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April 19 2014

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9 posts tagged "Carven"

“Forties Grunge,” Backstage at Carven

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carven-crop“She spends more time on her art than her hair,” backstage pro James Pecis said of the Dada-collecting intellectual who inspired the look. The forties influence seen in the clothes was reflected by way of a single marcel wave—created by bending a section at eye level around the barrel of a curling iron. L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Super Dust was used throughout for “traction” (the under-layers were stitched down using a large upholstery needle and elastic string), and mousse was pressed in at the crown to cancel any flyaways. The finished look was “forties grunge,” Pecis explained.

In contrast to the roughed-up strands, the brows were shiny and pristine. Makeup artist Nina Haverkamp painted a transparent Kryolan gel onto arches before topping it with clear lip gloss. Cheekbones were lightly coated with Rosebud Salve, and lids were washed with a shimmery taupe to mimic the color that often appears due to lack of sleep. Trust me, I don’t need eyeshadow to re-create that.

Flashback Friday: Pretty in Pink

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niki-taylorFlashback Friday is a feature on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.

The Model: Niki Taylor

The Moment: Sweet and Smoky

The Motivation: Ever since Guillaume Henry sent oversize “teddy bear-textured” pink coats down the runway at Carven’s Fall 2013 show, the fashion set fully embraced the pastel hue. But when it comes to wearing such a bold color on your body, how to plan your makeup? You can never go wrong with red lipstick, but for a look that’s slightly more unexpected, take inspiration from this early-nineties shot of Niki Taylor lensed by Arthur Elgort. Sure, the gold jewelry is gaudy and the shadow is extended a little too close to her brows, but strip away all the excess and those luscious lashes and perfectly nude lips direct attention to the outfit—which, in the case of a rose-colored jacket, is always a plus.

Photo: Arthur Elgort for Vogue Italia, 1991, courtesy of www.supermodelobsession.tumblr.com

Let Dieters Eat Cake, a Beauty Tutorial Set to Beat-Boxing, and More

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Have your cake and eat it, too: It’s not the official motto for the Marie Antoinette Diet (MAD, for short), but it should be. The plan that focuses on portion control and meal timing suggests scarfing on macarons and other sweets for breakfast and sticking to a light, “au naturel” dinner—like soup, a favorite of the French queen with a 23-inch waist. [The Daily Beast]

Brace yourself: Thirty-five eyeliner experiments and twenty lip tips packed into a less-than-two-minutes-video—all set to beat-boxing (a tactic also employed by Giorgio Armani Beauty). Makeup artist Ellis Faas and I Love You magazine present the step-by-step process for fast learners. [I Love You]

Many a model and celeb headed to the chop shop in 2013, but longtime hair trendsetter Jennifer Aniston may have started the reprise of hair extensions. [E! Online]

With hints of sandalwood, freesia, and sweet pea, Carven’s new L’Eau de Toilette is the brand’s light alternative to the original Le Parfum. The video campaign, where the spritz is compared to “a heated terrace that turns winter into summer,” is equally as fresh. [The Cut]

Carven Alters Its Original Olfactory Silhouette

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Creative director of Carven, Guillaume Henry, breathed new life into the storied house beginning in 2009 and put a fresh olfactory stamp on the brand by launching Le Parfum in 2013—the label’s first fragrance in sixty-seven years. The company waited nearly a millisecond in comparison to its last stretch between scents, as the follow-up, L’Eau de Toilette, is set to launch exclusively at Saks Fifth Avenue in March. Described as “different from the original, but not in opposition,” the spring-y blend contains three of the same key notes: sweet pea, white hyacinth, and sandalwood (with sweet pea now being used at the top and white hyacinth at the heart). Perfumer Francis Kurkdjian imagined the eau “like a lightweight piece of clothing…as easy to wear as Le Parfum but made of a different fabric, probably more airy.” He replaced mandarin blossom with transparent lemon and peony notes; swapped jasmine and ylang ylang for soft freesia and wisteria; and reworked the woody base to include white musk and amber for a more delicate dry down. The signature color scheme inspired by Madame Carven’s Ma Griffe striped gown also remains intact, but is used in reverse when compared with the previous scent (featuring a white box and pistachio-colored juice). Model Brynja Jónbjarnardóttir will continue to serve as the face, adding yet another familiar aspect to the fragrance. Change is never easy, but imagine this bright and elegant blend like your go-to dress from seasons past: Take it to the tailor, make a few choice alterations, and it suddenly feels brand new and better than ever.

Carven Le Parfum: “No Tricks,” All Treat

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carvenRumors of a new Carven fragrance under Guillaume Henry’s creative direction started swirling in 2010, just a year after he took over design duties. For other brands, it might have seemed like a rather quick entrée into beauty, but not for Carven, whose ineffaceable founder had already carved out a formidable fragrance niche with the best-selling Ma Griffe, which was introduced in 1946. Fast-forward sixty-seven years, and the storied French house’s latest coup, Carven Le Parfum, is scheduled to touch down stateside in a few short weeks.

“The brief was very clear because I think the direction Guillaume is giving to the brand is very clear,” famed nose Francis Kurkdjian explained at a launch event in May. “As a perfumer, I just had to follow the path.” That path necessitated something very urban and very Parisian, but also very international, according to Kurkdjian, who set out to create something for “a fresh young woman, [who is] charismatic and very charming.” Icelandic beauty Brynja Jónbjarnardóttir embodies that sentiment in the perfume’s ad campaign, while Kurkdjian’s delicate blend of mandarin blossom, white hyacinth, sweet pea, and jasmine notes, with a subtle yet unforgettable dry down of sandalwood and Indonesian patchouli, seal the deal olfactorily. “A beautiful scent is just a scent that smells good. There are no tricks. You look at the bottle, you look at the ad, and it’s all very coherent,” Kurkdjian insists, pointing out that one of this particular scent’s big selling points is the faint trace that lingers in the wake of the wearer. “What’s important is the trail, because [Carven] is a brand that you remember”—something he can personally attest to. “Carven is very dear to me,” he reveals. “One of the first perfumes that was given to me when I was 16 years old was Vetiver by Carven—that with [Dior's] Eau Sauvage are the two basic fragrances that every man had to have in his wardrobe.” Now there’s something equally iconic for the rest of us.

Carven Le Parfum, available July 17 at Saks Fifth Avenue stores and www.saks.com.

Photo: Courtesy of Carven