September 2 2014

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2 posts tagged "Creatures of the Wind"

A Blue Streak and Braids, Backstage at Creatures of the Wind


creatures-of-the-windAs The Space Lady (aka Susan Dietrich, a former eighties street performer in San Francisco) blasted through the air, makeup artist James Boehmer talked about transcendence—the inspiration for the designers’ Fall collection, which faded from dark, heavy fabrics to white, airy materials. The color that began to appear by look seven was reflected in the makeup via NARS Larger Than Life Eyeliner in Khao San Road, an electric blue shade that was applied to the lower, inner rim. “It’s more of an effect than a color,” he explained, “It makes the eyes look big, bright, dreamy, and ethereal.” Sharon Tate served as the muse for the long, fluttery lashes on both top and bottom, along with the brows that were gelled-up just in the inner corners. The dewy skin and ultra-shiny lips, however, were taken directly from a seventies Princess Leia. “She always had perfect lip gloss no matter what happened,” said Boehmer. Complexions were hydrated with NARSskin Aqua Gel Luminous Oil-Free Moisturizer and cheekbones highlighted with Rosebud Salve for extra “gleam.” A blend of the forthcoming Matte Multiple in Mauritanie and Triple X Lip Gloss were “thumbed” onto models’ mouths. “It’s meant to look as if she’s just [ate] honey,” he said of the glassy finish.

Thankfully, Star Wars didn’t inspire the braid crafted by Odile Gilbert. Instead, the designers wanted something “cool,” she said. This resulted in a continuous plait that started at the crown of the head, wrapped around the front “like a bang,” and finished down the back. To prep strands, Gilbert used Kérastase Mousse Bouffante and Lift Vertige on damp hair for texture before blowing it dry, then added extensions a shade lighter than each girl’s natural color where needed. After making a side part with the pointed end of a tail comb and braiding, she roughed it up with her fingers to create “whisps” before finishing with Laque Dentelle hairspray and Touche Perfection cream for shine. “Don’t be afraid to destroy,” she told a stylist on her team as he watched in horror as she roughed up his perfect plait. The finished look took all of five minutes. “It’s like a little hat,” Gilbert quipped.

The “water-marbled” nails by manicurist Katie Jane Hughes also had an outer space reference (although there was no mention of Jedi Knights). After applying a base coat of Butter London Nail Lacquer in Trallop or Teddy Girl, Hughes applied a drop of Diamond Geezer, Billy No Mates, Yummy Mummy, Pearly Queen, and Posh Bird into a bowl of water. After swirling the shades with a stick, she gently dipped the nude or pink tip into the floating pattern. The result was reminiscent of “agate” or “cosmic environments,” she said. Hughes made the technique look relatively easy, but if you try this one at home, may the force be with you.

Photo: Getty

Lids as Good as Rose Gold, Backstage at Creatures of the Wind


“It’s always about many things with Shane and Chris,” NARS director of global artistry James Boehmer said backstage at Shane Gabier and Chris Peters’ Creatures of the Wind show. Boy was it ever. Boehmer ran off an inspiration list that varied between World War II teddy girls, Memphis furniture, and the “plasticized nature of candy,” which led him to a surprisingly understated makeup look, all things considered. “You don’t see it right away,” he pointed out of the rose-gold cat-eyes he traced onto models’ eyes using a mix of NARS Multiples in Maldives, a creamy bronze, and Copacabana, a dark champagne, with its Single Shimmer Eyeshadow in Nepal, a frosty mocha. “The texture is really pearly,” he continued of the lids, which caused him to keep the skin super-matte in contrast, using NARS Sheer Matte Foundation dusted with its Loose Powder. Brows were brushed up with its forthcoming Brow Gel, while lips were treated to a shot of moisture courtesy of its NARSskin Total Replenishing Eye Cream.

Hairstylist Odile Gilbert was going for “cool, with a touch of sophistication,” which lead her to a dual-textured, middle-parted style. Using Kérastase Resistance Ciment Thermique Heat-Activated Reconstructor Milk to “flatten” hair at the root, Gilbert employed a three-pronged curling iron to create glossy ridges through the lengths, coating them with its Elixir Ultime Moringa Immortel serum to add shine. “It helps achieve the look and treat the hair at the same time,” she boasted of the multitasking product.

Photo: Craig Barritt/Getty Images