64 posts tagged "Diane Kendal"
After breaking the news that Sunday Riley Makeup would be debuting backstage at Vanessa Bruno this week in Paris, the verdict on the skincare guru’s first foray into color cosmetics is in: It’s totally awesome. “They’re great textures for the public—very consumer-friendly,” face painter and Sunday Riley Makeup color consultant Diane Kendal said of the full product range that includes everything from foundations and powders to eye shadows, lipsticks, and liners. To create what she described as “a very Vanessa girl—Jane Birkin, a bit sixties,” Kendal dipped into Riley’s new Liquid Light Foundation, layering it over her cult-favorite Juno Transformative Lipid Serum for dewiness. Dabbing Riley’s Lipstick in Havana Heydey, a peachy pink, onto cheeks—”it’s slightly greasier and adds more shine,” Kendal said of using lipstick rather than a cream blush—she dusted lids with the new Eye Color in Aspen Snow, an iridescent white, lining the top lash line with Riley’s Velvet Gel Eye Pencil in Black.
Riley herself was also on hand to talk about the new offerings. “We didn’t want to just do a capsule collection,” she said about the three-year process that went into meticulously crafting every single piece of the range. As for her favorites, that honor goes to Havana Heyday and her foundations (there are two, a lighter fluid formula and a cream for more coverage). “I wasn’t ever really a big foundation wearer,” the porcelain-complected Riley admitted of life before her makeup line. “But now I can never go back.” (Pro tip: Riley likes to mix her foundation with her Cashmere SPF 30 Advanced Sun Defense and dots it with Juno Serum for added radiance). Be advised that there’s also a pretty fantastic tinted primer that’s got our name all over it.
When we first caught wind of the news that Sunday Riley was hard at work on a complete collection of colored cosmetics last season backstage at Jason Wu, we had a lot of questions. First and foremost, when would we be able to get our hands on it, and who from the face-painting world would Riley wrangle as a co-conspirator on the project? Following a number of encounters with Riley on the Spring show circuit, both questions have been answered: The line will bow in October and will feature the makeup magic of Diane Kendal—she of Proenza, Alexander Wang, and Thakoon backstage fame—who has signed on as color consultant. “Sunday’s dedication to great ingredients while being very eco-conscious is an unusual combination in the beauty industry,” Kendal recently told Style.com of her rationale for teaming up with Riley. “I find it refreshing,” she continued, “and felt I could really get behind someone who is so forward-thinking.” While there are still a few weeks before the official debut of what we can only imagine will be a series of truly exceptional, green-leaning products with amazing, skincarelike textures, we just found out that we’ll be getting a sneak preview of them in action this week in Paris. Kendal will be premiering the line this Sunday backstage at Maiyet, followed by an encore performance at Vanessa Bruno on Monday. We’ll definitely report back on how it performs in the trenches. Stay tuned.
Lazaro Hernandez and Jack McCollough are nothing if not consistent when it comes to their backstage beauty look. Even when brow bleaching was all rage two seasons ago, the Proenza Schouler boys stayed true to sculptural, darkened brows and contoured, carved-out cheeks—nothing more, nothing less. Makeup artist Diane Kendal was on site, serving up the designers’ signature for Spring. Referencing “Googie architecture and 1950′s cars,” Kendal set to creating clean lines, sweeping MAC Sculpt & Shape Powder in Bone Beige underneath cheekbones and fashioning naturally full, “squared off” arches that she filled in with a series of complementary eye shadows. Bare lids and a slight flush, courtesy of a mix of MAC Blush in Immortal Flower and Lovecloud, supplied a barely-there flush.
Hairstylist Paul Hanlon also had the fifties on the brain, resurrecting Fall’s favorite buzz word—”quiff”—while building a masculine style with a soft feel. “It’s a bit rockabilly,” Hanlon said of the deconstructed pompadours he prepped with Frédéric Fekkai Coiff Oceanique Tousled Wave Spray. Combing hair backwards and setting it using Fekkai’s Coiff Nonchalant Piecing and Forming Wax, Hanlon gathered the lengths into a messy knot, pulling pieces out as he went for additional dishevelment. Hanlon has mastered the kind of undone done-ness that is as essential to the Proenza girl as Kendal’s strong brows. If it ain’t broke, don’t incorporate a bouncy blowout.
With stark severity getting a lot of backstage beauty play for Spring so far, it was only a matter of time before the young, the fresh, and the pretty mounted an offensive. “It’s just gorgeous beauty,” makeup artist Diane Kendal said backstage at Carolina Herrera, where she was enhancing girls’ natural features with washed-out shades of pink and earthen tones. Onto “translucent skin,” Kendal added a contouring flush using MAC Blush in Baby, a pale pink, which she dragged up toward temples to carve out a slight structure. A dab of its Blush in Modern Mandarin on the apples of cheeks and its Iridescent Powder in Silver Dusk along the cheekbone added depth and light. Eyes were coated with MAC Greasepaint Stick in Brown, which Kendal finds “much less harsh” than more traditional black shadows, and defined with a thin stroke of its Fluidline in Blacktrack right along the upper lash line. To complete the look, Kendal layered MAC Sheen Supreme Lipstick in Ultra Darling, a light rose, with its Lipstick in Dish It Up, a medium pink, and the sheer fuchsia shade from its Tutti Lip Palette, finger-patting as she went for a “worn-in stain.”
Hairstylist Orlando Pita was following a “keep it easy” mantra, fashioning ponytails that were not pulled out completely. “It’s a loop,” Pita pointed out of the style, prepping hair with Morroccanoil Light and creating a middle part. To add softness, he then slathered strands with its Hydrating Styling Cream before gathering hair into a low ponytail and back-combing the lengths for a slight bit of texture. Face-framing wisps left a lingering romantic effect.
When we arrived backstage at the Plaza Hotel for Thakoon’s Spring presentation, we caught Odile Gilbert blue-handed. The hairstylist was elbow deep in emulsified, colored clay powder. “You can eat it,” Gilbert said of the substance she brought with her from Paris, where the French frequently mix it with water to fight indigestion. But yesterday, it was being used as a reference to India’s Holi festival, when revelers throw pink powder in the air and all over one another to celebrate the triumph of good over evil. “Thakoon really wanted a touch of color in the hair, so we thought today was a very good day to have a Holi day,” Gilbert joked, applying the watered-down mixture in shades of pink as well as blue, green, terra-cotta, and lilac to two different styles, a double French braid and a faux bob. (Slightly apprehensive models were promised a good washing and reparative treatment following the presentation with Kérastase’s Nutritive Bain Satin line).
The Holi festival wasn’t the only idea on Thakoon’s mood board. “I got the cowboys,” makeup artist Diane Kendal said of the designer’s other cultural reference point. To get the sunworn look of Wild West frontiersmen, Kendal set to work sketching strong brows and tinting lids using a collection of beige and brown NARS Eyeshadows in Bengali, Bali, and Blondie. But Marlboro man, this was not. “The girls still are supposed to look really pretty,” Kendal said. And they did thanks to a warm flush that the face painter brushed onto cheekbones using NARS Blush in Zen, a warm toasted almond, and its new spring shade, Gaiety, a rosy pink.