21 posts tagged "Derek Lam"
Last season at The Row, Tom Pecheux let us in on a little secret. Rather than stick to one shade of mascara, Estée Lauder’s creative director of makeup prefers to use black on the top lashline, typically only at the roots, and brown on the bottom. “All black is too dense,” he explained, producing a dual-ended prototype product he had designed for the beauty giant that had both lash-amplifying hues in one slim tube. Five months later, that prototype has been given a fancy packaging makeover and an even fancier new name. Lauder’s Sumptuous Two Tone Eye-Opening Mascara debuts in April, but it has already been making a splash backstage, where it was instrumental in creating the “twisted dolls” at Derek Lam. “Black opens the eye and lifts it up, but when you put it on the lower lash, it kills the lift and drags everything down,” Pecheux elaborated yesterday, reserving the glossy, chocolaty pigment for bottom lashes only. Available for preorder on Estée Lauder’s Web site now, there are two other shade combinations for your eye-opening pleasure, including Black and Rich Blue and Black and Rich Plum. We haven’t spied those backstage yet, but with the season’s early influence on eyes, we imagine they’re bound to show up—and soon.
“She’s a little naughty—she likes to break the rules a bit,” coiffing star Orlando Pita said backstage at Derek Lam of the designer’s sixties-era, college coed muse. What kind of rules does she like to break? The decade’s rigid coiffing norms, for starters. “It’s a little bouffant, but not perfectly done,” Pita explained of the high hair, which he slathered with Phyto Professional Intense Volume Mousse and spritzed with its Workable Holding Spray before blowing dry, back-combing, and crafting two different variations on the style, including a faux bob and a low, messy ponytail. “There’s no uniformity,” Pita reaffirmed.
“She has a twisted mind,” Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux said, adding to the character profile. Like Pita, Pecheux chose to keep things almost perfect—creating a flawless base with Lauder’s forthcoming Invisible Fluid Makeup and carving out an “oval” eye using the burgundy and black shades from its new-for-fall, limited-edition Pure Color Eye Shadow Palette, which he emphasized with black mascara on the top lashes and brown on the bottom using his brand-new, dual-ended Sumptuous Two Tone Eye-Opening Mascara. Cheeks were given a pretty wash of rosy-beige pigment with a mix of Estée Lauder’s Pure Color Blush in Alluring Rose and Brazen Bronze, which was dusted below the apples of the cheeks, rather than on top, to slightly contour and prevent a feeling that was “too teen,” according to Pecheux. Lips were painted a similar shade using a blend of its Pure Color Crystal Lipstick in Crystal Pink and its Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Vanilla Truffle that Pecheux matted down—as he’s been wont to do this week—with a finger patting of white powder. But there was one slightly “off” element that helped convey the bad-girl directive Lam had given his glam squad: Pecheux drew lashes onto the skin below the lower eyelid so that the models looked like dolls—”twisted dolls,” he asserted.
Since signing on as the face of Burberry a few seasons ago Cara Delevingne has gone from Poppy’s little sister to the girl with the mega brows—in our book at least. Delevingne opened Christopher Bailey’s Spring show in London in a world exclusive for Burberry, but that was last season. And, well, this is this season. After turning up on the Chanel couture runway in January, the 19 year old Brit has officially crossed the pond and is getting ready for a Fall coming out party. “This is my first time in New York. I haven’t done any other seasons ever,” she effused at Rag & Bone after making a runway turn earlier in the day at Jason Wu. “Im so happy to be here—I’ll be doing Paris and Milan, too,” Delevingne explained—after her Burberry exclusive in London, of course. As makeup artist Gucci Westman touched her up last night, we asked Delevingne what she brought with her from home to help keep her complexion in shape for the long road of shows ahead. “I’ve never been very good at taking care of my skin,” she insisted (although her radiant, completely blemish free face suggested otherwise). “I just use Simple Face Wipes and Skinceuticals serum,” she told us. “And my eyebrow gel. I need a shit load of that! I either use MAC or Anastasia—the clear one. I don’t need any more dark in my eyebrows.” Look out for more of Cara and her enviable arches at Carolina Herrera and Derek Lam this week.
Metallics were one of Spring’s surprise makeup trends (check out our full backstage beauty report in our debut magazine, which hits newsstands next week!). The high-shine, shimmering pigments are typically a Fall mainstay, but they turned up with frequency this season on lids at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Alexandre Herchcovitch; on hair and brows at Topshop and Fendi, respectively; and even on lips at Mary Katrantzou and Yves Saint Laurent, where loose, flecked pigments were pressed on top of pencil-coated mouths. But Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux’s performance with the foillike shadows backstage at Derek Lam was particularly noteworthy, as he managed to use golden and bronzed olive tones to seamlessly blend brow bones into arches. That’s where we got our first glimpse of Lauder’s new limited-edition Pure Color Cyber Eyes Gelée Powder Eyeshadows. Available in six different shades, including a glimmering pink, a shiny silver, a sparkly teal, and a lush lilac, Pecheux utilized a combination of Cyber Copper and Cyber Green to create full-framed arches that channeled Richard Neutra and “that time in architecture when they let the outdoors come in.” The shadows have a unique formula that is part liquid, part powder and part gel, which allows them to glide on easily when applied dry. But for a flash of full-on glitz, we’ve become accustomed to dampening the sponge applicator before sweeping it across our lids.
Estée Lauder Pure Color Cyber Eyes Gelée Powder Eyeshadow, $24, available November 2011 at www.esteelauder.com.
Backstage at Derek Lam, makeup artist Tom Pecheux was looking west—to California specifically, with its sun-kissed hills and the outstanding homes that dot them. “We talked about Richard Neutra,” Pecheux said. “It was the beginning of that time in architecture when they let the outdoors come in with big windows. That’s what I wanted to translate into the makeup.” As such, Pecheux brushed on a “strong, architectural brow,” with Estée Lauder Cyber Eyes Eyeshadow in Cyber Green and Cyber Copper, which he dusted beneath the brow bone and up through individual hairs, pointing out that powders create a softer look than pencils. Underneath was a wash of sheer canary yellow eye shadow in Rainboots, from a forthcoming five-pan palette. “That comes from the California sun,” Pecheux said of the color, adding a thin black line of pigment along the upper lash line with Lauder’s Intense Kajal Eyeliner in Blackened Olive. Skin was sculpted and bronzed with its new-for-Spring limited-edition Gelée Bronzer, while lips were given a high shine courtesy of a new Pure Color Lipgloss in Citron Kiss, a sheer yellow. “It takes away the pink,” Pecheux said, adding that it can also brighten up any darker, fall lipstick.
Coiffing star Orlando Pita was also drawn to Neutra’s “clean, crisp” lines, which inspired his sleek ponytails. Prepping hair with Phytovolume Actif Spray, Pita created deep side parts and blow-dried with his trusty T3 Featherweight blow-dryer before applying Phyto 7 Daily Hydrating Botanical Cream on the ends to smooth out any jagged tips. Then, gathering hair into a high ponytail, he flat-ironed the lengths, coating them in Phyto Shine Defining Wax for intentional severity. The sheen came from a spritz of Phyto Professional Workable Holding Spray—”I didn’t want to do a gelled wet look,” Pita said. “Who wants to wear their hair like that?”