58 posts tagged "Christian Dior"
It could be said that fashion is as much a study in mimicry as it is in inventing something new. The cannage pattern on the Lady Dior handbag was inspired by the canework on the gold Napoleon III-style concert chairs that were routinely set up for Christian Dior’s Haute Couture shows in his salon. And similar to how the French house channeled elements of furniture into a purse, resident perfumer François Demachy replicated the scent inside the aforementioned accessory for his latest addition to the Privée collection: Cuir Cannage. “I wanted it to smell of leather, but there is also [a hint of] lipstick, tissues, and imagination,” he explained of the fragrance. The resident nose combined signature floral notes (like orange blossom, jasmine, rose, and iris) with raw materials, such as birch wood, cade oil (obtained from a juniper tree), and the leaves of the labdanum plant, to produce the “burned,” leather effect. In addition, Demachy relied on modern science and an exclusive new molecule to achieve the unique leather accord. The result of this project, which the perfumer refers to as “recreation” rather than work, is nothing short of an instant olfactory classic.
Peter Philips spent his whole weekend single-handedly cutting seventy pairs of silver adhesive eyeliner that he used on the Dior Couture runway. And just hours before the show began, he received word that the house had worked out a way to produce them. (Look for them on-counter around the holidays.) “The collection explored contradictions, so we wanted to keep it pretty and pure. I just wanted to add one element that was highly contrasting and artificial,” he explained. Metallic liner emerged as the ideal counterpoint to the mirror-and-orchid set. Philips calls it the “empty eye”—meaning no mascara—bolstered by a little white kohl to fade out the lower lashes and a sweep of yellow and white shadows from the forthcoming Candy Choc palette under well-groomed brows. To even out the base, Philips reached for Dior’s new Star Foundation (for drier complexions, he used Capture), followed by a combo of Dior Blush in Rose Corolle and Starlight on the cheekbones (available internationally in October), and polished off pouts with Rouge Dior lipstick in Trompe L’Oeil (a peachy nude). Nails, too, were kept short, neat, and nude, with one coat of gel polish in Muguet followed by a layer of Dior Glow. “She looks like a fragile flower but with historical and futuristic crosscurrents,” he said. “When she moves, she catches the light.”
For hair, the look was natural and unforced. “It’s fresh and modern without reference to any past,” noted Guido Palau backstage. “Raf Simons’ Dior woman has put her clothes on and [needn't] over-bother with her hair.” Palau employed Redken Pillow Proof dry shampoo for texture, added a few extensions, and let the parts fall where they may. “We’re entering a transitional time in beauty where things seem to be much simpler. Women can’t complain anymore that they can’t do it,” he noted, adding with a smile, “which means there are no excuses anymore!”
In preparation for last night’s Dior International It Girl event in Paris, where style-savvy social media darlings gathered from all over the globe to toast the new Addict Fluid Stick and Vernis range, Hannah Bronfman teamed up with the house’s glam squad—international makeup artist Violette and newly crowned international nail designer, Anatole Rainey. Together, they crafted her look from head to perfectly polished fingertips (one of which was painstakingly bejeweled with Swarovski crystals) before Bronfman spun the night away in the DJ booth and on the dance floor. Here, her beauty play-by-play.
Rainey offered up his forthcoming favorite polish while he worked: Sailor, a blue lacquer from the limited-edition Transat collection (on counters in April). “To me, that’s the new red. It goes with everything, but it’s very chic, very Dior.” His one no-no? “Matching your outfit to your nails. They need to stand out, like an accessory.”
“She’s wearing a spectacular yellow top with hints of pink, so we decided to go with the pink,” Rainey explained. Make that nearly half the pinks in the Dior Vernis Couture Color collection. He painted each nail a different shade, creating a soft ombré that culminated in Mirage (#338) on Bronfman’s right hand and a shower of Swarovski crystals on the tip of her left ring finger.
“When I see Hannah I feel like she is cool and young and fresh, so she doesn’t need much makeup,” said Violette.
The face painter amped up the fun factor with the Dior Addict Fluid Stick in Pandore and Mona-Lisette. “I love things that are in between, it makes a more surprising color,” she said. “[Pandore] is bright without any heaviness,” she said, dabbing a few finishing touches on Bronfman’s lips. “It’s beautiful on Hannah’s skin, but this shade is truly universal.” She swears by the formula’s holding power, too: “When I tested this, I literally ran from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. with only one quick touch-up.”
To keep the focus on the lips, Violette kept the rest of Bronfman’s face quite sparse, brushing a little taupe-gray eyeshadow over her lids. “You want it to look natural, not like makeup,” she said.
“Sometimes I get nervous, but for some reason I’m not today,” said Bronfman in her suite at the Hôtel Marignan. As for the evening’s musical lineup, she said, “I’m just going to go and see who’s there, what the crowd’s like, and come up with something. I usually play a good mix of things, like maybe some oldies and some new dance-y songs.”
For her hour-long DJ turn, Bronfman said, “I really wanted something to stand out a little bit.” Thus, a strapless yellow top was the perfect fit. “I thought that putting the accent on my face would be really nice while I’m standing behind a big black computer!”
When Anatole Rainey, the freshly appointed Dior International Nail Designer, first came to Paris, it was to learn French. As fate would have it, he found himself behind the scenes at fashion shows and on shoots, putting his hobby—painting—to work for the likes of Cate Blanchett, Keira Knightley, Kate Moss, and Gisele Bündchen. “I just started helping out a manicurist friend and it kind of turned into a job,” he explained with characteristic modesty.
And not just any job. Today, Rainey splits his time between his native London and Paris, where he brings his considerable talents to Dior’s ever-expanding line of lacquers. “The relaunch of the Dior Vernis polish is exciting because I love color, shine, and shading. It has the finish of a gel, and the adhering power of techno polymer glass technology,” he said, bringing it all back down to earth with, “[This new formula] really grabs onto the nail.”
Rainey’s not giving anything away, of course, but already the limited-edition Nail Artistry Box (launching April 1 in Europe) makes it possible to paint Monsieur Dior’s favorite symbols—such as stars and clovers—onto the nail. (One of his favorite looks for summer: sailor blue stars on an otherwise transparent nude manicure.) “Some people love 3-D nail art, but I like to interpret it in a slightly more chic way. It’s more graphic and simple,” he said, adding, “Let’s just say there’s more to come than nail polish.”
This season, makeup artists reached for all sorts of unconventional beauty tools—dental floss at Anthony Vaccarello, liquid latex at Dior, and feathers at Alexander McQueen—but you’ll never guess where makeup artist Vincent Oquendo nabbed the star-shaped toppings he sprinkled on lids for the March issue of Italian ELLE. While a magician of maquillage never spills his best-kept secrets, he did give me a hint: It’s a sweet-smelling place you go to treat yourself and stray from your diet.