64 posts tagged "Diane Kendal"
The inspiration for Prabal Gurung’s collection started in Mustang, a “secluded kingdom” high in the Himalayas in Nepal where the designer went trekking during a visit home. “What I really loved about the whole place was the incredible colors and incredible way of dressing—it’s almost like sportswear, because they have to layer everything,” he explained. The spirit of Gurung’s woman, however, remains the same season after season, no matter where his travels take him: “It’s a femininity with bite,” he said. For Fall 2014 he moved away from the formaldehyde-dipped strands and neo-pastel pouts created for Spring, and opted for “great skin,” “beautiful hair,” and “tactile clothes.” That element of strength key to his aesthetic comes courtesy of “natural femininity and natural beauty.”
Makeup artist Diane Kendal kept with the spirit of the clothes by using MAC Cosmetics Face and Body foundation to even models complexions, forgoing powder to create a dewy finish. Just the apples were flushed with a ruddy-colored cream blush, and Pro Sculpting Cream in Accentuate was dabbed along the tops of the cheekbones and across the center of the lids to highlight. Eye Kohl in Fascinating (a white pencil) was used on the lower waterlines to brighten, while Pro Sculpting Cream in Coffee Walnut was used to contour the crease and hollows of the cheeks. Brows were brushed up, filled in with a corresponding shadow (like Omega, Bark, or Concrete) and set with wax for a “bushy” finish. To tone down any redness in the lips, Kendal applied a touch of foundation to models’ mouths.
Manicurist Jin Soon also focused on simplicity, using two of the three forthcoming Sally Hansen nail lacquers in the designer’s limited-edition polish line out in September: Himalaya (a nude) and Rupee Red (a bold burgundy). The majority of girls received clean, sand-colored paint jobs, while five had a straight, vertical line drawn down the pointer, middle, and ring fingers.
Directing my attention to the designer’s mood board at the hair and makeup test, mane master Paul Halon pointed out a photo of a Nepalese woman with straight, glossy, center-parted strands—his jumping off point for the style. To re-create it for the modern, urban consumer, he used Chi Volume Booster at the roots “to give hair guts” and applied Silk Infusion to the ends before blowing everything straight with a round brush. For movement, he pulled the length up into a loose bun, spritzed it with Infra Texture Hair Spray, heated the makeshift knot using a diffuser, and finally blasted it with a shot of cold air. “When you undo it you get a little kink, but I don’t want to use a tong because it [starts to] look cosmetic very quickly,” he said. The hair was then topped off with a silver chokerlike necklace designed by Gurung, or pulled back into a low ponytail with a black band. “When they walk, it’s very light, very airy,” he said of the final result—almost like a brisk mountain breeze was blowing down the catwalk.
“We’re incorporating the untouched world into the city,” Prabal Gurung explained of the beauty look for his Fall 2014 collection. For Paul Hanlon that meant straight, center-parted strands taken from a photo of a woman in Mustang, a district of Nepal. Makeup artist Diane Kendal used MAC Cosmetics to create “flushed” cheeks, dewy skin, and defined brows for that mountain-fresh feel. Here, how it is all came together at the hair and makeup test: click to view the slideshow.
For Prabal Gurung’s first print campaign, he revealed the image not in a glossy, but via social media—tempting his followers with pieces to the final puzzle on Instagram. So it comes as no surprise that he’s teasing his Fall 2014 collection in the same manner—posting a photo with the caption “Inspired by Mustang” (a village high in the Himalayas in Gurung’s native Nepal). “I go [home] once a year—it’s the only way to keep me grounded,” he said. The designer also blasted out a mood board (although it’s not the mood board), with another clue as for what’s to come: “Seeing red for Fall 2014.”
Thanks to MAC Cosmetics, who snuck me into the hair and makeup test, I got a preview of the look. Last season gave us retro pastel lips and formaldehyde-dipped strands, but today you’ll see hair (by Paul Hanlon) and makeup (created by Diane Kendal) that’s much more, as Gurung explained, “nonchalant.” The evening was over almost as quickly as it began, as both pros nailed the look right off the bat. “I can’t believe how fast it was!” he noted. I won’t spoil the surprise with any more insights, but I will say that after seeing the goods, I’d actually consider taking a trek just to see where this beauty and fashion journey began. And trust me, the only hiking I do is from show to show.
Get the full report here on Beauty Counter after the models hit the runway.
The look at Jason Wu is always glamorous, but the gold glitter sprinkled across lids last season gave way to a more subdued—but strong—brow and a flat “boyish” bun for Fall 2014. “It’s a feminine/masculine look,” said mane master Odile Gilbert.
“This is something new for him—we’ve never done messed-up [hair] before,” explained Gilbert. The sides were kept “tight” (slicked back with Kérastase Touche Perfection), but she allowed for “movement” on top. In back, she pulled the length up into a chignon, but not in the traditional sense—sections were wound and secured to form a tight mass of hair. “There are about fifty hairpins in there,” she added. “The idea is to make it as small as possible…you don’t know where it starts and finishes.”
Makeup artist Diane Kendal “enhanced all the girls’ natural features” with a light coverage foundation, and contoured their faces with the bronze shade in Lancôme’s Blush Subtil Palette in Rose Flush—dusting it underneath the cheekbones and in the banana of the eyes. The pink hue was placed on the apples of the cheeks, while a pearly highlighter was applied to the tops of cheekbones and lightly across the lids. Black liner was worked into the roots of lashes for definition before fringe was subsequently curled. Kendal’s focus remained on the arches, which were filled in with a powder in the same tone as each model’s hair so that they “didn’t overtake the face.” She also slightly elongated the brows to create the “illusion of them being straighter,” she said. A combo of balm and foundation on lips rounded out the boy-meets-girl maquillage.
With temperatures expected to drop into the teens tomorrow, I figured now is the perfect time to share NARS’ steamy new Spring 2014 campaign video featuring model Toni Garrn, makeup artist Diane Kendal, hair guru Garren, and, of course, founder François Nars behind the lens. With shades inspired by lush, tropical fruit (like a guava-hued lip gloss and cantaloupe-colored nail polish) and metallic shadows and liners (lending lids that slick, fresh-out-of-the-water sheen), this collection will certainly help dispel those winter blues and brighten up a black-and-gray cold-weather wardrobe.
Available January 15 at NARS boutiques