48 posts tagged "Christian Dior"
It’s only been a year since Raf Simons took the reins at the house of Dior—which has amounted to two ready-to-wear shows, two Couture shows, one Resort presentation, and one Pre-Fall outing so far. Yet in that short amount of time, he and his trusted backstage team of Pat McGrath and Guido Palau have collaborated on a rather impressive beauty highlight reel. Neon lashes, chrome liquid liners, Swarovski crystal-studded lips, and sleek strands that defy the traditional conception of runway hair have helped make Simons’ shows a must-see part of the Paris calendar.
“What people don’t know is that when we do shows, we really have to find the right woman,” McGrath said, speaking to the new Dior archetype that can pull off the dazzling metallic mouths she created using a special theatrical glue and three different highly reflective pigments for Simon’s Fall Couture show, his third for the brand. “She’s steeped in Diorness, but also very futuristic,” Palau interjected of the character they had collectively helped build while describing the Redken Hardwear 16 Super Strong Gel-slicked, low-lying wrapped knots he shellacked straight back for the presentation. “[Raf] doesn’t want to re-create the couture era. He’s very forward thinking,” Palau continued. If this is what progress looks like, we’re all in.
“It’s a mouth in full bloom,” Pat McGrath told our man on the ground in Monaco this weekend backstage at Christian Dior’s Cruise show. “It’s more intensely pink,” the makeup artist said, referring to the bold fuchsia color she revived for Resort following Fall’s blurred-around-the-edges iteration of the same color. Looking for a “lightness of skin” and, more specifically, a “lightness of eye—lighter than the ready-to-wear [show]“—McGrath diffused a pearly white, shimmering pewter shadow from the inner corners of the eyes toward the temples, rather than return to the precise liquid chrome pen she preferred back in March. “Raf [Simons] said he wanted to ‘feel the girl’—really see her beauty,” she continued, keeping brows groomed and skin slightly sporty with highlights on the cheekbones.
In an effort to keep things from becoming too “over-referenced,” Guido Palau went with the “sophisticated simplicity” of a slicked-down, center-parted ponytail gathered low at the nape of the neck. “There was a future thought,” he admitted, explaining that Simons did mention the 1997 sci-fi flick Gattaca, but without the theatrical undertones. A damp, piece-y texture through the lengths ensured that strands registered as undeniably modern.
As we reported earlier today on Style.com, Stella McCartney has been awarded with the prestigious Officer of the Order of the British Empire (OBE) title. To receive the honor, which has already been bestowed on designers like Stephen Jones, Sarah Burton, and Dame Vivienne Westwood, McCartney wore a beautiful, crisp navy suit—and a gorgeous veiled headpiece that left a similarly hued cast over her forehead. Veils have made the fashion rounds a lot of late, and we’re hard-pressed to assume that McCartney hasn’t taken notice. Both Raf Simons at Dior and Giambattista Valli sent them down their Fall 2012 Couture runways—and more recently, we spotted the cute, clip-in accessory at Louis Vuitton’s Pre-Fall collection. But we’re partial to Stella’s Wallis Simpson-inspired hair-turned-face accessory for its vintage appeal, the bejeweled barrette she affixed to it, and the way it perfectly complements her tailored ensemble—a good illustration of the style sensibility that earned her the esteemed distinction in the first place. They don’t just give those awards away, you know.
Ulyana Sergeenko answered the question of how she would be dealing with the grow-out from the platinum-blonde dye job she debuted in January with a simple Instagram this afternoon—and then another courtesy of her fellow fashion comrade Elena Perminova. The answer: She wouldn’t. The Russian street-style-star-turned-designer is back to brunette after cutting off her flaxen strands entirely and embracing one of Guido Palau’s midcentury Dior Couture pixie cuts instead. And you know what? It looks great on her. The gamine look isn’t all that easy to pull off, but Sergeenko is managing it just fine, as far as we’re concerned. Add another one to the season’s short-hair handbook. Thoughts on her drastic trim?
The idea floating around backstage at Christian Dior was the notion of “the ultimate Dior woman, seen through a futuristic eye,” according to Pat McGrath—or, more specifically, Raf Simons’ eye. “He wanted to play with the mouths and make them smaller,” McGrath explained of the designer’s request for “faded lips,” which she obliged with a deep fuchsia stain that was blurred around the edges with a finger-pressing of foundation for a “blooming rose” effect. “There’s a nod to the fifties,” she continued of the collection, which also happened to boast Simons’ particular brand of forward thinking that requires a dose of the here, the now, and the what’s to come. How best to translate that into makeup terms? With a classic cat-eye in an unexpected color and shape, shown here in liquid silver, which was not only drawn across the upper lashes into a flick, but also beneath the lower lash line, and in a small stroke on the inside corner toward the crease as well. “It pronounced the eyes more and gave them a new elegance,” McGrath said of the technique.
Guido Palau was hoping to bring an infusion of newness into the hair as well, which had its roots in fifties couture. “Raf wanted more of an uptown woman who was caught in the rain, but we didn’t want it to feel old,” Palau explained, giving the structured, wig-wrap-turned-twist silhouette a very Fall 2013 wet texture with Redken Control Addict 28 High Control Hairspray and its forthcoming Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine serum. “I still wanted it to feel elegant,” he noted of the saturated style. Done, and done.