6 posts tagged "Emilio Pucci"
“Peter doesn’t like makeup.” It’s a tale we’ve heard before of the artistic director. This season, however, he wanted to “do something fun,” noted makeup artist Yadim. Pulling inspiration from the brocade (Look 43) and beaded pieces in the collection, he crafted a “modern-day Veruschka,” using a gold powder that he wet before gilding the forehead of ten select girls. “That’s where that desert warrior woman comes in,” he said of the metallic treatment. The majority of models were kept rather natural in comparison: MAC Cream Colour Base in Pearl was tapped onto the high planes of the face, a taupe shade was used to gently contour, and a beige shadow was washed across the lids and blended up into the brows before a shimmery brown lipstick was layered on top for shine. To provide definition, a black pencil was drawn along the water line, but not smudged. “This is very precise and strict,” the pro emphasized. Lashes were left bare and cheeks were flushed with Ladyblush, a cream formula, to help the girls “look alive.”
Dundas may have proposed a pony, but for mane master Luigi Murenu your standard tail simply wouldn’t do. To lend a “rock ‘n’ roll” vibe that still felt romantic, he worked Kérastase Mousse Bouffante through strands before blow-drying, then wrapped hair loosely around a one-inch curling iron, leaving the ends out. After the texture was in place, he divided the length into three sections and made a short, low plait. “One, two, and done,” he said, crossing the pieces over one another before tying it off with a band. “There are a lot of collars [in the collection], and this can be tucked inside,” he explained, pointing to the barely-there braid. With Eva Herzigova waiting for him at his station, he succinctly summed up the “strong identity” of the Emilio Pucci woman for Fall 2014: “She’s got a chic bohemian feeling, but she’s no hippie.” That much we know for sure.
Duran Duran, Madonna, and Daria Werbowy were all name-checked by hairstylist Luigi Murenu backstage at Emilio Pucci. So what exactly do an eighties English rock band, the Queen of Pop, and a supermodel have in common? At one point or another, they’ve all sported the pushed-over look he re-created for the catwalk here. Not only does a swoop over one eye provide instant “cool girl” status, Murenu elaborated, but it also builds volume without having to fire up a blow-dryer. For additional lift, he spritzed Kérastase Lift Vertige on roots and worked Mousse Bouffante through dry strands for texture. He used a one-inch curling iron to add a slight bend, wrapping sections from the ear down around the barrel. Hair spray was misted all over to set, while Vinyle Nutri-Sculpt cream coaxed out layers and created a piece-y finish.
“We have a definite image for the Pucci girl that we’ve been developing over the past four or five seasons,” said face painter Lisa Butler. “The makeup is very secondary to this whole process.” She went on to explain that the house’s creative director, Peter Dundas, doesn’t love foundation or color on the face, but Butler managed to use plenty of both in a nearly undetectable way. To inject drama and dimension minus eye liner, lashes, or lipstick, she added depth to the skin by mixing a foundation that matched each model’s skin tone with the deepest bitter chocolate shade MAC carries in its Face and Body line. It’s a technique she’s often employed on shoots but hasn’t brought to the runway until now. “When you see girls [in photos] and they look grubby and mean, this is why—it makes them [appear] more moody,” Butler explained—an effect an orange-brown bronzer couldn’t possibly produce. A blend of Cultivating Chic and March Mist shadows (beige and gray shades from the MAC Spring ’14 Trend Forecast Eye Palette) was applied to the lids, up through the brows, and along the lower lash lines with a fluffy brush. The same combo (with a higher ratio of beige to gray) was dusted under the cheekbones to act as a contour. Butler squiggled brow pencil on the corners of arches and took the edge off with a bit of blending to make them appear “fluffier,” then used the same pencil to lightly dot freckles over the bridge of the nose and under the eyes. In the Mode (a taupe hue) was applied to take down redness in the lips, and New Groove (a wine) was pushed into the inner rim of the mouth (both colors in the Spring ’14 Trend Forecast Lip Palette). The finished product was a “groomed but not done” tough girl—an aesthetic that lent itself perfectly to the slick leather, athletic mesh, and heavyweight-champion-worthy boxing belts seen on the runway.
