58 posts tagged "Dick Page"
The look at Marc by Marc was characterized by a single—but colorful—gesture, explained makeup artist Dick Page. He disregarded trends and even the palette of the collection, citing only David Bowie as a reference. “It’s just a lop of color on the eye,” he stated rather matter-of-factly. To create this graphic blue block, he started by applying Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Ice in a crescent shape with a brush—placing it along the lash line from inner to outer corner and filling in the lid. He followed this same pattern with a powder formula in Curacao, a shade from the Limited Edition Eye Color Bar, using a “windshield wiper” motion to lay down the pigment and diffuse the edges. “When the model is looking directly at you, I only wanted you to see a halo of color,” he said. Any fallout was cleaned up before applying a light layer of foundation, and lips were left bare, save for a moisturizing balm.
Guido Palau created an equally simplistic hairstyle with a bit of rock ‘n’ roll edge. He started by prepping damp strands with Redken Satinwear 02, and blew the hair straight and flat to the head. To add a bend, he wrapped sections around the barrel of a curling iron—starting midlength and leaving the ends out. Diamond Oil Shatterproof Shine was glossed over the top to add weight. “I wanted the hair to feel lank—not flyaway, floaty, or romantic,” said Palau. After misting all over with hairspray, he tucked strands behind the ears and wrapped a silk scarf around the neck (a technique we saw earlier in the week at Thakoon) to add back a bit of “natural movement.” And while some of the girls had a black or cream scarf incorporated into their looks on the runway, “as if they had caught their hair in it,” he explained, the accessory was removed from the rest of the models before hitting the catwalk.
If you were wondering what shade was slicked on nails, it was Jacobs’ favorite color, of course: Shiny (i.e., clear).
Compared to her older sis Beyoncé, who tends to stick to a consistent beauty routine (perfect highlighted, wavy locks; tawny makeup with a bit of shimmer; and a neutral pout), Solange Knowles takes a more adventurous approach, and has recently experimented with everything from lengthy box braids reminiscent of Janet Jackson circa Poetic Justice to vibrant red-orange lipstick straight out of a J.Crew catalog. Last night, the ever-present singer performed at Atlantis Super Wash Center in Brooklyn, for The Fader‘s #uncapped series, rocking edgy turquoise floating “banana” eyeliner in a crescent shape just above her curled lashes. It made us recall Dick Page’s work backstage at the Michael Kors Spring ’13 show (right) and, more recently, the electric-blue kohl under-liner from Chanel’s Resort runway (left). What do you think of Solange’s blue period?
Photos: Yoshi Okamoto; Getty Images; Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com
Phoebe Philo’s Céline show is one of the hottest tickets in Paris—so hot, in fact, getting backstage is a near-impossible task. But not if you’re Dick Page. The Shiseido artistic director of makeup, and longtime Philo collaborator, has been on face-painting duty here for seasons, including Fall 2013, which proved to be a big winner for the designer, thanks in small part to Page’s “natural, healthy, transparent beauty.” Here, Page provides a postcard from the trenches:
“It’s clean and pure. Lightly moisturized skin [with] a wash of foundation where needed to cover any blemishes or redness. I used dark brown concealer to shade around the lash lines—top and bottom—for a naturally shaded effect, and Shiseido’s eyebrow compact brushed through the brows to toughen them up. No mascara. Lips were treated with its Benefiance Lip Balm and muted slightly with a rose-beige camouflage concealer for a very natural lip finish. I did a little color toning on each girl individually, with beige/tawny/brown concealers applied with a fluffy blush brush across the cheeks, the bridge of the nose, and a little around the hairline, depending on the skin tone, leaving freckles and natural shadows [visible] under the eyes. The result? You don’t see makeup. You just see pretty girls in gorgeous clothes.”
We’ve become accustomed to seeing Michael Kors’ woman with a sun-kissed glow from her time spent skiing or on safari, so when we spied a graphic black cat-eye backstage for Fall, makeup artist Dick Page immediately had our attention. “I met with Michael and Paul Cavaco, who styled the show, and amongst other things was the idea of an uptown girl heading downtown to party, or the club kid going up to Mr. Chow’s for dinner”—a good old-fashioned dose of culture-clashing, if you will.
After perusing a selection of reference pictures, the Shiseido artistic director decided to focus on an eye, but not just any eye. “I played for a while and ended up with this block shape, which we thought was just more interesting than smoky, winged, etc.” Using Shiseido Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Caviar to build the shape from the center of the lid outward, Page diffused the pigment with the powdery onyx and shimmering pink shadows from its forthcoming Eye Color Bar, creating a sheered-out rectangle. Adding a highlight to the inner corner of the eye and the brow bone with its Shimmering Cream Eye Color in Pale Shell, a champagne, Page placed a luminescent glow beneath the lower lash line on the high point of the cheekbones for contrast. Beefing up the outer third of the upper lash line with a liquid black liner, Page swiped on a few coats of mascara before toning down lips by sponging on a mixture of Shiseido’s Benefiance Lip Balm mixed with foundation.
Complementing the urban-chic makeup were Orlando Pita’s sleek, high ponytails—which every girl, Karlie Kloss included, received. Designers have taken something of a “come as you are” approach to the bevy of catwalkers who cut their hair short last season, but not Michael Kors. If you enlisted in his runway army, you did so knowing that you were fighting for uniformity.
Narciso Rodriguez may increasingly be experimenting with color in his collections, but the complementary hair and makeup looks at his shows seem to be getting more and more stripped down in the process. Citing the success of Spring’s fresh, transparent face, Shiseido artistic director Dick Page confirmed that Rodriguez was keen on a repeat appearance. “I went to look at the clothes, and Narciso said, ‘I really loved how the girls looked last season. Can we do that again?’ I said sure. If it ain’t broke, don’t fix it.”
“It’s almost untouched,” Page elaborated of the nearly nude faces. “For a lot of women, it’s not enough,” he joked of the light-handed approach for which he swiped lids with the brown shadow from Shiseido’s limited-edition Eye Color Bar, while giving brows a “sketch of color” and definition with its Eyebrow Styling Compact. As he dabbed lips with its forthcoming Perfect Rouge lipstick in Harmony, a dark crimson, he asked, “So if you didn’t see that happen, you wouldn’t think she was wearing lipstick, right?” In fact, every model looked as though she was sporting a slightly tinted balm rather than full-on color. Sticking to the theme of simplicity, cheeks got a customized dusting of Shiseido’s Luminizing Satin Face Color while nails were kept short, round, and varnished with two coats of Deborah Lippmann’s ultra-sheer nude polish in Naked.
Paul Hanlon also picked up where he left off for Fall, bringing a certain ease to the hair as Rodriguez’s newly installed lead hairstylist. Creating imperfect center parts, Hanlon gave models smoothing blow-outs before applying a mist of hair spray to help slick strands behind the ears. Lengths were given a slight bend to create movement, but the key was to not do too much, thus letting Rodriguez’s traditionally understated clothes make the statement.