4 posts tagged "Emanuel Ungaro"
“I could do a book on ponytails,” Guido Palau joked backstage at Emanuel Ungaro, where he was fashioning yet another iteration of Fall’s favorite updo. It’s not a bad idea, seeing as how he is at least partly responsible for the style’s evolution from its super-sleek days as a mainstay at Calvin Klein to the “mod, but a little tougher” texturized tails at Celine this week.
At Ungaro, it was the “dominatrix ponytail,” which Palau debuted at Marc Jacobs. Coating strands with Redken Hardwear 16 Super Strong gel, he gathered hair on the top of the head, binding it with elastic, covering the base with a rectangle of black leather, and binding it again for a “severe” effect. “Higher! Tighter!” he advised his team.
“A little bit fetish, a little bit S&M” is how face-painting favorite Lucia Pieroni described the accompanying makeup look, which was all about the lashes. “Giles was strict with the red lip. This girl is wilder,” Pieroni said of Deacon’s two sartorial stories this season while breaking out tray upon tray of false lashes. After applying multiple swipes of MAC Zoom Lash mascara for a “cloggy, blocky” effect, Pieroni layered MAC Eyelashes in #8 (“long and spiky”) with #1 (“short and fat”) for length and density. She gave us a pro tip for proper adhesion, too: “surgical glue. Only a little bit. If the fake lashes are too wet, it’s a big problem. They have to be tacky.”
Adding to the fetish feeling were long red nails, taped on and filed off by Sophy Robson. “They’re talons!” Alana Zimmer said of Robson’s preferred length—or, “tapered, glamorous Tom Ford nails,” as Robson herself called them. It was a celeb-staple shoe designer who inspired her custom-mixed scarlet varnish, though. “I matched it to a Louboutin,” she exclaimed, referencing those signature scarlet soles.
We’ve talked about rich chestnut and mahogany browns, platinum blondes, and copper reds already this season, but seeing as how we are equal opportunists when it comes to hair dye, we would be remiss to skip that other catwalking staple, black. Stella Tennant famously embraced the raven hue in the mid-nineties (to the tune of a spike in bookings) and returned to its stark power for Nicholas Ghesquière’s Spring Balenciaga show last October. The modeling brigade’s latest poster child for onyx strands is Kinga Rajzak, who was feeling particularly chatty about her color of choice backstage at Ungaro this morning. “I had a short phase of bleach blond, but you really can’t have that,” Rajzak said of the harsh platinum dye process. “So I’ve been black for five years now.” (“I’m a little mousy gray right now, though.” she lamented.) The Slovakian beauty is a fan of self-application and treats her roots twice a week to counteract fading. “I have to wash my hair everyday because of the extensions and all of the glue,” she pointed out of the wear and tear from four weeks of nonstop shows. Her hair dye of choice? Boots Semi-Permanent Hair Colour in Ebony Black, which rings in at a very affordable £3. “I’ve tried other brands and nothing is as good as the Boots—believe me!” You can’t ask for a better endorsement than that.
Braids were sort of a big deal at the Spring 2010 shows, showing up in long, over-the-shoulder incarnations (Alexander Wang, Miu Miu), milkmaid crowns (Oscar de la Renta), and half-up, half-down fishtails (Doo.Ri) for most of the season. The plait popularity died down a bit for Fall and was surprisingly absent for much of the Spring 2011 shows, too, until the easy, nostalgic style got a big boost in Paris this week. It started at Ungaro on Monday, when Guido Palau made tight, middle-parted braid coronets, and continued at Valentino, where he channeled the effortless sexuality of French actress Emmanuelle Béart for the loose, long, three-section braids he centered down models’ backs. Then hairstylist Odile Gilbert picked up the torch yesterday at Hermès in perhaps the style’s finest hour, when it swung down from a sea of riding hats with occasional ribbons and scarves woven throughout the lengths. We were gifted a lovely Hermès scarf a few years back, come to think of it, and have been struggling to find an innovative way to incorporate it—unostentatiously—into our wardrobe. There you have it.
As the debate over the success or abominable failure of the Lindsay Lohan/Estrella Archs debut for Emanuel Ungaro rages on—click here to add to the discourse—the backstage beauty scene was significantly less controversial, as it neatly summed up two of Spring’s key trends: the continued dominance of the statement lip and sleek hair. This meant “couture lips,” as makeup artist Carole Lasnier called her homage to the house’s penchant for hot pink, which were built more so than applied. Lasnier alternated layers of MAC Pigment in red and fuchsia with its creamy, opaque Lipmix for a pout that was so thick it needed to be spackled on with a makeup brush handle. “The concept was no fake lines,” Lasnier said, “just color,” which she amped up with the high-shine polish of a transparent gloss just as models headed for the catwalk, pasties and all. For his part, Bumble and Bumble’s Laurent Philippon added yet another “dynamic” high ponytail to the season’s record books, dividing it into two sections and coating each with Bb’s industrial-strength Gellac before twisting them into a ropelike braid. To keep what he called the “pure line” of the style, Philippon covered the bottom with more gel for hold. You can mark our words that both hair and makeup looks will be popular with the Hollywood and international party set in the coming months, but whether they will actually be paired with Ungaro’s bright, one-sleeved numbers and draped white minis remains to be seen.