We were told long ago, by more than one well-respected hairstylist, that ours is not a face that is suited to bangs. Which, to be perfectly honest, is fine by us. That’s the thing with fringe: Either you look good with it, or you don’t. But at Pucci this weekend, all 30-plus girls looked good with it, thanks to a few insider tricks courtesy of Luigi Murenu. Not only did Murenu bevel each hairpiece he clipped onto models’ foreheads to individually blend them, but he tinted and texturized their hair, thus creating a natural color gradation that combined everything together even more. “It’s the same thing I used on Bette [Franke] in the Miu Miu campaign,” he explained of the magic of Roux Fanci-Full Color Styling Mousse, a Sally Beauty staple that you simply rake through strands for a boost of color and a lived-in look. We’ve been fascinated by the idea ever since. It works best on lighter locks—blondes, flaxen brunettes, etc., and probably won’t show up on the raven-haired among us, Murenu elaborated—but it comes in twelve shades and is entirely temporary. “We washed it out right after,” he revealed of the auburn/burnt-copper color he gave Franke on set, and then just as quickly removed. It’s officially on our “to try” list for when we return to the States after the shows.
Using fake fringe on the runway can often go terribly wrong, mostly because the hair accessory usually looks, well, fake. But not when the task is left in the extremely capable hands of Luigi Murenu. Citing sixties-boho poster children like Marianne Faithfull and Jane Birkin backstage at Pucci, Murenu insisted that the heavy hairpieces he was individually beveling to frame each model’s face were “very now.” How so? The slight wave and artificial highlights he added gave the style an incredibly natural, lived-in, modern feel.
Prepping strands with Roux Fanci-Full Color Styling Mousse, which adds a temporary tint of auburn, flaxen, or chocolate to create raw contrast and texture, Murenu alternated between spritzes of John Frieda Refresh Dry Shampoo and L’Oréal Elnett hairspray to build a well-worn pieceyness through models’ lengths. Then came the bangs, which were precut and then shaped to fit individual foreheads. Coating his hands with Kérastase Elixir Ultime, Murenu slipped side sections behind the ears, leaving front pieces to hang down.
“We wanted to start again with her,” makeup artist Lisa Butler said of the Pucci girl we’re used to seeing here, who frequently relies on gloss and shine to make an impact. Not this season. Instead, Butler focused on incredibly mattified skin that was dusted entirely with MAC Mineralize Skinfinish Powder before turning her attention to eyes, which were rimmed with its Kohl Power Liner in Feline on the upper lash line, treated to a row of MAC 4 Lashes, and then lacquered with mascara. “It’s all black—there’s no visible flesh left,” Butler emphasized of where the lash line met the fringe, although she took care to subtly contrast lids with MAC Pro Longwear Paint Pot in Stormy Pink, a sheer violet, which she topped with its Lipstick in Plum Dandy, a frosted lavender, “to bring it all back to life.” Lining the lower lash line with a neutral pencil to open things up a bit, Butler employed an old makeup-artist trick on lips, which she sculpted with short strokes of tawny-colored MAC Lip Pencils in Oat and Cork—drawing a quarter-inch line under the center of the lower lip, up the middle, on the Cupid’s bow, and just at the corners of the mouth. “Don’t join [the lines],” she stressed blending the etchings with the same Paint Pot to create a “more modern” beige lip before using both pencils to draw on a few spotty freckles. “It’s like they’re in Hoxton and you’ve dressed them in mad Oxfam clothing—we’re hoping they look like that,” Butler elaborated, adding Venus in Furs, the Leopold von Sacher-Masoch novella and the Velvet Underground song, to her pool of references. Never have a nude pout and heavy lash been so loaded (and, incidentally, lauded).
There’s nothing we like more than when two of our favorite brands join forces for a collaboration that has “must own” written all over it. Spring 2011′s Loeffler Randall x Suno shoe collection immediately comes to mind, as does Christopher Kane’s recent denim line for J Brand. The beauty industry has not been without its own pairing of powerhouses, as Poppy King’s Lipstick Queen joined forces with J.Crew on a signature lipstick bullet last summer and word of Marc Jacobs’ forthcoming makeup partnership with Sephora spread like wildfire when it was announced last week. Next month will see the debut of another winning combination, as Pucci image director Laudomia Pucci and Guerlain creative director Olivier Échaudemaison release the French fragrance house’s new Terra Azzura color range. The entire lineup—which includes a bronzer/blush palette; an Ecrin 4 Couleurs Eye Shadow; a new Le 2 Mascara in Capri, a bright blue (very Stella McCartney Fall 2012); a new shade of Khol Kajal eyeliner in Blu Acqua, an intense indigo; three shades of Terracotta lip gloss; and two new Terracotta nail polishes—was inspired by Winter Capri, one of Pucci’s iconic archival prints that is laced with blue and green swirls. The theme is most visible in the Meteorites Perles d’Azure, though, which boasts Guerlain’s classic iridescent powder pearls in shades of sheer pink, ivory, tangerine, bronze, and turquoise encased by a mini tub emblazoned with the Pucci motif. The lid features the Italian designer’s original, hand-scrawled signature—as well as a series of implicit letters that spell out “must own.”
$58, available May 1 at www.neimanmarcus.com.