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July 25 2014

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41 posts tagged "Dior Beauty"

The Makeup Magic Behind Dior Beauty: Peter Philips Tells All

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peter-philips-backstage

Some of the biggest backstage hits—Chanel‘s painterly eyes (Spring 2014), Fendi‘s neoprene eyeliner (Spring 2013), and Dries Van Noten‘s gold-laced lashes (Spring 2014) —can be chalked up to one man: Peter Philips. He’s also the brain behind such sellout hits as Chanel Le Vernis in Jade and the brand’s pearl and lace temporary tattoos. And when the news broke that Philips landed at Dior as the house’s new creative and image director for beauty, I think the angels started singing (or was that just beauty editors squealing with delight?). It’s almost as if his career has come full circle—seeing as his pivotal makeup moment happened on a Raf Simons shoot, during which he drew Mickey Mouse’s mug in perfect scale on a model’s face. “People flipped out,” Philips noted in an earlier interview with Style.com. “They really remember the spectacular things you do, and the pure beauty things they take for granted. I learned a lot from that.” Here, the master of makeup invention provides a sneak peek of what he has in the works, which I expect is nothing short of spectacular.

What is your vision for Dior Beauty?

My personal vision on beauty doesn’t really change. The tools are new for me. My vision of beauty is that I put the woman first—especially individual beauty—and I’m hoping to be able to create palettes and colors and products that will enhance that beauty, but of course be in [step with the] DNA of the house. The Dior woman is like a hyper-feminine woman—she loves color…I’ve got this little one-liner that I always use: All women want to be beautiful, but not every woman wants to necessarily be fashionable, and I keep leading in that. Of course fashion—because this is also a fashion house—is a great locomotive, a great tool to play with, to attract women with, and to tease and to play with, you know? It can push or pull her attention toward a lipstick or a nail polish or a foundation that maybe a girl normally wouldn’t go for. It’s all a game of seduction, and that’s a strong card for Dior.

When you say that all women want to be beautiful but not necessarily fashionable, how do you plan to appeal to the woman who doesn’t want blue latex eyeshadow or glitter?

That’s the whole thing: Dior is known for the bold colors and everything, but they also have an amazing line called Nude, which is basically about that natural beauty. They have great formulas, and the labs are also working on new [ones]. I mean, I’m here now for three weeks, so I’m jumping from one meeting to another and getting to know everybody who works behind the scenes, and I’m blown away by what I’ve seen. I mean, the innovation in the house is so ahead [of the pack]—they’ve got fantastic laboratories. Those technologies and the knowledge they have—it’s great to work with that.

Is there a particular formula that you’re very excited about?

Yes, I actually just got introduced to a new foundation coming out soon, and the first show I’m going to do for Dior will be a Cruise collection in New York in May. I don’t know what the look is going to be but already know which foundation I’m going to use.

Speaking of show season, how closely will you work with Raf Simons day-to-day?

For that I think I’m mainly working on makeup looks for the catwalk, like I did, for example, when I used to work with him at Jil Sander. Of course I’ll be trying to get my new stuff in if there’s a place for it! And of course I’m going to try to make it to work if he wants something specific…if I need to make something especially for him, I will do that. The team behind me is ready to go for it, and they’re all very excited.

I know you’ve worked with him for more than two decades, and he’s really been pushing the envelope in terms of the look the past few seasons, with the gold brows and latex eyes. What is his aesthetic as far as beauty is concerned?

It grew—his aesthetic on beauty really grew. I’ve been doing his men’s shows since the early days, and then we did Jil Sander. He was very uncomfortable with makeup in the beginning because he didn’t want [the models to look like] they were made up, so that’s why we started off with very natural-looking but kind of severe, strong women. He was inspired by Kees van Dongen [for Jil Sander's Fall 2011 collection], and of course there was color in the paintings, so that’s when we started to introduce color, and we started off with a great lipstick—a vibrant shade on the lips. He started to appreciate makeup more and more, which for him is maybe a different thing than beauty. He sees makeup as a thing, which can be used to accessorize or to dress up.

