19 posts tagged "Cle de PEau"
And…breathe. Fashion month is officially over, which for many of us means the end of a three-week trek around Europe, plenty of jet lag, aching feet—and skin that has been put through the wringer; there’s nothing like air travel, late nights, and early call times to bring out the worst in your complexion. Compounding this is the fact that we’re coming up on a seasonal transition. Despite last night’s lashing of snow and rain on the East Coast, the first day of spring is just two weeks away, which should mean a whole new host of concerns, from dryness and flaking to redness and irritation. So it goes without saying that your skin could use a little R&R right about now, and luckily there are plenty of skin savers just hitting the market to help you repair, renew, and—fingers crossed—relax.
Clé de Peau Eye Contour Balm Anti-Wrinkle
This extra-creamy, soothing lotion contains pure retinol, super-bio-hyaluronic acid (an intense moisturizer), and an illuminating complex to tighten fine lines, rehydrate, and prevent the signs of aging around the eyes. It also happens to be the perfect base for concealer, and can be applied on top of makeup, too, for an instant pick-me-up.
A Pore Thing
Darphin Ideal Resource Micro-Refining Smoothing Fluid
The fast-absorbing, hydrating ingredients in this silky formula are ideal for those of us with combination skin. Mattifying mineral extracts work to visibly minimize pores while reducing the appearance of wrinkles and increasing cell turnover. The fact that it’s lightly scented with a delicate white flower essence certainly doesn’t hurt.
Elizabeth Arden Eight Hour Cream Intensive Lip Repair
Elizabeth Arden’s Eight Hour Cream is a cult favorite among beauty editors and makeup artists such as Pat McGrath, who regularly pulls it out backstage at the shows. This season, the multitasking wonder balm has been specially redesigned for pouts. Bolstered by ingredients like arnica-flower oil, honey, and watercress extract, it works to soothe extremely chapped lips on contact.
Sisley Botanical D-Tox, Detoxifying Night Treatment
Sisley’s newest night treatment is packed full of powerful ingredients like rice peptide extracts and ginkgo biloba, which have an anti-asphyxiation action on cells, working to draw toxins out from the skin. The superlight lotion instantly refreshes, and after some quality shut-eye, you’ll awake to a noticeably brighter appearance.
Le Métier de Beauté Ultra Hydrating Eye Mask Duo
Le Métier de Beauté’s new under-eye mask is a favorite for in-flight pampering, although it works just as well as an at-home indulgence. With these two self-adhesive gel patches that contain a patented calming seaweed ingredient, fifteen minutes is all you need to get a good dose of nourishing hydration that helps eliminate dark circles and puffiness. Editor’s note: Pop these into the refrigerator for an extra-soothing experience.
“Someone like Lee Miller” is who Lucia Pieroni was channeling backstage at Rochas, where it was all about that kind of “incredibly rich, well-kept woman that doesn’t even need to bother,” according to the makeup artist. The resulting beauty look was a slight departure from the hyper-feminized makeup that designer Marco Zanini typically orders up here, which reliably includes a standout lip. “We tried a lip,” Pieroni admitted, while using Clé de Peau Luminizing Face Enhancers in No. 11, a cool silver, and No. 12, a warm gold, to sculpt the skin, “but it made it too pretty, too lady—too retro,” she conceded. As an alternative, Pieroni deliberately eschewed mascara, eye liner, and blush in favor of a neutral-tinted lid that was stained with Clé de Peau’s Satin Eye Color in No. 208, a dark taupe-y brown, and a “forties brow,” courtesy of its eyebrow pencils. “The arch is much wider,” Pieroni explained of the decade’s specific brow shape, which registers slightly differently than the grooming techniques popular in the fifties or even eighties. “It makes them look a bit straight,” she elaborated.
Eugene Souleiman was less willing to pin the hair to a specific era when talking about what appeared, at first glance, to be a style reminiscent of forties-inspired waves. “It’d be Guy Bourdin-y in 1973 if it were done really well,” he maintained, careful to emphasize that he was not trying to produce yet another iteration of the big, soft, seventies-cum-forties ringlets we’ve seen so much of already this season. Instead, Souleiman maintained that he and Zanini wanted to pay tribute to Nicoletta Santoro, the Italian fashion editor and stylist who has played muse to Zanini before—and who happens to have “incredibly curly hair that she tries to tame but can’t,” according to the coiffeur. Creating an extra-deep side part, “almost like a comb-over,” Souleiman flat-ironed strands about a third of the way through the lengths before switching textures entirely. “It’s like a bob, with a bad perm,” he elaborated of the tightly wound loops that were wrapped around an iron through the ends and then “stretched out” to produce a looser wave with some deliberate frizz. “It’s not supposed to be particularly attractive,” he insisted, “because everything else is.”
