23 posts tagged "Derek Lam"
Metallics were one of Spring’s surprise makeup trends (check out our full backstage beauty report in our debut magazine, which hits newsstands next week!). The high-shine, shimmering pigments are typically a Fall mainstay, but they turned up with frequency this season on lids at 3.1 Phillip Lim and Alexandre Herchcovitch; on hair and brows at Topshop and Fendi, respectively; and even on lips at Mary Katrantzou and Yves Saint Laurent, where loose, flecked pigments were pressed on top of pencil-coated mouths. But Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux’s performance with the foillike shadows backstage at Derek Lam was particularly noteworthy, as he managed to use golden and bronzed olive tones to seamlessly blend brow bones into arches. That’s where we got our first glimpse of Lauder’s new limited-edition Pure Color Cyber Eyes Gelée Powder Eyeshadows. Available in six different shades, including a glimmering pink, a shiny silver, a sparkly teal, and a lush lilac, Pecheux utilized a combination of Cyber Copper and Cyber Green to create full-framed arches that channeled Richard Neutra and “that time in architecture when they let the outdoors come in.” The shadows have a unique formula that is part liquid, part powder and part gel, which allows them to glide on easily when applied dry. But for a flash of full-on glitz, we’ve become accustomed to dampening the sponge applicator before sweeping it across our lids.
Estée Lauder Pure Color Cyber Eyes Gelée Powder Eyeshadow, $24, available November 2011 at www.esteelauder.com.
Backstage at Derek Lam, makeup artist Tom Pecheux was looking west—to California specifically, with its sun-kissed hills and the outstanding homes that dot them. “We talked about Richard Neutra,” Pecheux said. “It was the beginning of that time in architecture when they let the outdoors come in with big windows. That’s what I wanted to translate into the makeup.” As such, Pecheux brushed on a “strong, architectural brow,” with Estée Lauder Cyber Eyes Eyeshadow in Cyber Green and Cyber Copper, which he dusted beneath the brow bone and up through individual hairs, pointing out that powders create a softer look than pencils. Underneath was a wash of sheer canary yellow eye shadow in Rainboots, from a forthcoming five-pan palette. “That comes from the California sun,” Pecheux said of the color, adding a thin black line of pigment along the upper lash line with Lauder’s Intense Kajal Eyeliner in Blackened Olive. Skin was sculpted and bronzed with its new-for-Spring limited-edition Gelée Bronzer, while lips were given a high shine courtesy of a new Pure Color Lipgloss in Citron Kiss, a sheer yellow. “It takes away the pink,” Pecheux said, adding that it can also brighten up any darker, fall lipstick.
Coiffing star Orlando Pita was also drawn to Neutra’s “clean, crisp” lines, which inspired his sleek ponytails. Prepping hair with Phytovolume Actif Spray, Pita created deep side parts and blow-dried with his trusty T3 Featherweight blow-dryer before applying Phyto 7 Daily Hydrating Botanical Cream on the ends to smooth out any jagged tips. Then, gathering hair into a high ponytail, he flat-ironed the lengths, coating them in Phyto Shine Defining Wax for intentional severity. The sheen came from a spritz of Phyto Professional Workable Holding Spray—”I didn’t want to do a gelled wet look,” Pita said. “Who wants to wear their hair like that?”
After seeing Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux’s Modern Mercury collection in action backstage at Derek Lam in February, there were a few items we immediately jotted down as a reminder for a later date. In ballpoint scribble we were ultimately able to decipher the words “Black Chrome” and “Modern Mercury,” referring to the Pure Color Eyeshadow Duo shades Pecheux dusted across models’ lids for a graphic look. The pigments, which are just hitting shelves, are in fact as amazing as we remember them being five months later, although with the whole metallic-hued range now on view, we have a few new favorites to report. The limited-edition Pure Color Liquid Eyeliners that Pecheux has whipped up for the season are not to be missed, coming in three ultra-shiny shades including Graphite, a sparkling slate gray, Black Quartz, a deep onyx with iridescent shimmer flecks, and the real winner, Silver Zinc, which packs a gilded khaki punch. The easy-to-maneuver pens make scrawling a thin stroke across the upper lash line a fairly simple endeavor, and best of all, they stay put so that a molten cat-eye is totally acceptable fare even in the midst of summer’s excessive humidity.
One of the things that amazes us when we cross paths with face painter and Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux backstage is how he always takes the time to treat models’ skin before breaking out the foundation and powder. To properly achieve the “casual, sophisticated, feminine, and minimal” look he was after at Derek Lam “without being boring,” a dewy, perfect complexion was key. So Pecheux busied himself giving catwalkers mini massages with Estée Lauder’s DayWear moisturizer and a new serum called Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator. It should be noted that we spotted the contents of the aqua blue bottle long before we settled into a conversation with Pecheux. One of his publicists was looking particularly radiant for our 9 a.m. call time, and when we remarked on her skin’s impressive brightness, she extolled the virtues of the oil-free, antioxidant-rich elixir that imparts a glow while serving to reduce redness and pigmentation marks for a uniform finish. “It launches in June,” she told us—which seemed like eons from that cold February day, yet here we are, five months later, enjoying 80-degree weather and a serious skincare boost.
“It’s not day makeup,” Tom Pecheux joked of the metallic eye and heavy brow he concocted backstage at Derek Lam. Nor should it be; a lackluster look simply wouldn’t do for a Lam collection, which Pecheux rightly pointed out has the unique ability to be “casual, sophisticated, feminine, and minimal without being boring.” Translated into face-painting terms, this meant flawless matte skin, prepped with Estée Lauder’s new-for-summer Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator and a nice helping of its DayWear moisturizer, dramatized with an iconic eye. “It’s minimal but slightly severe,” Pecheux remarked of the August Sanders photography-inspired metallic silver and charcoal lids he was painting using two new Estée Lauder Eyeshadows from his Modern Mercury product range, due out this fall. Next, Pecheux turned his attention to a “powerful eyebrow,” filled-in with coordinating shades of Lauder’s Automatic Brow Pencil. “You can really feel them,” Pecheux—a staunch bleached-brow opponent—emphasized of the arches. Cheeks were contoured slightly with a few swipes of Estée Lauder’s Bronze Goddess Soft Duo Bronzer, while pouts were toned down using an as-yet-unreleased peachy beige matte lipstick. “A nude lip makes the eyes pop more,” Pecheux remarked. So does sleek, pulled-back hair, which coiffing star Orlando Pita was flat-ironing and spritzing with his T3 Control Hairspray before brushing it backwards and using a wide, pure-bristled toothbrush for extra smoothness. “It’s a classic schoolgirl look that typically would be secured with a barrette,” Pita described of the style. “But we’re not using barrettes here,” he continued, pointing out that he’s over that whole “it’s supposed to look like the girl did it herself” movement in runway hair. See how the three-sectioned ‘do stays perfectly symmetrical and perfectly in place? Try doing that yourself. He dares you.