7 posts tagged "Consuelo Castiglioni"
For those of us whose fashion sensibilities tend toward the bohemian, Marni is the ultimate style pipe dream—the art-teacher-with-a-trust-fund wardrobe we’ve always fantasized about. Birthed in 1994 by the impossibly chic Consuelo Castiglioni as a new branch of the family’s iconic fur company, it has since then built a distinct identity for itself—playful patterns, quirky silhouettes, clever use of fur, futuristic fabrics and textures, bold colors in unexpected combinations—and in turn garnered a rabid following among those women for whom dressing is a both artful and distinctly personal affair. The epitome of that woman is Carolina Castiglioni, Consuelo’s daughter and the brand’s director of special projects. Here, in honor of the house’s Fall 2014 collection, Carolina shares her top beauty (and more) essentials.
THE FAVORITE FRAGRANCE: Marni Il Profumo
“I love the perfume because it isn’t too sweet, but wonderfully spicy and different from any other scent.”
THE AU NATUREL MUSTS
“My favorite moisturizer is Weleda Calendula Cream, and for a body treatment I like to make my own. I create a customized mixture of oils from three parts almond oil, two parts wheat germ oil, and one part jojoba oil. On my nails—which I always just polish with a transparent lacquer—I use Dr. Hauschka Neem Nail Oil Pen; it’s made for both the nails and nail beds.”
THE HAIR HELPERS
“For cuts I go see Enzo at Di Luca; he is very precise and I appreciate that. And my hair care products come from Di Luca as well. I especially love their coconut shampoo, pH emollient conditioner, and vitamin oil for the scalp.”
Di Luca, Piazza Cinque Giornate 3, Milano; dilucamilano.it
THE EXERCISE ROUTINE
“My whole family exercises with a personal trainer named Armandino. We all meet during the company lunch break and do aerobic exercises together.”
THE ESSENTIAL MEAL
“My favorite restaurant in Milano is Trattoria Arlati and, of course, I love to order risotto alla Milanese.”
Trattoria Artlati, via Alberto Nota, 47, Milano, 20126, +39 02 643 3327; trattoriaarlati.it
“Twisted” was the key word of the day backstage at Marni. Both makeup artist Tom Pecheux and hair pro Paul Hanlon used it to describe the look they created. For Hanlon, he was referring to the strands he plastered to the head—reminiscent of “brains,” “bird’s nests,” or “tree branches.” Consuelo Castiglioni said she was “a bit bored” of the simple styles she’d seen thus far in Milan, the mane master explained, so he crafted something more extreme—a look that might belong in an “enchanted forest” alongside the vibrant furs, floral prints, and feathers incorporated into the collection. He doused hair from roots to ends with mousse before coiling pieces over the top, covering the crown with a stocking cap and blowing it dry. “Basically, it’s the same effect as if you had a towel on your head and you keep twisting it around,” he explained of his technique. The top half was then locked in place with hairspray, but the length was left down and “dry.” Of the finished product he said: “It’s like a wicker basket—you don’t know where the hair stops or starts.”
To give the skin a “waxy” feeling, Pecheux reached for a highlighter, but not in a shade one would normally think to dab on the high planes of the face. Instead of your typical metallic, he employed MAC Cream Colour Base in Breaking Ground (a mauve-y gray) on the lips, lids, and brows. “Under the light it gives [the complexion] a weird tone and texture,” he noted. The products used to contour the cheeks were equally as unexpected as the chunky heels spotted on today’s runway: Lipstick in Siss (a deep nude) and Myself (a rose hue) were used to create an unusual flush. Lashes were left bare, and powder was dusted on sparingly to cancel shine in certain places (such as under the eyes). “Since the hair is so fucked up [meant in the most complimentary sense of the word], we needed the skin to be extremely polished,” he said.
Juxtaposed against the sporty elements (like visors and fanny packs) in Marni’s Spring 2014 collection were graphic, Japanese-inspired blooms. It’s only natural that the house’s latest fragrance, Marni Rose, would follow suit—boasting both rose absolute and Bulgarian rose at its core. The eau, similar to Consuelo Castiglioni’s aesthetic, is classic but modern, bold yet refined. Containing top notes like Nanah mint and bitter almond along with a base of cedar, patchouli, and musk, this blend is anything but powdery or cloying. Instead, it’s decidedly refreshing. And while I’m not usually a fan of feminine florals, one spritz sold me…along with the Style.com staffers within close proximity of my desk.
Tom Pecheux loves Marni, a point that is made ever clearer by the fact that, when you ask him about the makeup backstage here, his first priority is to tell you about the clothes. “It’s an insane, insane, insane beautiful collection,” he gushed about Consuelo Castiglioni’s Fall lineup, which, in a slight departure, was devoid of her signature bounty of prints and embroidery, and instead featured a masculine, monochromatic palette of luxurious fabrics. There was a single color that caught Pecheux’s eye, though: a deep, piercing raspberry fur that served as the inspiration for one of the best bordeaux lips we’ve seen yet this season.
“I wanted it to be a little blurry,” the makeup artist explained of the wash of MAC Lipmix in Crimson and its Lipstick in Hang-up that he painted onto pouts and topped with its Pigment in Basic Red to impart a dry finish. “Destroy the line,” he instructed his team while dipping Q-tips into MAC’s Invisible Set Powder and tracing them around the lip line for a diffused effect that called to mind old Sarah Moon photos. The powder was also integral to mattifying models’ skin, which was kept deliberately pale to make the mouth pop—and to contrast with the combination of MAC Lipmixes in Mid-Tone Nude and Orange that Pecheux layered across lids and underneath the lower lash line before topping them with its Gloss Texture for shine.
Acknowledging that Castiglioni’s woman was much “tougher” than usual for Fall, Paul Hanlon was compelled to add a masculine edge to hair via an extra-low side part that was coated with Tigi Catwalk Curlesque Strong Mousse and diffused through hairnets to achieve a “viny” texture that resembled ropes. “It’s a little bit twisted,” he admitted, making a purposefully bent mark in the back of strands to create the illusion of a scarf that had been tied around them causing a ridged imprint. The point was to move away from more whimsical notions and embrace something decidedly “deconstructed” instead, Hanlon explained. Mission accomplished.
After announcing last fall that she would launch her first fragrance—with Estée Lauder, no less—Marni creative director Consuelo Castiglioni has finally revealed more details about her house’s debut scent. “It’s for a woman who dresses for herself, who doesn’t follow trends but is sophisticated and also maybe a little eccentric,” the designer explains of the blend of spicy and woody notes tinged by an intense rose heart—all of which should sound familiar to the Marni faithful, who will be equally excited by the perfume’s bottle. Based on a flacon Castiglioni found at a flea market, the glass orb has been polka-dotted and topped with a red cap. “I wanted a bottle that was kind of traditional—that is, one that lasts over time, like the clothes we make,” she tells WWD. “It isn’t seasonal. I think this bottle reflects our concept—you want to keep it.” Ditto the Nick Knight-lensed ad campaign shots starring Raquel Zimmermann. [WWD]