284 posts tagged "Chanel"
British aristocrat and model Mary Charteris blinged out the hair above her eyes for the London shows. This particular beauty move took us right back to Chanel’s Fall 2012 collection and Peter Philips’ extraordinary, mineral-encrusted eyebrow art. While we love a naturally thick set à la Cara Delevingne, this It girl’s sparkly arches certainly got our attention.
Beauty Nostalgia is a column on Beauty Counter in which we ask influencers, tastemakers, and some of our favorite industry experts to wax poetic on the sticks, salves, and sprays that helped shape who they are today.
The pro: Kara Yoshimoto Bua, Chanel makeup artist
The product: “Every day when I was a child, I watched my mom sit with a beautiful hand mirror in front of an antique Japanese vanity and paint her face. I gave her a hard time for taking so long, and I told her she didn’t need makeup. My mom is exquisitely beautiful—like a Japanese doll and a true artist. I studied her technique as she prepared her “canvas” by shaping her eyes with shadow and then carefully applying her perfect cake eyeliner using a small pointed paintbrush. It was a ritual, the way she got ready for the day. It was the way a woman took care of herself and a meditation. She wasn’t looking at herself in a vain way, but in an artist’s way.
As a teenager in San Francisco, I went to shows with artists, musicians, and DJs…all the punk rockers, new wavers, death rockers, glam rockers, mods, and skaters. Everyone had major style…it was the underground eighties. That’s when I was introduced to black eyebrow pencil. I channeled my mom’s style but had my own technique. I would take a lighter to warm up the hard eyebrow pencil and draw the perfect black line across the top lash line, carefully pointing the end. The liner would harden and stay on for days! You would never catch me without my liner. That was my makeup style: black eyeliner, nothing else. I no longer have that pencil, but my new version is Chanel Stylo Yeux Waterproof Long-Lasting Eyeliner in Noir Intense.”
“To get liquid eyeliner right, I always look at the eyes straight on—I never apply makeup to a closed eye. I make two dots, one where I want the line to start and another where I want the line to end, and then I draw a straight line. It’s all about connecting the dots.”
Every face painter has his or her own technique for creating the perfect swoosh with liquid liner—a product that can trip up even the steadiest of hands. I’ve heard of penciling on a stencil before tracing over the top with eyeliner, crafting the shape in three parts, and even using a credit card to nail a sharp edge. Leave it to this master of maquillage, however, to make achieving the often-finicky flick as easy as a kindergarten worksheet. With strong, graphic eyes appearing on multiple couture runways (Chanel and Giambattista Valli) thus far, it seems studying up on the classic look isn’t a bad idea. Consider this your Cliffs Notes.
Makeup artist Peter Philips confessed that this season’s beauty look was built from the ground up—literally. Those hand-embroidered sneakers by Massaro conveyed such a new attitude in themselves that playing with iridescence in terms of makeup became self-evident. “I wanted to do something that stood out with lightness but at the same time was elegant and couture,” he said. Mission accomplished. Philips started with Chanel Perfection Lumière Velvet foundation (launching in March) to create a matte finish, “because all the shine had to come from the eyes,” he noted, and dabbed a touch of powder blush in Espiègle on cheeks and across the chin. Then came a stroke of black Ligne Graphique liquid liner and ample coats of mascara, which tempered the hologram glitter in various sizes that he applied under the otherwise unadorned lower lashes. “The eyeliner makes it chic and iconic, but then you’ve got the sparkle that feels relaxed and fresh yet creates magic,” he noted. To finish it off, Philips reached for Rouge Coco Shine lipstick in Satisfaction (out next month). “It’s a great color, because if models’ lips are naturally too red, it tones them down; if they are too pale, it brings in just the right amount of color,” Philips explained. For a bit of discreet sparkle on nails, he opted for Le Vernis in Frisson, a rosy iridescent lacquer.
Asked about his inspirations, hair guru Sam McKnight reached for his iPhone and fished out a few sketches Karl Lagerfeld sent over a couple weeks back. “He specifically said he wanted something kind of undone and asymmetrical.” McKnight’s solution: extensions that matched each model’s hair color attached to headbands (shown below). The faux strands were flatironed to stand at attention, creating the impression that the girls had just tied up their hair and left the spiky ends out. “You could say the hair had to correspond to the sneakers, too,” he said. “It had to capture an attitude, it had to be a little sporty, but it had to be a look—for couture, it couldn’t be nothing.” Ultimately, he quipped, “what it became is a version of nothing.” Not exactly much ado about nothing—the finished product was as fantastical as the footwear.