What are you thinking of in terms of creations for the future? Have you already started developing new products?

I’m just starting to breathe and brainstorm. Every conversation I’ve had here [at Dior] has turned into a brainstorming session. Everybody was taking notes, and I had so many questions. I jumped on this [moving] carousel, this makeup train, and step-by-step my input will be seen. It’s not that everything stops now and you start over again.

When will we see your input hit shelves?

The first actual collection is Autumn 2015—still a long way away. But in the meantime, I’m working on a project for Christmas. It’s very exciting because it’s a smaller project, so we can easily fit it in. Of course, for Spring and Summer, the collections are already in the pipeline. I just jumped in and gave my advice on some things that could still be changed if needed.

Will you be working on ad campaigns similar to some of the projects that you did during your tenure at Chanel? I remember very vividly the makeup robots. Will you be doing anything like that with Dior?

That’s the idea, yes. I’m the Creative Director of Makeup and Image, so it’s kind of new for [the brand] as well…My name will be [associated with the product], so I have to stand behind it the whole way. I’m a big fan of visual communication, I love playing with the Internet, making films, and all that stuff—it makes it even more fun and it can make the message you’re trying to pass on much more accessible.

I can’t wait to see what you come up with. You’ve had so many product hits in the past, some of which are still sought after today on eBay. How do you develop those must-haves?

The thing is, I observe a lot and I listen. I travel a lot because of my work. Whenever I do interviews, especially when it’s about launches of products or when I work with beauty editors, they give the best feedback. A beauty editor from Korea will tell you so much more about Korean women and their needs and their desires than, for example, somebody Paris-based who does the marketing research on Korean women. You have true feedback, which is not pushed by any motive other than trying to be beautiful. I think it’s very interesting to get that feedback, and I listen. For example, everybody keeps talking about the nail polishes I did [at Chanel], but it was bound to happen—I just had the tools to play with and I knew there was a desire. I listened to my girlfriends and women that I know—I knew something was going to happen with nails—and just played around with it and wasn’t afraid. It wasn’t a risk—doing a funky new nail shade is not taking a risk—it’s just fun. And then being able to link it with shows gives [the polish] great visibility. When makeup becomes an accessory, it has a reason to exist…And that’s what I think women like, when they get something new in front of them and it’s there for a reason—it’s not just there for the sake of being there. When it has a reason to exist, they will go for it.

Obviously you’ve worked with a very famous French house before. How do you feel working with Dior will differ from Chanel?

The DNA, I mean, it’s totally different. The only thing they have in common is that both are French houses…Everybody is so mysterious about it, the other house, but I had a great time at Chanel. I did what I could do for the house, and it was fantastic to work with them. But if you look at the style of the house, it’s night and day. It’s a totally different type of woman. The codes of the house are different. Like I said, Dior is hyper-feminine, it’s colorful. It’s not that one is better than the other—it’s just different.

Fair enough. In your opinion, what is your beauty signature and how will you bring that to Dior?

Beauty, for sure—and excitement. It’s going to happen through color and formulas. I’m a storyteller—whenever I make a collection, I try to tell a story, and I hope the stories will be exciting.

There’s no doubt I’ll be completely captivated.

The Pregame: Getting Ready With Hannah Bronfman and Dior

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In preparation for last night’s Dior International It Girl event in Paris, where style-savvy social media darlings gathered from all over the globe to toast the new Addict Fluid Stick and Vernis range, Hannah Bronfman teamed up with the house’s glam squad—international makeup artist Violette and newly crowned international nail designer, Anatole Rainey. Together, they crafted her look from head to perfectly polished fingertips (one of which was painstakingly bejeweled with Swarovski crystals) before Bronfman spun the night away in the DJ booth and on the dance floor. Here, her beauty play-by-play.

Dior Beauty/Hannah Bronfman

Rainey offered up his forthcoming favorite polish while he worked: Sailor, a blue lacquer from the limited-edition Transat collection (on counters in April). “To me, that’s the new red. It goes with everything, but it’s very chic, very Dior.” His one no-no? “Matching your outfit to your nails. They need to stand out, like an accessory.”