Last Fall, the mulberry mouth was such an overwhelming trend that it became a season-spanning phenomenon, with celebrities, models, and the rest of us wearing the deep burgundy color well into spring and summer. As the Fall 2013 shows get under way, it seems as though makeup artists are intent on bringing the brooding hue back, although this time it appears to be much darker. Rather than give the new-era wine-stained pout a customary claret undertone, face painters seem to be turning to unlikely shades of black and brown to add depth, darkness, and a new twist on an old favorite. At Vivienne Tam, Maud Laceppe mixed MAC Lip Liner in Currant, a dark bordeaux, with its Lip Pencil in Nightmoth, a deep raisin, before blending in equal parts of its Lipmix in Purple and Black for a nineties-era punk sophistication. At Kenneth Cole, Romy Soleimani applied MAC’s Chromagraphic Pencil in Black Black on the outer corners of lips, before using a brush to blend it into the mix of berry pigments she had applied to create an ombré effect. At Derek Lam, Tom Pecheux dabbed the center of his glossy burgundy pouts with Estée Lauder’s Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paint in Sinister, a dark black, to simulate “voluptuousness.” And backstage at 3.1 Phillip Lim yesterday, Francelle Daly turned to the NARS Eyeliner Pencil in Mambo, a chocolatey brown, to add a richness to models’ mouths. Then, just this morning, Lucia Pieroni did her part to strengthen the cause by mixing two new blackened-cherry shades of Clé de Peau’s Extra Rich Lipstick, Mister Lincoln and Tuscany, backstage at Vera Wang. Commence imitation at will.
Lucia Pieroni is hands-down one of our favorite backstage beauty stars. Whether she’s sculpting contours and adding a signature slick of brown eye grease or upping the ante with a gorgeous, stamped-on lip, as was her habit for Spring 2013, there’s a certain level of classic artistry that goes into the Clé de Peau creative director of makeup’s work—which is to say, Pieroni doesn’t deal in the unflattering. Case in point: Even bleached brows couldn’t keep her red, matte mouths and luminous highlighting effort at Rick Owens’ Spring 2012 presentation from landing on the right end of hauntingly beautiful; we were actually so floored by the mulberry pout she dreamed up at Missoni for Fall 2011 that we made the lip pencil/lipstick cocktail our own personal go-to. Pieroni has that ability to make fashion fantasy a realistic, attainable one, which shouldn’t come as too big of a surprise considering she’s a pretty down-to-earth chick. The trained aromatherapist and yoga enthusiast with the wild curls dabbles in homespun beauty remedies, and isn’t afraid to bring homeopathic ones into the trenches. “It’s quite spiritual—in a positive way,” she said in Paris of the mood-lifting powers of a small bottle of calming mist that served as one of the many secret weapons she carried around in her kit this season. You’ve gotta love that. Click here to learn more about the British-born face-painting expert’s beautiful life.
There are certain collections that lend themselves to strong beauty looks, and under Marco Zanini’s tenure, Rochas is definitely one of them. “There are these incredible rosebud-colored patterned florals towards the end [of the show]; you kind of want to wear them on your mouth,” Clé de Peau creative director of makeup Lucia Pieroni said at Zanini’s Spring outing, where lush fabrics were a huge part of the story. The other conversation piece? Pieroni’s flat-finish cerise mouths.
“I’m obsessed with lips at the moment,” the makeup artist joked, having already gifted us with one of the month’s best last week in Milan. Giving skin a pastel, luminescent finish courtesy of a few swipes of Clé de Peau’s Luminizing Face Enhancer in #11, Pieroni dusted lids with the gold color from its forthcoming Eye Color Quad in #209 Sapphire and brushed up brows, leaving lashes without mascara. Then came those pouts, painted with a blend of Clé de Peau Extra Rich Lipstick in R1, “a beetroot red,” according to Pieroni, and R2, “a pillbox red,” which she mixed together and topped with a bit of its Blush Color Duo in Pink for a mattified texture. “Matte to me seems quite modern,” she said, dragging a cotton swab around the edges of the mouth to ensure a soft-focus effect, “as though they’ve really been sucking on a lolly.”
It wasn’t the first look she and Zanini tried, but it was the one that stuck. “The music’s very California, and we went through the process of having the girls look sun-kissed, but they looked too much like a Dutch painting with those hoods,” Pieroni elaborated, motioning to the silk visors-turned-headscarves that Zanini commissioned from the French couture house Lemarié. “She’s a romantic dreamer who does not go out into the sun,” Zanini chimed in of the accessories, which left Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman very little to work with.
“A ponytail is a little boring, but logistically, it was the only thing we could do,” Souleiman said somewhat begrudgingly, leaving his mark on the look by giving models what he called “premium hair.” “It’s really, supernaturally straight, ” the coiffeur explained, stretching strands with a blow-dryer, coating them with Wella Professionals Shimmer Delight Shine Spray, running them through an iron, and gathering lengths into a low ponytail that he pulled out a bit from the top of the elastic to create a voluminous, pseudo bob beneath the bonnets. “It’s maximized,” he admitted of the end result, “but so subtle it’s not vulgar.”