33 posts tagged "Bumble and Bumble"
The hair behemoth that is Bumble and Bumble has, over the years, served as a training ground for many gifted stylists—some have remained and many have graduated to other salons. Just this year, Bumble-ite Michelle Snyder (a.k.a., Michelle Fiona) opened Barrow Salon in San Francisco, and as of last week, Coby Alcántar also branched out on her own, with the unveiling of Little Axe in Williamsburg (both logged time at West Village editorial darling Whittemore House, started by Bumble’s Victoria Hunter and Larry Raspanti, before going solo). Alcántar, who briefly (very briefly; six weeks total) left New York for the Bay Area (and a gig at Harper Paige) last year before circling her wagons back to the East Coast, had been dividing her time between working as an educator with Oribe and styling at Marie Robinson, an old friend since the Bumble days. But she found herself longing for a small-salon environment à la Whittemore, and when a space in Williamsburg came to her serendipitously through a close friend, the idea for Little Axe was quickly birthed.
Much like Alcántar herself, the shoebox-size space is chilled out and inviting.”I want to keep it simple and functional, with a few special touches, like a collection of old teacups and saucers that my mom and dad found at thrift shops,” she says. Besides Alcántar, there is Haley Ozell, the resident full-time colorist, and Paris-based stylist (and friend) Rubi Jones, who will be using the space to attend to the locks of her New York clients when she’s in town. The salon’s quirky name came courtesy of Alcántar’s husband, Cesar. “I really liked how the word little looks, so over a few nights of Cesar driving me crazy suggesting ‘little’ everything, Little Axe came out, and I said, ‘That’s it!’ And I love that my friend who designed our Web site also came up with the hashtag #ijustgotaxed. Ha!” Anyone who has had the good fortune to be on the receiving end of an Alcántar cut knows that her forte is tweaking classic styles (a bob, a crop, et cetera) in unexpected and inventive ways. “Recycling a classic is always good; it’s how you modify them that really makes you stand out,” she says. “But, really, I just want people to look good and like how they look.”
Little Axe Salon, 124 Bedford Avenue, Brooklyn, (718) 388-4700; www.littleaxesalon.com
“There’s a Fred-and-Ginger theme,” Peter Philips revealed backstage at Dries Van Noten, explaining the designer’s nod to the thirties-era dance duo. Uninformed, and you’d have been hard-pressed to pick up on it. “We wanted to avoid [the makeup] becoming too ballroom,” Philips explained while beefing up brows with Chanel Crayon Sourcils Sculpting Eyebrow Pencils and contouring lids with the dark brown and nude colors from its Les 4 Ombres Eyeshadow Quad in Prelude—which is why he chose to complement the gem-encrusted necklaces, brooches, and earrings models wore on the runway with something unexpected. Instead of opting for more retro-glamour elements—a red lip or a heavy lash, for example—Philips gave nine girls “a bejeweled ear,” using special-effects adhesive and a treasure trove of different-shaped crystals. “We tried it on the face, but we’ve already seen that. Topolino did it in the eighties,” he said of the gleaming mosaic embellishments, referencing the legendary Italian face painter who made metal facial studs and mixing mediums something of a signature. Keeping skin purposely matte to “enhance the sparkle” of those creative crystal cuffs, Philips treated complexions to Chanel’s Perfection Lumière Long-Wear Flawless Fluid Makeup before dusting on an allover application of its Poudre Universelle Libre.
“It’s basically women wearing men’s clothes, and the end is more Hollywood,” Paul Hanlon elaborated of Van Noten’s collection. “But with Dries, it always needs a contemporary feel,” he continued, dampening hair with Bumble and Bumble Styling Lotion and fashioning a side-slung part that segued into a marcel wave across models’ foreheads. True to form, Hanlon insisted on pulling the waves apart just before the show to ensure a messy “as though she had [the style] a week ago” feel. Perfection often lies in the imperfections when this hairstylist is concerned.
We are firm believers that to be a truly incredible colorist you have to be a bit mad. The great ones—our favorites ones—always are. And Bumble and Bumble’s lead university educator and all-around color wiz, Zoe Wiepert qualifies. Her Marilyn Monroe-swiped mantra? “Imperfection is beauty, madness is genius, and it’s better to be absolutely ridiculous than absolutely boring.” Since swapping out her original childhood dreams of making it big on Broadway for the high-paced worth of hair, the Buffalo, N.Y.-born colorist has mastered blondes, brunettes, and everything in between and has spent the last six years dreaming up ideas for Bumble as part of their Creative Collective. Her work has been featured in a slew of magazines, backstage at shows like Thakoon and Phillip Lim—and she’s picked up plenty of fans who swear by her precise painting abilities in the process. Here, the sprightly blonde shares some of her own local beauty favorites.
The Favorite Finger-Painting Haunt: Dolce
“I’m not going to lie; I get a mani/pedi ever single week. I’m a colorist, which means I always need change! I like going to Dolce on the Upper East Side and I bring my own polish every time. I mix my colors myself at home.”
1595 Third Ave., NYC, (212) 426-7022; www.dolcenyc.com
The Long Lashes Location: Bling Lash
“Eyelash extensions are my weakness; I need to get them done. I’ve been to most every place in the city, but I always go back to Bling because they are the quickest, the least expensive, and the most consistent.”
108 W. 14th St., Suite 201, NYC, (212) 675-2220; www.blinglash.com
The Daily Ritual: Organic Avenue
“No doubt! My close friend Bea at Bumble turned me onto it and I now can’t go a day without it. I have my coconut milk and green juice daily. I personally prefer to follow an organic and clean diet.”
