3 posts tagged "Couture Fall 2010"
With last season’s ode to that peculiar crossroads where Avatar meets Mexico out of his system, Jean Paul Gaultier gave his backstage team a somewhat simpler directive for his Fall Couture presentation. “A twist on iconic touches” is how makeup artist Tom Pecheux described the designer’s instruction yesterday, as he built a look that paid homage to Madonna (those heavy brows), Marilyn Monroe (those pursed scarlet lips), and Greta Garbo (the fake lashes). As for the hair, coif master Odile Gilbert added some characteristic flair with her theatrical, sculptural updos. When models weren’t wearing actual decorative turbans, their tresses were fastened to resemble them, with tall, shellacked looped structures towering over their heads. Her handiwork might not work its way into your fall look, but Pecheux has made a strong argument for the red lip and the elongated gray smoky eye—as if they needed another endorsement.
“We wanted to have one makeup element stand out without taking away the focus from the collection,” makeup artist Peter Philips told us from the Grand Palais yesterday, where Karl Lagerfeld staged Chanel’s latest couture spectacular. As is so often the case—in both real life and the world of fashion fantasy—that one element turned out to be a strong red lip with a matching manicure courtesy of Chanel’s Le Vernis in Rouge Fatale. Paired with a modern, nude face, the overall effect was classy with an edge, or “haute couture makeup with strong street credibility.” Philips built his pout in layers, beginning with an outline and filled-in base of Chanel lip liner in Carmin, followed by a few lashings of his Rouge Coco lip color in Rivoli, a dark crimson, which he blotted with a tissue and set using Chanel’s translucent Poudre Libre for a matte finish and extra hold. This three-pronged approach will guarantee you long-lasting, strong color intensity, says Philips, and that will no doubt serve you well for the many days of lipstick-wearing you’ve got ahead of you come Fall.
With an array of tulip-shaped coats and dresses making their way down the Dior Couture runway yesterday, it was hard to take your eyes off of John Galliano’s bright bouquet of one-of-a-kind frocks. Unless, of course, you were already fixated on hairstylist Orlando Pita’s sculptural, sky-high coifs wrapped in Stephen Jones’ cellophane-inspired headgear, and the colorful, geometric makeup that came courtesy of face painter Pat McGrath. Pita built five different styles that each evoked images of flower buds about to open, teasing and spritzing hefty helpings of hair spray, like his T3 360-Degree Control, along the way for hold. As for the equally bold shapes the models sported on their lids, McGrath blocked out brows and drew on her own, more fantastic arches before whipping up a series of what amounted to boxy cat-eyes in a range of colors. Squaring off shades of orange, blue, green, and yellow at the inner corners, McGrath dragged her wet, pigment-dipped brush toward the temples with sharp precision. She then added requisite rows of fake eyelashes and a deep, wine-stained pout for additional shock value. It was a bloomin’ good time, to say the least.