Dior Beauty/Hannah Bronfman

“She’s wearing a spectacular yellow top with hints of pink, so we decided to go with the pink,” Rainey explained. Make that nearly half the pinks in the Dior Vernis Couture Color collection. He painted each nail a different shade, creating a soft ombré that culminated in Mirage (#338) on Bronfman’s right hand and a shower of Swarovski crystals on the tip of her left ring finger.

Dior Beauty/Hannah Bronfman

“When I see Hannah I feel like she is cool and young and fresh, so she doesn’t need much makeup,” said Violette.

Dior Beauty/Hannah Bronfman

The face painter amped up the fun factor with the Dior Addict Fluid Stick in Pandore and Mona-Lisette. “I love things that are in between, it makes a more surprising color,” she said. “[Pandore] is bright without any heaviness,” she said, dabbing a few finishing touches on Bronfman’s lips. “It’s beautiful on Hannah’s skin, but this shade is truly universal.” She swears by the formula’s holding power, too: “When I tested this, I literally ran from 9 a.m. to 11 p.m. with only one quick touch-up.”

Dior Beauty/Hannah Bronfman

To keep the focus on the lips, Violette kept the rest of Bronfman’s face quite sparse, brushing a little taupe-gray eyeshadow over her lids. “You want it to look natural, not like makeup,” she said.

Dior Beauty/Hannah Bronfman

“Sometimes I get nervous, but for some reason I’m not today,” said Bronfman in her suite at the Hôtel Marignan. As for the evening’s musical lineup, she said, “I’m just going to go and see who’s there, what the crowd’s like, and come up with something. I usually play a good mix of things, like maybe some oldies and some new dance-y songs.”

Dior Beauty/Hannah Bronfman

For her hour-long DJ turn, Bronfman said, “I really wanted something to stand out a little bit.” Thus, a strapless yellow top was the perfect fit. “I thought that putting the accent on my face would be really nice while I’m standing behind a big black computer!”

Photos: Lauren Fleishman

Dior’s New Mani Man

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anatole-rainey-cropWhen Anatole Rainey, the freshly appointed Dior International Nail Designer, first came to Paris, it was to learn French. As fate would have it, he found himself behind the scenes at fashion shows and on shoots, putting his hobby—painting—to work for the likes of Cate Blanchett, Keira Knightley, Kate Moss, and Gisele Bündchen. “I just started helping out a manicurist friend and it kind of turned into a job,” he explained with characteristic modesty.

And not just any job. Today, Rainey splits his time between his native London and Paris, where he brings his considerable talents to Dior’s ever-expanding line of lacquers. “The relaunch of the Dior Vernis polish is exciting because I love color, shine, and shading. It has the finish of a gel, and the adhering power of techno polymer glass technology,” he said, bringing it all back down to earth with, “[This new formula] really grabs onto the nail.”

Rainey’s not giving anything away, of course, but already the limited-edition Nail Artistry Box (launching April 1 in Europe) makes it possible to paint Monsieur Dior’s favorite symbols—such as stars and clovers—onto the nail. (One of his favorite looks for summer: sailor blue stars on an otherwise transparent nude manicure.) “Some people love 3-D nail art, but I like to interpret it in a slightly more chic way. It’s more graphic and simple,” he said, adding, “Let’s just say there’s more to come than nail polish.”

Photo: Alexandra Utzmann

Beauty Etiquetter: Righting The Wrongs Of A Foundation Faux Pas

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Foundation-Faux-PasBeauty Etiquetter addresses your beauty-protocol predicaments with candid advice from industry experts and those in the know. To submit a question, e-mail celia_ellenberg@ condenast.com.

The Quandary: How do I tell my best friend her foundation doesn’t match, without hurting her feelings?

The Expert in Residence: Ricky Wilson, Dior Celebrity Makeup Artist

The Advice: “This is something that I have had to do on many occasions, and it is a very sensitive subject. I have tried a few different approaches. I sometimes ask something like, ‘Hey, did you go tanning?’ If the answer is yes, I say, ‘Oh, so you are wearing the same foundation? Perhaps you should try to deepen it with a little bronzer or blush.’ This normally prompts them to start asking questions like, ‘Is my face too light?,’ and you can easily say, ‘Yes, it’s a tad bit light, but it’s OK, because we know how it’s a big no-no to tan the face.’

