5 posts tagged "Christian Dior Couture"
Backstage before the Dior show, hair maestro Guido Palau noted that Raf Simons’ forward-thinking Spring 2014 couture show required him to keep things rather pared down. “Raf really wanted a nod to being now,” he explained. “There is no reference to another era, so he wanted something modern and nonreferential. It’s not what you would imagine from couture hair, in that it is not elaborate.” With that in mind, Palau devised “simple hair with a messy side part,” which he created using Redken Shine Flash 02 Glistening Mist to amp up luster and, in turn, reduce volume. “It’s very real,” he concluded.
As for fingertips, manicurist Elsa Deslandes was the first to get her hands on the new Diorlisse Abricot #800 (Snow Pink) lacquer. “When you put it on, it’s like a collagen injection for the nails. One coat makes them appear perfectly curved, soft, and smooth,” she said. Deslandes topped the pale polish with a single, high-shine layer of transparent Gel Coat. “It’s really thick, so it magnifies the shine and it works on any other color. It’s the comeback of the shiny nail!” she said, laughing.
In creating the makeup statement with Simons, face painter Pat McGrath said that they very quickly determined that the strongest look was one that “conveyed perfect grooming without being overdone. It’s very much about raw glamour with very natural skin and a bare, simple face with a strong, fiery red lip.” McGrath prepped models’ faces with primer (like the house’s Pore Minimizer) and perfected complexions with foundation and touches of highlighter (try Diorskin Nude foundation and Skinflash Radiance Booster Pen), before turning her attention to the lips—opting either for a flesh-hued balm (such as Addict Lip Glow) to enhance models’ mouths or a mix of two crimson lipsticks before sealing the color with balm (to re-create the look, use Rouge Dior in #999 and #844 Trafalgar). To complement the lip story, McGrath readied the eyes with a primer and then swept a rusty-bronze eye shadow (a cornerstone shade in the forthcoming 5-Color Transat Edition Sundeck palette) over the top. “Burnishing the lids brings out that natural eye color we all love,” she explained. A stroke of a plumping serum on the lashes (like Diorshow Maximizer), followed by a coat of brown mascara, and they were done. “It’s a super-clean, graphic face—everyone is enhanced and the color really pops; it’s like an illustration,” observed Stella Tennant backstage. As one of the “nude lip” models, she noted she’d considered going back to McGrath and “begging for a mouth.” But then she decided to stay put. “Pat knows best,” she said. Seeing as the Queen recently recognized her beauty skills, we’d have to agree.
The international fashion circuit has decamped to Russia for the start of Moscow fashion week, which means a whole new showcase of local sartorial talent is under way. Still, there was a hint of Paris floating around backstage at the Domus Academy Collective Show, where makeup artists took a page out of Pat McGrath’s Dior Couture handbook, adhering crystals to lacquered red lips. Imitation is the highest form of flattery, as they say. Which version do you like better?
Throwback Thursdays is a new feature on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Yfke Sturm
The Moment: Shorn Locks
The Motivation: While making the cut is nothing new (see Audrey Hepburn, Mia Farrow, Twiggy, etc.), it has quickly gained popularity in the past few months. From Karlie Kloss’ Fall bob and Edie Campbell’s black shag that inspired a runway’s worth of imitations at Marc Jacobs, to Ulyana Sergeenko’s Dior Couture homage pixie, we haven’t been hurting for chop-shop inspiration. But this 1999 Paris Vogue snap of model Yfke Sturm still jumped out at us. Something about the nineties-era Dutch stunner’s micro-fringe and razor-trimmed ends paired with her icy blond color and pastel lilac eye shadow is exciting in a whole new, old way. Save it in the binder of tearsheets you plan on taking with you to your stylist in the coming months.
Last season, Pat McGrath revealed a little-known fact about newly named Christian Dior creative director Raf Simons: The king of minimalism’s girl “loves makeup.” For Spring, that affinity resulted in hand-beaded eyelids that had been treated with colored cream pigments in elongated shapes—a form of adornment Simons apparently liked so much, he ordered it up again for couture yesterday in Paris, this time leaving the lips to do the talking.
Lining models’ mouths with a palette of lip pencils in fuchsia and red, McGrath slicked on Dior Addict Gloss in Diablotine #643 and Princess #553 to serve as a veritable glue for the application of individual Swarovski crystals, which were placed—one by one—in painstaking succession. Brows were groomed, often bleached, and filled back in with a tawny tone, while lids were given a soft, pastel gray contour through the crease courtesy of Diorshow Mono Eyeshadow in Grège #726 as well as the added drama of a black cat-eye. The simplicity of Guido Palau’s gelled-down pixie-cut wigs—an homage, apparently, to one of Monsieur Dior’s favorite in-house models and Audrey Hepburn, whom Simons mentioned as an inspiration for the show—prevented the glitz from becoming too costumey, something we never thought we’d say about pout bedazzling. But all bets are off when McGrath and Palau join forces.
A curious retro beauty movement has gained steam over the past few weeks, as a collective homage to old Hollywood hairstyles seems to have taken hold of the runway and the red carpet. Pin-tucked faux bobs were spotted backstage at Christian Dior Couture last week, and then there’s the uptick in marcel waves with both Katherine Heigl and Keira Knightley sporting side parts and soft bends that segued into low chignons last night at the Paris premiere of One for the Money and the U.K. premiere of A Dangerous Method, respectively. You can chalk it up to awards season being in full swing, and we couldn’t be happier to see classic coiffure back in the spotlight. You too?