See www.organicavenue.com for locations.
The Haute Hang Out: The Norwood
“It’s a great spot to be around creative, fun, talented New Yorkers. And they make a great drink.”
241 W. 14th St., NYC; norwoodclub.com.
The Quick Jaunt: Boston
“When I want to get out of New York I go to the Liberty Hotel in Boston. It’s one of the coolest hotels I’ve ever been to. It’s in an old jail and has great food and people.”
215 Charles St., Boston, (617) 224-4000; www.libertyhotel.com.
The Hair Routine: In-House Heroes
“I only do my hair once every four months; I like the beachy look! Plus I’m so complex with my formulations when I work, I need to keep me simple. Bumble Color Minded is the best product line for color-treated hair. It adds moisture, preserves color, and keeps all tones true while protecting from UVA, UVB, and styling tools. Then Bb Tonic—because I’m blond, I need the Tea Tree Oil for Moisture—Bb Quenching Complex on my ends to ensure the cuticle is sealed and stays smooth; its Surf Spray at my roots and Color Minded Styling Balm on my ends to add moisture.”
Available at www.bumbleandbumble.com.
The Fit Forum: Yoga Works
“The location on 86th Street is my spot. It’s so good. I either go there or to Soul Cycle, which is kind of killing me right now.”
See www.yogaworks.com for locations.
The Skincare Triple Threat: Personal Favorites
“I can’t live without my Estée Lauder Night Repair, plus my pure almond oil and cleansing with a Clarisonic brush.”
Available at www.esteelauder.com; available at www.clarisonic.com.
The Signature Scent: Tom Ford
“I either go au naturel or Tom Ford Bois Marocain.”
Available at www.neimanmarcus.com.
The Makeup Must-Haves: Prestige Picks
“I like Bobbi Brown foundation in a light bisque and Pot Rouge in Coral, MAC powder and lipstick in Pink Nouveau, and Estée Lauder’s Smoothing Cream Concealer, which absolutely does not crease and gives the perfect amount of coverage without being cakey.”
Available at www.bobbibrown.com; available at www.maccosmetics.com; available at www.esteelauder.com.
The Day Spa: Spa Castle
“If you haven’t been there yet, do it, it’s life changing. That’s all I can say.”
131-10 11th Ave., College Point, N.Y., (718) 939-6300; www.spacastleusa.com
The Secret Weapon: Dr. Bill Kestin
“[An opthamolic microsurgeon], he is a wizard for the eyes and skin. I go to him for Botox. He does very subtle work, so you still look like you. I take my mom there, too! Look him up; I promise you he is so worth it!”
See www.williamkestinmd.com for more information.
Anyone who’s ever gotten their hair colored knows that a freshly dyed shade of golden blond or bright red tends to go pear-shaped fairly soon after it leaves the salon. The major culprits for this degradation of brightness and opacity are UV exposure (read: brassiness), hard water (read: dullness), and heat styling (read: fading), all of which are sadly unavoidable. Or make that nearly unavoidable. In an effort to preserve their handiwork, the color team at Bumble and Bumble has helped develop a collection of products to keep color intact using a high-tech ingredient they’ve termed the Color Minded Color Preserving Complex. The dual polymer forms a netlike, watertight shield around individual strands to prevent washout and is at its strongest in a new five-minute professional treatment that promises to keep color in its original splendor for up to 40 shampoos. The Color Minded range is rounded out by a sulfate-free cleanser, sesame seed and jojoba oil-infused conditioner, UV protective lightweight styling cream, and a shine-promoting serum, so you can maintain the results of your service in the comfort of your own home. At a recent demonstration, we were amazed when we saw a series of before-and-after hair swatches. Coppers and blondes stayed as true as they were on the first day of the dye job weeks later—which will be no small feat as we head into the color-punishing days of summer.
Bumble and Bumble Color Minded collection, $29 to $32, www.bumbleandbumble.com.
I was once addicted to the Brazilian blow-out. There, I’ve said it. At the height of this addiction, the inhalation of potentially poisonous fumes seemed like a small price to pay to be free of unmanageable curls for three months. I’ve come around, though, and have stopped the treatments cold turkey, which has been great for my health; less so for my hair. To tame the mass of rebellious strands that have been my lifelong struggle, I resorted to side buns, braids and all manner of styles that held the promise of keeping my corkscrews at bay. Then I tried Bumble and bumble’s Concen-Straight Pro Treatment, which launched last Fall, with considerable success. The in-salon service uses the power of heat to activate a serum rich in pearl, tourmaline, Brazilian green malachite, and sapphire powders, which combine to loosen the bonds that give hair its natural curve. Polylysine, a naturally occurring amino acid, is then applied to refine the bonds into looser shapes. My one complaint? I had to book regular appointments to keep up its effects (inherent laziness is a hard thing to overcome). So you can imagine my delight when the New York-based brand launched an at-home version of the treatment. Its new Concen-straight Smoothing Treatment relies on the same process as its professional predecessor: you shampoo your hair, saturate it with the active serum, let it work it’s magic for a half hour, rinse it out, and then blowdry following up with an allover flat-ironing session to lock the straight style in place. Afterward, you’re supposed to wait 24 hours before washing and then relish in a frizz-free, straighter style—which sort of happened on a recent trial run. When I washed my hair following the recommended wait time, my curls did in fact return. To be fair, they were looser and after a quick once-over with the blow-dryer, they settled into a pretty, wavy texture way more quickly than usual. But the results are not as dramatic as the formaldehyde-free salon version. At a fraction of the price of the original, though, the at-home formula is a quick and easy way to at least relax typically tight curls—and for two whole months at that.