4 posts tagged "Dawn Goldworm"
For New England-bred twin sisters Dawn and Samantha Goldworm, scent isn’t merely an accessory, it’s a lifestyle. It’s upon that credo that the platinum-maned pair have built 12.29, their olfactive branding company that has, since its launch in 2009, been busily creating custom scents for luxury boutiques, private homes, and a slew of runways—Rodarte, Jason Wu, and Prabal Gurung among them. And as of November, the sisters Goldworm have a home fragrance collection to call their own. The five new 12.29 candles (available at onlyscentremains.com) have dreamy scents and equally dreamy names—like A Vivid and Wild Beauty, a blend of milky florals and earth and fresh green notes—and a distinctly elegant presentation: Each is housed in fine porcelain courtesy of Limoges. Here, the fragrance-focused duo share their beauty favorites and, naturally, preferred scents.
THE WELL-SCENTED SALON: Whittemore House
“We followed Victoria and Larry from Bumble and Bumble to their own chic West Village salon, Whittemore House, years ago. We love the cucumber water they offer upon arrival, and Victoria is the queen of balayage. The salon also smells lovely, with a custom 12.29 scent that wafts throughout the space.”
45 Grove St., (212) 242-8880; whittemorehousesalon.com.
THE BEST BET FOR BLONDS: Oribe
“We are in love with the newly designed line of Oribe hair products. Not only is the packaging modern and chic, but the formulas smell delicious. We use the Oribe Ultra Gentle Conditioner and Gold Lust Nourishing Hair Oil.”
THE ARTFUL NAIL SPOT: Sakura
“I am a big fan of Japanese nail art, and Sakura is my go-to salon in NYC. It takes approximately two hours for a session, but the results are well worth it.” —Samantha
THE POLISHES OF CHOICE
“Although not super well known for its nail products, NARS has the best color and quality polishes. I am currently obsessed with a deep Purple called Fury. My other go-tos are OPI Big Apple Red and Essie Ballet Slippers.” —Dawn
THE FRENCH SKINCARE REGIMEN
“I swear by Amore Pacific skincare. All the products have a beautiful texture, and my skin is left smooth and luminous.” —Samantha
“I use a combination of Lancôme Absolue Premium Bx, La Roche-Posay Hydraphase, and Bioderma Créaline H20. My years in Paris changed my regimen. The French really know skincare best.” —Dawn
THE MINIMAL MAKEUP
“Neither of us wears a lot of makeup. Our mother always had a fresh, clean, natural face, and so we [gravitate] toward the same. However, we never leave the house without mascara: Lancôme Ôscillation or Definicils. And for Samantha, a touch of lipstick: MAC Ruby Woo or Lady Danger.”
THE SPA RETREAT
“The Mandarin Oriental Spa at the Time Warner Center in New York is the ultimate for a massage and relaxation.”
THE FACIAL GETAWAY
“For the most luxurious facial, I love The Guerlain Spa on the Champs-Elysées in Paris. You can curate your session by choosing a Guerlain perfume to scent the entire experience. So decadent!” —Dawn
THE SCENT SCHEME
“I am loyal to the 1992 Purple Perfume by 12.29.” —Samantha
“The only scented product I wear on my person is my perfume. It is an animalic Oriental with a touch of spice; very sexy, deep, and personal. And I scent all of our family homes with amber, and of course the 12.29 candle collection.” —Dawn
“Samantha and I regularly do juice detoxes when the seasons change to give our bodies a rest and rejuvenate. We also try to drink a fresh juice every morning. Our favorite juice spots in the city are Juice Press on East 10th Street and Organic Avenue on Third Avenue for its coconut water. In Paris, Bob’s Juice Bar in the Marais has great fresh juice and super-yummy food.”
See juicepress.com; organicavenue.com; and bobsjuicebar.com.
THE WELL-BALANCED WORKOUT: Yoga
“Yoga is our meditation. We have both been practicing it for years—it is our exercise, our discipline, and our balance. Our teachers are Lady Ruth Lauer-Manenti and Rima Rabbath at Jivamukti Yoga Center. The Jiva Cafe also has an amazing selection of vegan food.”
