25 posts tagged "Derek Lam"
One of the things that amazes us when we cross paths with face painter and Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux backstage is how he always takes the time to treat models’ skin before breaking out the foundation and powder. To properly achieve the “casual, sophisticated, feminine, and minimal” look he was after at Derek Lam “without being boring,” a dewy, perfect complexion was key. So Pecheux busied himself giving catwalkers mini massages with Estée Lauder’s DayWear moisturizer and a new serum called Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator. It should be noted that we spotted the contents of the aqua blue bottle long before we settled into a conversation with Pecheux. One of his publicists was looking particularly radiant for our 9 a.m. call time, and when we remarked on her skin’s impressive brightness, she extolled the virtues of the oil-free, antioxidant-rich elixir that imparts a glow while serving to reduce redness and pigmentation marks for a uniform finish. “It launches in June,” she told us—which seemed like eons from that cold February day, yet here we are, five months later, enjoying 80-degree weather and a serious skincare boost.
“It’s not day makeup,” Tom Pecheux joked of the metallic eye and heavy brow he concocted backstage at Derek Lam. Nor should it be; a lackluster look simply wouldn’t do for a Lam collection, which Pecheux rightly pointed out has the unique ability to be “casual, sophisticated, feminine, and minimal without being boring.” Translated into face-painting terms, this meant flawless matte skin, prepped with Estée Lauder’s new-for-summer Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator and a nice helping of its DayWear moisturizer, dramatized with an iconic eye. “It’s minimal but slightly severe,” Pecheux remarked of the August Sanders photography-inspired metallic silver and charcoal lids he was painting using two new Estée Lauder Eyeshadows from his Modern Mercury product range, due out this fall. Next, Pecheux turned his attention to a “powerful eyebrow,” filled-in with coordinating shades of Lauder’s Automatic Brow Pencil. “You can really feel them,” Pecheux—a staunch bleached-brow opponent—emphasized of the arches. Cheeks were contoured slightly with a few swipes of Estée Lauder’s Bronze Goddess Soft Duo Bronzer, while pouts were toned down using an as-yet-unreleased peachy beige matte lipstick. “A nude lip makes the eyes pop more,” Pecheux remarked. So does sleek, pulled-back hair, which coiffing star Orlando Pita was flat-ironing and spritzing with his T3 Control Hairspray before brushing it backwards and using a wide, pure-bristled toothbrush for extra smoothness. “It’s a classic schoolgirl look that typically would be secured with a barrette,” Pita described of the style. “But we’re not using barrettes here,” he continued, pointing out that he’s over that whole “it’s supposed to look like the girl did it herself” movement in runway hair. See how the three-sectioned ‘do stays perfectly symmetrical and perfectly in place? Try doing that yourself. He dares you.
The sixties struck again at Derek Lam yesterday, where the combination of Orlando Pita on hair and Tom Pecheux on makeup duty—his first and only NYFW appearance as Estée Lauder’s creative director of makeup—made for a middle-parted/strong-eye masterpiece. Pita prepped models’ hair with his Plump Heat-Seeking Liquid Hair Plumper for T3, and let his round brush and blow-dryer do the rest. He set hair slightly forward and added a little bump in the back to properly re-create the sixties vibe. As was the case at Peter Som earlier in the week, Pecheux paid homage to the decade with some well-crafted eyeliner. “I always said I would bring a French touch to Estée Lauder,” he said of his decision to eschew plain black liner again and go for a bright tangerine pigment, adding a shimmery, white triangle on the inner corner of models’ eyes. “I’m definitely cooking,” the former pastry chef said of the a-little-of-this, a-little-of-that makeup mantra he used to concoct the orange look, which involved a stroke of Lauder’s Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil in Coral topped off with a mixture of its Pure Color Moisture Rich Lipstick in Melon and Mandarin Pop. (Editor’s note: Lauder is relaunching its Pure Color Lipstick collection this spring to include super-bright, fun opaque shades like the two Pecheux used here as eye makeup. Get excited.) To add a touch of shimmer and hold the glossy lipstick in place, Pecheux topped off lids with a dusting of his Pure Color Eyeshadow in #39 Rock Coral. Lips were left a glistening nude courtesy of another one of these new pout perfectors in Vanilla Truffle. If this is what Pecheux meant when he told us at Lam’s show last season that he wanted to inject “a little fashion, some fantasy, naughtiness, and above all youth” into the 65-year-old Estée Lauder brand, we’re all for it.
