23 posts tagged "Donna Karan"
We first saw them last season at Chloé, where Charlotte Tilbury was crafting the “chicer side of hippie”: freckles—lots of them, stenciled across the bridge of the nose and onto cheeks, “just where the sun would hit you,” the makeup artist explained. It was a quirky touch that worked with the rocker chick, music festival vibe she was going for at the time, and one that continues to have legs for Spring. Tilbury has turned sun spots into a season-spanning affair, etching them onto clean complexions at Donna Karan in New York and Nicole Farhi in London with MAC Lip Pencil in Hodge Podge—and she’s not the only one making beauty marks. Val Garland reached for MAC Lip Pencils in Cork and Burgundy and its Eye Pencil in Coffee backstage at Jeremy Scott for her “Daisy Duke goes to Paradise City” homage, Lucia Pica chose its Eye Brows in Lingering backstage at Roksanda Ilincic, and just yesterday, Pat McGrath followed suit at D&G. It’s an interesting move, considering the skincare establishment’s emphasis on SPF products to prevent freckles from ever rearing their cute little heads. But since we happen to have a permanent faceful of them, we’re not complaining. What do you think of the technique: better left on the runway or totally worth trying come spring?
Since the nail art craze commenced two seasons ago, the old-school mandate of matching lips and tips pretty much went out the window (while a leopard-print pout is not unattainable, it is inadvisable). But there seems to be a backlash against all that for Spring, as corresponding lacquers and lipsticks are making a bit of a splash. “It’s quite eighties,” Charlotte Tilbury said of the practice backstage at Donna Karan, as she painted a dark burgundy-almost-chocolate pigment onto models’ mouths using MAC Pro Longwear Lip Pencil in Bittersweet—a near perfect match to Deborah Lippmann’s rich sanguine Just Walk Away Renee polish. It was a “sexy, strong” homage to Yasmin Le Bon, Tilbury said while pressing lips with a translucent powder to remove any semblance of shine (“I’m into matte now,” the flame-haired face painter declared of her lip finish of choice). For a nice dose of juxtaposition, cheekbones and lids were given a glossy sheen and Tilbury drew on a “splattering of freckles” across the nose bridge using MAC Lip Pencil in Hodgepodge.
The fierce makeup look worked with Karan’s collection, which featured tribal prints and body-con shapes; ditto Eugene Souleiman’s “sharp, sleek” ponytails, which were heavy on Wella’s silicone-based Shimmer Delight Shine Spray. “I know [Donna] and I know what she wants,” the Wella global creative director said as he sheared off the ends of long extensions with an electric razor for a straight edge. This season, that was a hint of Africa and Souleiman delivered with a braided leather cuff that he cleverly affixed with strips of Velcro and closed around the base of his updos.
Where had we seen this before, we thought to ourselves when we happened upon Wella global creative director Eugene Souleiman’s voluminous donut-shaped chignons at Donna Karan? “I’ve seen this shape before,” Souleiman concurred, “but I’ve never seen it with this texture,” a matte finish he’d created by prepping strands with a mix of Wella’s Ocean Spritz and its Wet Perfect Setting blow-dry lotion. “It gives a severity while having a subtlety to it,” Soulemain continued of the high ponytails he curled with a two-inch barrel iron before rolling sections toward the base of the updo and pinning them in place. “Grace Kelly with a modern twist,” Charlotte Tilbury offered of the backstage beauty muse of the day. And then it clicked: The hair was a near identical match to the Princess of Monaco-inspired look at Oscar de la Renta’s Spring show. Tilbury’s makeup job, on the other hand, was decidedly different. While Kelly’s icy blonde screen star persona was modernized with green eye shadow last season, Tilbury did her updating with a “marshmallow Pepto pink” pout, courtesy of three different MAC lipsticks in Flesh Pot, See Sheer, and Up the Amp—a color that was reinforced on nails with two coats of Deborah Lippmann’s creamy Valentine’s Day-appropriate Shape of My Heart. Skin was treated to a “Hollywood glow” from a mix of MAC’s Face and Body Foundation and its Strobe Cream, which Tilbury added for a luminous finish before building in shimmering contours with its Cream Colour Base in Hush. As for the eyes, they were coated with a wash of MAC’s Cream Colour Base in Mid-Tone Sepia, a tarnished beige color, and topped off with a slick of MAC Pro Gloss Texture for added glisten. A touch of chocolaty brown mascara applied to the roots of lashes and brows that were taken down ever so slightly with concealer completed Karan’s new age debutantes.
Karlie Kloss is probably best known for those brow-tastic Marc Jacobs campaigns and her impressive stature. At 5′ 11″, the Midwesterner towers over many of her cohorts, kicking her long legs out in front of her body for one of the most mind-boggling walks in the biz. Believe it or not, Kloss is also one hell of a good hand model. “I love nail polish,” Kloss revealed to us backstage at Donna Karan yesterday, where we snapped her in Deborah Lippmann’s Shape of My Heart, an opaque pastel pink lacquer, only a few short hours after she was spotted showcasing CND’s Dark Ruby at Carolina Herrera. “I love a bright red,” she said of her color of choice—”like an obnoxiously bright red. It’s like red lipstick; no matter what you’re wearing it makes you feel like Jerry Hall!” Kloss’ crimson wishes came true this morning at Rodarte’s prairie girls-inspired show, where Lippmann made a repeat appearance toting Jessica Rabbit, a scarlet sequins varnish that only Kloss and Kansas-born Lindsey Wixson were treated to. When we asked Kloss about her thoughts on nails’ newfound importance on the runway, she gushed. “It’s genius. It makes so much more of a statement than plain polish.” Her favorite ten-piece statement so far? CND’s deep bordeaux manis with extended gold smile lines at Jason Wu. “I saved them!”
“We live in fast modern times, and we have to simplify. And that includes how a woman gets dressed; what we’re absolutely not asking for is overcomplication,” Donna Karan told London’s Guardian a few years back. Hence her “seven easy pieces,” clothes that could go from day to night, from New York to New Delhi, upon which she built her eponymous label 25 years ago. To celebrate that momentous occasion—and the fashion world’s open-armed embrace of pout perfecters this year—Karan has released seven easy-wearing lipsticks inspired by her Raw Romance Spring show, all of which abide by the same underlying principles she adheres to when making a garment: “It’s gotta be comfortable. It has to feel good.” The universal shades include Tender Peach, a warm nude; Chic Pink, an icy mauve; Rich Raisin, a muted burgundy; Runway Red, a classic blue-tinged scarlet; and three iterations of deep berry in Modern Wine, Classic Ruby, and Black Plum. They don’t precisely hark back to makeup artist Charlotte Tilbury’s thirties sepia-photograph runway look from September, which was heavy on the cream-based pigments in shades of beige, tan, and honey, but we’re pretty sure any one of these bullets would work wonders at making your mouth that much more enticing for a New Year’s Eve smooch.