One could say that Dawn and Samantha Goldworm know a thing or two about setting the mood. They’re the olfactory forces behind Jason Wu, Thakoon, Zac Posen, Rodarte, and, most recently, Prabal Gurung—creating the scent that was pumped through the historic James A. Farley Post Office for his Spring 2014 runway show. In addition to designers, these twin sisters (whose company, 12.29, is named after their shared birthday) count luxury hotels, shops, and banks among their clients. Now, you can lace your space with their first five-piece collection of candles. With names such as A Dark Affair and Forget Everything But Me, these eaux explore the various facets of love—from a torrid tryst (represented by “animalic musk,” amber, and smoky woods) to the breakup (immortalized with hints of saffron honey, cistus labdanum, and saffron). The wax is housed in a white bisque-porcelain jar crafted by Limoges in France and is designed to be refilled once you’ve burned to the bottom. If only mending a broken heart was as simple…
$150 each, $75 for scented refills; onlyscentremains.com
Showgoers in attendance at Andrew Heather’s clinic on luxury at Revillon’s Spring presentation today at the Hôtel de Crillon may have noticed something in the air—quite literally. As elaborate leather and fur pieces followed more elaborate leather and fur pieces down the runway, a metallic albeit spicy and fresh aroma was palpable. The idea was to create a sense of “fear and beauty” through smell, according to Dawn Goldworm of the 12.29 olfactory branding company, who met with Heather at his studio over the summer to talk about the prospect of scenting his second show for the storied house. “Andrew was inspired by the French court of Versailles, so playing with some of the aesthetic and olfactive elements of that era, we thought of talc, mercury, fur, and animal notes,” continued Goldworm, who partnered with legendary nose Francis Kurkdjian on the project, a man who knows his Versailles. In fact, no one is perhaps more well versed in the olfactory lore of the seventeenth-century palace than Kurkdjian, who was commissioned to reproduce Marie Antoinette’s perfume as well as a pair of her scented gloves for a work at the castle in 2005. “Based on this past experience, I was able to create the scent Andrew had in mind,” he points out of the resulting Siamese benzoin, rose absolute, orange flower, and Ceylon cinnamon eau that was wafted through the room—a dispersion method that presents a distinctly different formulation challenge than constructing a scent for the body. “Technically, you have to take into consideration the volume of the space, how the air flows, and if there is an existing scent or a scent to cover when creating a fragrance signature for a space,” Kurkdjian explains, adding that the key is “to capture [the fragrance's] aura and its psychology.” “You’re creating a smell, rather than a perfume,” Goldworm elaborates. “It should not remind one of perfume but rather of an emotion, to create a fresh experience, a new memory”—and make this collection that much harder to forget.
The written word can in fact be bottled, as Wallpaper magazine proved when it reportedly collaborated with Karl Lagerfeld on this year’s Paper Passion, a bookish fragrance if ever there was one; meant as a sensuous interpretation of sheets of looseleaf, the flacon sits neatly inside an actual hardback tome. It’s not the first of its kind, though, of course. Fantastic Man teamed up with Ben Gorham’s Byredo a few years back, and after an introduction via Colette’s Sarah Lerfel, Jefferson Hack partnered with Le Labo’s Fabrice Penot and Edouard Roschi to create Another 13, an aroma designed for Hack’s biannual glossy.
Now comes the news that Olivier Zahm’s Purple magazine will join the perfume party. At a dinner on Sunday to celebrate the iconic publication’s 20th anniversary, guests will receive a bottle of 1992, a commemorative joint venture with 12.29 perfumer Dawn Goldworm. An eight-year veteran of Coty with credentials that range from creating eaux for Kylie Minogue, Kate Moss, and Lady Gaga to scenting fashion shows for designers like Jason Wu and Rodarte as well as stores for Corto Moltedo, Goldworm has devised a special process with which to create a fragrance for someone else. “I’m a synesthete,” she explains, “someone who uses one sense to determine another.” Channeling this ability, she processes the exact identity of a subject and then produces a corresponding smell. “I look at color, texture, emotional demographics and try to understand the brand, then I translate that pretty directly into an olfactory vision.”
Following two years of work, Zahm’s scent is a “modern eau de cologne on a classic amber structure,” according to Goldworm—a reflection of Zahm the man and the magazine he founded. “He’s very interesting, fun, and intelligent,” Goldworm says, explaining that as an art critic, Zahm speaks about the fashion world with an entirely objective opinion. “He looks outside of himself, which is the same thing he does with Purple as a brand.” As for the magazine, it’s “complex—and hard to reproduce, like purple the color, which is very feminine but has a hard masculinity to it. It’s evasive, it’s rich, it’s tender, it’s very glamorous—all of that really lent itself to me understanding how to build the perfume. It’s almost religious—and very sexual, because it’s Olivier.” Cue the textural woods, animalic notes, musk tinged with tuberose and some fruity notes, “because [Olivier] thought they were funny.”
“It’s very niche,” Goldworm surmises of her handiwork, pointing out that it’s not meant to be popular. Rather, “it’s the kind of fragrance you buy, you live with, you fall in love with, and it becomes yours.” Sign us up.
1992 will be available in limited quantities at Purple Boutique in September 2012.