16 posts tagged "Dries Van Noten"
Flashback Friday is a feature on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Christy Turlington
The Moment: Bejeweled Lids
The Motivation: At first glance this may not appear to be a beauty shot, but look a little closer and you’ll be sure to spot Christy Turlington’s sparkling lash lines. Much has been placed on lids in the past: neon stickers at Atelier Versace; gold string at Dries Van Noten; neoprene at Fendi; lace, pearls, and jumbo glitter at Chanel. And Fall 2014 was no different. Makeup maestro Pat McGrath created incredibly beautiful “mothlike” lashes and brows at Alexander McQueen with hand-cut feathers, and used liquid latex instead of standard shadow at Dior. And seeing as eyes are the windows to the soul, why not add some extreme embellishment to attract even more attention?
In stark contrast to the loose, just-rolled-out-of-bed waves that a Givenchy-couture-clad Jennifer Connelly sported at the premiere of Noah in Mexico City earlier this week, the actress went back in time for last night’s red carpet in Berlin—showcasing a structured bob that was reminiscent of Old Hollywood screen stars like Grace Kelly (and the forties faux bobs Sam McKnight crafted at Dries Van Noten this season). Paired with a black panne velvet Lanvin gown, Connelly looked sleek and sophisticated after (temporarily) losing a few inches—inspiring us to experiment and pin up our length for an elegant evening out.
Faux bobs abounded at Dries Van Noten—all inspired by the forties-esque dresses and shoes in the show. Sam McKnight disguised models’ length by braiding the under-layers at the nape to form an “anchor,” misting all over with Fudge Salt Spray to create a matte texture, and wrapping sections around an iron to form loose curls. After a generous spritz of Oribe Dry Texturizing Spray was applied, the hair was divided into three sections, and each was tied off at the end with a band. McKnight then rolled up each piece and secured it to the plait that acted as a pincushion, allowing the shorter layers to cascade around the right side of the face. To play off the metallic pieces, he slid a flat barrette just behind the left ear to finish. “Dries’ focus for the hair was a wave, but the wave down was too glamorous. A small head somehow made it a little more masculine and a little less frivolous,” he noted.
“It’s just one graphic element,” Peter Philips explained of the onyx eyes at Dries Van Noten. “The collection is full of prints and bold combinations, so we wanted to do something that’s strong but doesn’t clash with the clothing.” His weapons of choice: MAC Chromacake in Black Black and Giorgio Armani Beauty’s Eye Shader Brush. A clean, angular shape was swathed across the lid and bluntly ended just past the corner of the eye—deliberately not bringing it to a point, which would make it feel “retro.”
It’s not the first time we’ve seen an artist focus on this aspect of the face this season—from Derek Lam to Roberto Cavalli, the eyes certainly have it. Philips’ reasoning: “If you do a lip or an eye, it brings the girls together and creates an army that represents the designer’s vision…It makes them almost anonymous because it overtakes the natural shape of the eye and becomes an accessory.” In comparison to Van Noten’s shimmery, silver Mary Janes that are now sitting on my Fall 2014 wish list, this lid look is an accessory I can definitely afford.
The man bun and serious scruff have made regular appearances on the red carpet in the past few days—usually working in tandem. Jared Leto sported the combo, as did Joaquin Phoenix, while Alex Ebert paired his scraggly beard with an equally unkempt updo. The Fall 2014 menswear runways seem to be following suit, with facial hair showing up on the catwalk at Etro and the lookbook for Belstaff. Yohji Yamamoto, on the other hand, has brought us an entirely new grooming trend for guys who are daring enough to dabble in color. Punky streaks of white, black, cobalt, red, yellow, and orange were splashed throughout strands that ranged from long to short—even distinguished gentlemen of a certain age got the Technicolor treatment. Dries Van Noten, taking cues from his Spring 2014 women’s show, also brightened up his boys, adding bands of what appeared to be paint near or along models’ parts. To the men who are reading, let me give you a few words of advice: These masculine, My Little Pony-like touches (bet you never thought you’d read those words together in the same sentence) are guaranteed to catch a woman’s eye—likely because she’ll want to know where you got it done. But hey, it’s a hell of a lot better than a lame pickup line.
This year provided a plethora of New Year’s Eve-worthy looks, and the man that pulls off glitter better than any other on the runway is Peter Philips. Always the master of invention, he created ear cuffs composed entirely out of crystals at Dries Van Noten for Fall, only to follow it up the next season with tinsel-coated lashes (accompanied by gold-slicked side parts by Sam McKnight). And at Chanel, he rimmed upper eyes with a flash of silver glitter that could be seen from every seat in the house. In our esteemed opinion, Philips gets top honors for the most dazzling displays of 2013. Now if only we had a sparkly statue to commemorate the occasion…
To see more brilliant looks, read “2013: The Best of Backstage.”