“If you have a friend that is obsessed with being dark, so they wear foundations that are many shades deeper than their skin tone, you can say, ‘Hey, I read somewhere that foundation darkens as the day goes on. Also, I found out that it’s best to add color to the face with self-tanners and bronzer because going darker with foundation on a lighter skin tone will usually result in an orange cast.’ I would say that the only reason you are mentioning it is because you care and want to share the info you learned.

“Another thing that works is going on a girls’ makeup-shopping trip. Have someone do your friend’s makeup, and right after the foundation goes on, just start spazzing at how fantastic she looks and how the color of the foundation is a perfect match. Say something like, ‘OMG! I can’t even tell you have foundation on now. It’s so perfect!”

Photo: Studio 504/ The Image Bank/ Getty Images

The 411: Georgie Eisdell

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Georgie-EisdellAmong the few celebrities whose red carpet moves we have historically tracked closely for beauty inspiration, Carey Mulligan ranks fairly high. Besides being remarkably easy on the eyes, the actress has mastered the fine art of elegance with a twist, both in her dress and beauty choices, when she hits the red carpet. For the latter, Mulligan has Aussie-born makeup artist Georgie Eisdell to thank. Eisdell, who kicked off her makeup career in Sydney while still a teenager, quickly climbed the beauty ranks, becoming an editorial darling and favorite among a coterie of style-savvy celebrities including Mulligan, Dianna Agron (with Eisdell, left), Diane Kruger, Christina Hendricks, and Saoirse Ronan. With Gatsby just hitting theaters, the past two weeks have seen Mulligan pounding the red carpet circuit hard. “My favorite looks for Carey vary,” shares Eisdell. “Her skin is incredible so I always love to enhance that and give her an extra glow. She is quite a chameleon so it makes it very easy for me; everything suits her.” Eisdell’s go-to red carpet products for Mulligan? “Skyn Iceland Hydro Cool Firming Eye Gels; I use them on all my clients because they cool, de-puff, and tone the skin,” she says. “I love my Dior Skinflash Radiance Booster Pen, too. I use it under the eyes to brighten the area and it’s so fine that it doesn’t cake. Lastly I can’t do without my La Mer The Powder; it sets makeup and is kind of my secret weapon to glowing skin.” Here, Eisdell shares some of the beauty bets she reserves for her own big nights out—and the daily grind in between.

 

The Balm Par Excellence: Lucas’ Papaw Ointment
“This is from Australia and is literally the best lip balm on the planet. There is nothing that heals chapped lips better. It is also amazing for bites, burns, and it’s great to put on dry elbows. The other thing I love to use this product for is when you are breaking in new shoes: Rub a little on the inside of the shoe where it rubs, and you find yourself blister free with perfectly broken in shoes from day one.”
Available at www.newlondonpharmacy.com.

 

The One and Only Moisturizer: Crème de la Mer Soft Cream
“I cannot live without this moisturizer. It is perfect for every season; I feel like it injects moisture into my skin instantly. It feels light, yet gives so much hydration. It’s the perfect base for makeup!”
Available at www.cremedelamer.com.

 

The Desert Island Beauty Product: Bobbi Brown Bronzing Powder in Medium
“If there was only one product I could have, this would be it. This bronzer is so light on the face; it doesn’t have a powdery finish so it can be used over powder, or on clean skin. The color is perfect! It’s so natural and never makes people look over-tanned or orange. It adds the perfect amount of sun-kissed color to the face.”
Available at www.bobbibrown.com.

 

The Cleansing Necessity: Clarisonic
“This is the only way to wash your face fully. Other than it being a really chic looking appliance, it cleans the skin so well without being too harsh. It removes significantly more dirt, loosens impurities from your pores, and it leaves you so smooth and glowing.”
Available at www.clarisonic.com.

 

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