21 posts tagged "Derek Lam"
Gwyneth Paltrow is known for her green eyes—to which her husband, Coldplay front man Chris Martin, dedicated a song. And last night at the L.A. premiere of Thanks for Sharing, she played them up by rimming them with a navy liner—a shade we saw backstage at Derek Lam this season. Makeup artist Tom Pecheux told me that he opted for the inky hue over black because it was “less aggressive,” a point Paltrow certainly proves here, with her soft, rosy cheeks and always flawless, fair complexion. I do think, however, that she should have taken a cue from Lam’s show and left the red lipstick home—opting for quieter nude that allowed her lyric-worthy assets to take center stage.
While a natural, beige nail seems to have won out this season at New York fashion week (appearing at Derek Lam, Vera Wang, and Michael Kors among many others), the manicurist at Proenza Schouler has no intentions of going bare:
“Nail art has been alive for years—Brooklyn, Queens, Harlem, Detroit—for me it never dies. It may go down to a solid [color] or something more mild [for Spring 2014], but I’m always going to have a party.”
And to that, we say: Lacquer up and dance like nobody’s watching.
Similar to Lam’s clothing for the season, the hair was all about “structured ease,” said Orlando Pita. While some girls wore theirs down with a turban tied over top, and others sported a ponytail, all had a slightly off-center part and a natural, wavy texture. To get it, he misted Phytolaque Soie light hold hairspray all over to act as a setting lotion and used the extra-large T3 BodyWaver to add movement—wrapping sections of hair under and over the barrel to form “S” patterns. For a second-day finish, he glossed over the surface of strands—as opposed to finger-combing, which creates flyaways—with Fiber Paste. Manicurist Jin Soon also kept things simple by layering two shades of her namesake polish in Nostalgia and Tulle for a non-muddy, universal nude.
Makeup artist Tom Pecheux’s response to the direction (one word: minimal) given by the designer was surprisingly not at all bare or boring. “I’ll give you three looks, how about that?” he quipped. The first one focused on rich textures—like creamy skin, a shimmery antique-gold cream shadow (part of a range developed by Lam, Pecheux, and Estée Lauder launching in January), and a moist nude lip. “I wanted to create a cuddle for the eye,” Pecheux says of the soft metallic shade. Since there was no blush, mascara, or brows, he added a subtle glow to the face by putting two drops of Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex II in the palm of his hand and embracing the cheeks—leaving behind a dewy finish that catches the light.
The slightly edgier second concept built upon the first—with midnight blue eyeliner (part of the same forthcoming line) drawn in tilted rectangular shapes (inspired by the navy-checked fabric in the collection) on the outer corners of the eyes with a square lip brush. “It’s almost like you put on [a band of] liner and took two-thirds of it off—leaving only the essential part that lifts the eye,” he explained. Pecheux envisions a woman who is off to after-work cocktails or an exhibition adding this graphic element on top of her everyday shadow.
The most dramatic of the three looks accompanied the final four evening gowns in the show. This time, Pecheux sexed things up by applying the same navy liner to the inner rim and blending it onto the lower lashes—finishing with mascara for definition. “This [reflects] the lives of women today,” he says of his layered approach. “They don’t have time to take a shower, [remove] their makeup and redo it, or go back to their hairdresser for a blow-dry,” Finally, a face painter that gets me.
“The buzzwords were bohemian, minimalism, structural architecture,” Orlando Pita said backstage at Derek Lam, rattling off a list of inspirational terms the designer had provided him with as a beauty directive for Fall. To Pita, that immediately meant texture. “We’re braiding hair and setting a wave,” he explained, adding extensions to ensure a uniform thickness at the bottom while prepping three-inch-wide sections with Phyto Workable Holding Spray before weaving them into plaits and pressing them with T3′s SinglePass Flat Iron. Nodding to the freewheeling feeling of the late seventies, Pita center-parted strands to “make the face more symmetrical” and ran his fingers through the crimped plackets. Then, taking two pins, he secured front sections behind models’ ears to give the shape a sense of uniformity.
Estée Lauder global Creative Makeup Director Tom Pecheux was speaking to Lam’s aptitude for giving incredibly rich fabrics a sense of casual comfort, which he also related to a bohemian sensibility—one that is rooted specifically in California. “You know when you ask people on the West Coast why they live on the West Coast and they say ‘quality of life’? It’s that kind of feeling,” he explained of the “very minimal” makeup that still managed to have a few complex twists and turns.
Following a massage with Estée Lauder Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator and its DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme, Pecheux created a base with Lauder’s Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup. “There’s no brow, no mascara, no contours, no highlighting,” he was quick to point out, turning his attention instead to a “stripe of eye shadow” in varying shades of lavender, rose, silver, and gray from Est—e Lauder’s forthcoming Pure Color Instant Intense EyeShadow Trios in Smoked Chrome, Steel Lilacs, and Sterling Plums, concentrating the sheer, shimmering pigment in the center of lids to catch the light on the runway. Lips were slicked with a blend of Lauder’s as-yet-unreleased Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Burnished Bronze, a sheer caramel, and its Pure Color High Intensity Lip Lacquer in Electric Wine, a deep garnet, before Pecheux pressed them with his fingertips to create a stain. As a finishing touch, he took another finger-dab of its Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paint in Sinister, a dark black, which he patted onto the center of mouths to simulate “voluptuousness.”
Maybe it was the fact that last season’s big, sixties-era undone bouffants met with mixed reviews—or that Spring’s general, minimal-minded beauty mantra is spreading. Whatever it was, Orlando Pita kept the hair backstage at Derek Lam incredibly simple—”relatable,” even, he offered.
The technically gifted hairstylist was more inclined to blame the move toward minimal on the wavering economy—”it’s not really the time to be flashy”—not to mention the state of fashion. “There are all these people now who are practical in the way they design,” he said, running off the list of sartorial stars responsible for the marked change, in his opinion. “Raf Simons is at Christian Dior now; Hedi Slimane at Saint Laurent—and Jil Sander is back at Jil Sander.” Then, of course, there’s Lam—a master in his own right at the simplicity of sportswear. “Derek wanted something that wasn’t referenced,” Pita shared, as he coated hair with Phyto Intense Volume Mousse, blowing it dry for texture and then coating his hands with its Workable Holding Spray before slicking down front pieces from an imperfect side part. Pita used T3′s straightening and styling iron to create loose waves through the lengths, deconstructing them a bit to ensure that the hair never looked “worked on.”
Estée Lauder creative director of makeup Tom Pecheux was going for a similar light-handed approach, despite using a bounty of product. “The only thing we’re not using is mascara!” he said of the fully made-up face that still managed to avoid looking heavy, thanks to Pecheux’s focus on a “see-through,” transparent finish. Prepping skin with Lauder’s Re-Nutriv Intensive Age Renewal Creme, his trusty bottle of its Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator and the new-for-spring Advanced Night Repair Eye Serum Infusion, Pecheux created a base with its Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup. Contouring with Lauder’s Pure Color Blush in Brazen Bronze instead of a sculpting product, Pecheux moved his focus to the eyes, which were layered with a selection of the brand’s forthcoming Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paints in Cosmic, Extreme Emerald, Halo, and Steel, a sheer teal/sandy-gold palette Pecheux described as “aqua—like the reflection of sunrise on a lake.” Lips were toned down and arches were beefed up, in accordance with Pecheux’s preference for big, full brows—”I can’t help it,” the face painter joked. As Lam made his way around the room, checking on the pre-show progress, he stopped by Pecheux’s station for a quick hello. “The girls look pretty!” he said. Indeed.