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July 31 2014

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5 posts tagged "Charles Worthington"

“Sci-chedelic” Stepford Wives, Backstage At Erdem

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Gone was the Victoriana-goth girl that ruled the mood boards backstage at Erdem for Fall. In her place: “otherworldly creatures,” according to face painter Andrew Gallimore, who set to work sculpting a “much brighter, more luminous lady” for Spring.

“Sci-chedelic” is the neologism that was being bandied about between hair and makeup artists in reference to a certain sci-fi psychedelia that informed the beauty effort. “They’re supposed to be like an army of clones,” Gallimore explained, applying a base of MAC Mineralize Moisture Foundation and a touch of its Prep + Prime Finishing Powder. “It’s a bit Stepford Wife-y,” he continued, working its Strobe Cream into the nose bridge, cheeks, and the cupid’s bow of lips to create a futuristic luminosity. Curling the lashes and brushing brows upward, Gallimore slicked mouths with MAC Lipmix in Mid-Tone Nude before dabbing just the center with its Pigment in Neo-Orange to allow for a punchy pop of color.

“The whimsical, romantic Erdem girl has evolved into a tougher, more androgynous woman,” Charles Worthington artistic director Marc Trinder agreed, sculpting a clean, strong bun for the occasion. Coating strands with the brand’s new Salon Secrets Elixir, Trinder partially dried them so they retained a bit of a greasy, wet finish. Fashioning a deep side part, he proceeded to gather lengths into a low ponytail at the nape of the neck that resulted in a tight, twisted chignon. Worthington’s Front Row Mirror Dazzle Shine Spray and a fat blush brush swept away any lingering flyaways.

Photo: Marcus Tondo / GoRunway.con

Nineties Brows—Without The Awkward Regrowth Phase—Backstage At Roksanda Ilincic

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Roksanda Ilincic’s Spring collection may have had a slight fifties influence to it, but she had her beauty team focus on an entirely different decade. “We went with a nineties, grungy look,” hairstylist Marc Trinder said, focusing on “hung-over Kurt Cobain hair” that he air-dried with his fingers, coating strands with “a lot” of Charles Worthington Frontrow Serum for piecey-ness. Makeup artist Lucia Pica drew inspiration from that other grunge icon: Kate Moss. “The girls are supposed to look more magazine grunge than street grunge—more Steven Meisel than Corrine Day,” Pica elaborated, creating a slightly warm base with St. Tropez Naturals Radiance Self-Tan for Face topped off with a soft yellow, peachy flush courtesy of MAC Blush in Dusty Coral and a muted yellow Chromacake. Then things got really interesting. To capture those quintessential nineties brows, “the skinny round ones we all used to have when we were younger, that we’re lucky grew back,” Pica broke out some clever makeup trickery. Rather than maniacally pluck out individual hairs until nothing but a thin arch remained (commence high school flashbacks now), she brushed a bit of MAC Lip Erase through roots to take them down a bit before drawing in a half moon shape with MAC Brow Pencil and blending it for a diffused finish. The effect isn’t quite as severe as the original, but it also isn’t as permanent; if only we knew then what we know now.

Photo: GoRunway.com

Erdem, The Haircare Line

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We can pinpoint the first time we stopped clicking through our Style.com slideshow, gasped, and made an “I need that” mental note about an Erdem Moralioglu collection. It was the designer’s Spring 2009 show, replete with all of its lacy loveliness and Edwardian collars, that made us fast—and resilient—fans (looks 12 and 18 at yesterday’s Spring show elicited the same reaction, albeit in person). Spring ’09 was an a-ha moment for Charles Worthington, too, apparently, as that was the British hair hero’s first show with the designer—a collaboration that’s now in its fifth season. Worthington promptly enlisted Moralioglu to help create his well-loved Frontrow collection, which launched in the U.K. two years ago and which we were introduced to for the first time backstage yesterday. It includes standouts like the Refresh & Revive Dry Shampoo, Rough & Tousled Salt Spray, and the Soft & Smooth Dry Conditioner, a unique product that can revamp any day-old style. Most impressive, though, is a clever packaging gimmick that’s sure to impress Americans when the line hits the U.S. next year: Each bottle contains a peel-back label that reveals an Erdem-designed print underneath. It’s not one of his off-the-shoulder, pleated dresses, of course, but it’s still pretty neat.

Photo: Courtesy of Charles Worthington

“Pastel Tans” And Layered Lips, Backstage At Erdem

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Astute audience members at Erdem Moralioglu‘s show of cool blue floral prints may have noticed a subtle detail as Anais Pouliot and co. walked the box-shaped runway with shoulders, décolletage, and necks bared: Their skin also curiously glowed with the icy tint. “It’s a pastel tan,” St. Tropez’ Nichola Joss said, coining the term for a new skin finish she’s been introducing here at the London collections. Models are sprayed with St. Tropez’ Wash-Off tanner in mobile booths for a faint sun-kissed effect but mostly for “polish and dimension,” which creates a base for a handful of the brand’s new Illuminators. “I’m using a silver and a blue,” Joss said, buffing and layering the two hues into limbs with a specialized mitt for a uniform finish.

Coiffing legend Charles Worthington placed his own label on the beauty look. “It’s South of France chic,” he said, interpreting the designer’s In the Mood for Love inspiration with an “architectural and glamorous” ponytail. Spritzing hair with Charles Worthington Front Row Volumizing Spray at the root, Worthington’s lead stylist, Marc Trinder, slathered lengths with its Heat Protector Spray before gathering them into a high ponytail, securing with an elastic and “tonging” the style (wrapping it around a curling iron, for those of you who don’t speak session stylist) to give it a little “bounce and swish” as the girls walked. The top was left deliberately soft and fluffy, an homage to an old picture of Chloë Sevigny that Moralioglu had shared with Worthington.

As for those red lips, makeup artist Andrew Gallimore applied MAC’s forthcoming Lipstick in Scarlet Ibis and matted it down with its Prep + Prime Translucent powder before patting on a layer of MAC Pigment in Red to provide a “velvet, rose petal” effect. Brows were brushed up with MAC Brow Set in Mink for fullness while lashes were coated in mascara for a fluttery finish. To complement Joss’ dose of luminosity, Gallimore added his own bit of shine in the form of Lucas’ Papaw ointment, which he dabbed onto lips and on top of cheekbones.

Photo: GoRunway.com

Making Big Beautiful, And More…

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If you’ve tired of shows like Fox’s More to Love or NBC’s The Biggest Loser, which seem to suggest that if you try hard enough you can be thin, give Lifetime’s Drop Dead Diva a whirl. The increasingly popular show details the life of a rail-thin model who finds herself living in the body of a plus-size lawyer and is poised to ignite a new discourse about diet, weight, and beauty. Says its creator: “If you want to lose weight, fine. Just don’t hate yourself if you’re larger than average.” How…refreshing. [NYT]

Say what you will about MisShapes’ frontwoman Leigh Lezark; the shiny onyx bob she’s been rocking forever is deserving of that IMG contract—and a new role as haircare brand ambassador, as the case may be. Charles Worthington has pegged the DJ to front his new line, aptly named Front Row. [The Cut]

International Cosmetic Surgery (ICS) has partnered with Gilt Groupe, bringing its Skin Therapie line of high-potency active ingredients to the invitation-only fashion and luxury site. Nothing complements discounted Dior like antiaging products. (Wrinkles and a Cannage tote don’t mix.) [WWD]

Photo: Stephen Lovekin/Getty Images for Max Azria