14 posts tagged "Dries Van Noten"
Faux bobs abounded at Dries Van Noten—all inspired by the forties-esque dresses and shoes in the show. Sam McKnight disguised models’ length by braiding the under-layers at the nape to form an “anchor,” misting all over with Fudge Salt Spray to create a matte texture, and wrapping sections around an iron to form loose curls. After a generous spritz of Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray was applied, the hair was divided into three sections, and each was tied off at the end with a band. McKnight then rolled up each piece and secured it to the plait that acted as a pincushion, allowing the shorter layers to cascade around the right side of the face. To play off the metallic pieces, he slid a flat barrette just behind the left ear to finish. “Dries’ focus for the hair was a wave, but the wave down was too glamorous. A small head somehow made it a little more masculine and a little less frivolous,” he noted.
“It’s just one graphic element,” Peter Philips explained of the onyx eyes at Dries Van Noten. “The collection is full of prints and bold combinations, so we wanted to do something that’s strong but doesn’t clash with the clothing.” His weapons of choice: MAC Chromacake in Black Black and Giorgio Armani Beauty’s Eye Shader Brush. A clean, angular shape was swathed across the lid and bluntly ended just past the corner of the eye—deliberately not bringing it to a point, which would make it feel “retro.”
It’s not the first time we’ve seen an artist focus on this aspect of the face this season—from Derek Lam to Roberto Cavalli, the eyes certainly have it. Philips’ reasoning: “If you do a lip or an eye, it brings the girls together and creates an army that represents the designer’s vision…It makes them almost anonymous because it overtakes the natural shape of the eye and becomes an accessory.” In comparison to Van Noten’s shimmery, silver Mary Janes that are now sitting on my Fall 2014 wish list, this lid look is an accessory I can definitely afford.
The man bun and serious scruff have made regular appearances on the red carpet in the past few days—usually working in tandem. Jared Leto sported the combo, as did Joaquin Phoenix, while Alex Ebert paired his scraggly beard with an equally unkempt updo. The Fall 2014 menswear runways seem to be following suit, with facial hair showing up on the catwalk at Etro and the lookbook for Belstaff. Yohji Yamamoto, on the other hand, has brought us an entirely new grooming trend for guys who are daring enough to dabble in color. Punky streaks of white, black, cobalt, red, yellow, and orange were splashed throughout strands that ranged from long to short—even distinguished gentlemen of a certain age got the Technicolor treatment. Dries Van Noten, taking cues from his Spring 2014 women’s show, also brightened up his boys, adding bands of what appeared to be paint near or along models’ parts. To the men who are reading, let me give you a few words of advice: These masculine, My Little Pony-like touches (bet you never thought you’d read those words together in the same sentence) are guaranteed to catch a woman’s eye—likely because she’ll want to know where you got it done. But hey, it’s a hell of a lot better than a lame pickup line.
This year provided a plethora of New Year’s Eve-worthy looks, and the man that pulls off glitter better than any other on the runway is Peter Philips. Always the master of invention, he created ear cuffs composed entirely out of crystals at Dries Van Noten for Fall, only to follow it up the next season with tinsel-coated lashes (accompanied by gold-slicked side parts by Sam McKnight). And at Chanel, he rimmed upper eyes with a flash of silver glitter that could be seen from every seat in the house. In our esteemed opinion, Philips gets top honors for the most dazzling displays of 2013. Now if only we had a sparkly statue to commemorate the occasion…
To see more brilliant looks, read “2013: The Best of Backstage.”
Peter Philips is known as the master of makeup invention, and when it came to the eyelashes at Dries Van Noten, he certainly spun standard string into beauty gold. After evening out complexions with foundation and powdering the skin, he dusted Chanel Soft Touch Eyeshadow in Ivory (a pearl tone with a hint of shimmer) to provide lids with “a bit of depth.” Then he added sparkle to lashes via metallic thread. “You can never find a gold mascara that does this, and [false] lashes look too drag queen-y,” Philips explained. After snipping the delicate cord into small pieces with a pair of manicuring scissors and dotting models’ natural fringe with eyelash glue, he placed the tinsel-like fibers individually with a pair of tweezers. To frame the face and make the eyebrows uniform, Philips traced slightly outside arches using the Crayon Sourcils Sculpting Eyebrow Pencil in a shade slightly darker than each girl’s hair color; taking away the curve and replacing it with an elongated and angular shape. Lips were toned down with a touch of base just before showtime.
Sharp side parts inspired by Tamara de Lempicka (an art deco painter with Polish roots) and Loulou de la Falaise (Yves Saint Laurent’s muse) were gilded with a mix of hair wax and gold leaf. Hairstylist Sam McKnight washed hair with Pantene Pro-V Aqua Light Shampoo so that it was free of product or shine that would detract from the graphic stripe. He used a steel tail comb to divide the hair from left to right, then worked Sebastian Mousse Forte through the top section and brushed strands behind the ears with a Mason Pearson. A net was pressed over the crown, hit with a blow-dryer, and set with hairspray. The length was left “raw” and misted with water to revive any natural texture. The end result was a look that would make King Midas proud.
Call it an offshoot of the overarching punk trend that swept the Fall shows, but a lot of designers showcased a single earring on the runway rather than a set. From the tiny gold cuffs at Chloé and the sprawling sapphire-dotted branches at Thakoon to the giant nails at Versace and the Delfina Delettrez-designed magic-eye drops at Kenzo, it was often one and done when it came to ear accessories. In an interesting turn of events, hair looks were frequently choreographed around this styling decision, leaving front sections slicked back or tucked behind these “bejeweled ears,” as Peter Philips referred to them backstage at Dries Van Noten. Now, it appears as though the movement is continuing down under. As Camilla and Marc kicked off Sydney fashion week today, Marc Jacobs muse Ruby Jean Wilson sported a rhinestone-studded spiked cuff on the catwalk, leading a pack of longer-haired models with their shoulder-grazing strands pulled away from their left ears—a festive way to keep unruly locks out of your face, if anything. Thoughts on the utilitarian style?