We got a preview of what Estée Lauder could do under the artistic influence of Tom Pecheux backstage at Derek Lam‘s Fall show in February, when the iconic beauty brand and its newly named creative makeup director teamed up to sponsor their first runway presentation together. Last night, the products Pecheux used at Capitale’s grand ballroom finally made their official debut. To properly celebrate the launch of Pure Color by Tom Pecheux—the first time Estée Lauder has officially allied itself with another name—the family Lauder and global brand president Jane Hertzmark Hudis fêted the French face painter in Paris, alongside an international coterie of editors and friends of Pecheux’s like Odile Gilbert and Carine Roitfeld.
“We’re known for our skincare,” Aerin Lauder said over cocktails at Espace Pierre Premier before the party moved to Caviar Kaspia. “But everyone wants something a little unexpected.” There’s no better word for Pecheux’s fall Blue Dahlia collection, which launches globally in July. Two different color ranges introduce edgy shades of violet and blue to the company’s portfolio. Personally, we’ve got our eyes on a pair of phenomenal new nail lacquers in pale lavender and deep navy. But for his part, Pecheux is most excited about his limited-edition Pure Color Night collection, which hit counters in Paris this week (Selfridges on Oxford Street and Bergdorf Goodman will be receiving very small quantities of the line beginning mid-June).
“When I met with Leonard Lauder last fall, he said, ‘The first thing I want you to do is you.’ ” So Pecheux set to work designing his Parisian essentials: a face illuminator, a nude-rose gloss, and a smoky eye shadow trio called Naughty Black. It’s a tribute to French women at night: “very sensual, very cool, and very sexual,” he explained. We asked Pecheux if he had any personal goals for his involvement with the company and he was quick to respond: “I want younger girls to be able to say, ‘My mother loves Estée Lauder, my grandmother loves Estée Lauder, and I love it, too.’ It’s been a little slow motion; now, we need to have a bit of fun.”
We’ve been devoting much of our time and blogosphere space for the last week and a half to giving you an insider’s perspective on the hair and makeup looks from New York fashion week and beyond. Today, we’d like to give a shout-out to the skincare secret weapons that makeup artists rely on to keep models looking fresh through a nonstop, month-long show season. (Even the beautiful people are plagued by dehydration and breakouts, it turns out.) Here, a short list of their go-to products:
What: SKYN Iceland’s Cleansing Facial Cloths, Hydro Cool Firming Eye Gels, Icelandic Relief Eye Cream, and Pure Cloud Cream.
Where: Spotted backstage at Elise Øverland.
Why: SI technicians were on hand to treat models to mini de-stressing treatments with the aforementioned products, all of which are formulated with a potent Biospheric Complex that provides a boost of vital nutrients from Iceland.
Where: Spotted backstage at Naomi Campbell’s Fashion for Relief show.
Why: Facialist Michelle Peck and her daughter Tarin performed Intraceuticals’ Rejuvenate Facials on all models backstage. The treatment promotes natural collagen and elastin production and improves skin texture for a visibly smoother appearance.
What: Estée Lauder Re-Nutriv Cream and Advanced Night Repair Recovery Complex.
Where: Spotted backstage at Derek Lam.
Why: Makeup artist Tom Pecheux coated models’ skin with Lauder’s nocturnal serum, then followed it up with its Re-Nutriv cream for extra hydration to create the perfect base for foundation. Nary a caked-on makeup mask could be found.
What: Clarisonic Opal Sonic Infusion.
Where: Spotted backstage at Chris Benz.
Why: Trained aestheticians prepped models’ skin with the latest innovation from Clarisonic, which combines classic micro-massage with an additional antiaging serum that works to reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Noticeably firmer and brighter skin was then ready for makeup artist Daniel Martin’s magic touch.
What: Lancôme Génifique Youth Activating Concentrate.
Where: Spotted backstage at The Row.
Why: Makeup artist Aaron De Mey slathered the serum on models’ faces to create a “lit-from-within” glow, pre-complexion correction.
What: ZENO Hot Spot.
Where: Wherever breakouts flared up.
Why: To promote its Hot Spot Blemish Clearing Device, a zit-zapper that uses painless blasts of heat to destroy acne-causing bacteria, ZENO had a “blemish buster” hotline available at NYFW so that models who felt a pimple coming on could call in and have the handheld wonder delivered to the tents, the Altman Building, or wherever clogged pores reared their ugly heads.