28 posts tagged "Estee Lauder"
“Austere But Sensual” Dark Lips Strike Again, Backstage At Anthony Vaccarello
Hairstylist Anthony Turner gave himself a challenge for Anthony Vaccarello’s Fall show: “How can you make something elegant, cool?” he asked rhetorically backstage while prepping strands with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Snow Mousse. “[Showing] the neck gives you elegance,” he explained, gathering lengths into a mid-center ponytail that he roughed up with concentrated spritzes of its Texture Expert Fresh Dust Dry Shampoo before twisting them into a messy knot. As for the cool factor, that came from Turner’s technique that included pulling out soft wispy bits around the hairline that were set with its Elnett Hairspray. “I always want the hair to feel very organic,” Turner explained of the style’s ease. “It keeps it young, and spontaneous; anything too considered can feel old.”
And these girls were meant to look anything but old. “It’s a little bit more strict this season,” Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux said of Vaccarello’s typically sexed-up collections, which featured a black and white palette that weighed heavy on metallic embellishments this time around. To add an “austere but sensual” touch, Pecheux devised yet another variation on Fall’s favorite burgundy lip. “The dark lip is good for that” he said of the deep color’s contrasting effect while coating pouts with Lauder’s Double Wear Stay-in-Place Lip Pencil in Wine, which he topped with a blend of its Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Plum Couture and its forthcoming Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Hot Lava. Its Lucidity Translucent Loose Powder in Transparent ensured mouths had a matte finish, which carried over to complexions as well. After initially hoping to leave the face just like that, Pecheux realized that models needed a molten eye to soften the hardness of the lip so they didn’t look like such “tough cookies.” Cue a double-time application of the Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Plum Couture, which Pecheux painted across lids and underneath the lower lash line before blotting with the taupe-y shade from its Pure Color EyeShadow Duo in Vanilla Pods.
Skipping mascara and any semblance of contouring or blush, Pecheux did design a nail look here for the first time. To continue the “vino” color of lips and lids on tips, manicurist Christina Conrad used Lauder’s Pure Color Nail Lacquer in Bitter Sweet and Fallen Angel, which she accented with silver moons courtesy of its as-yet-unreleased varnish in Smoked Chrome.
The Mulberry Mouth 2.0
Last Fall, the mulberry mouth was such an overwhelming trend that it became a season-spanning phenomenon, with celebrities, models, and the rest of us wearing the deep burgundy color well into spring and summer. As the Fall 2013 shows get under way, it seems as though makeup artists are intent on bringing the brooding hue back, although this time it appears to be much darker. Rather than give the new-era wine-stained pout a customary claret undertone, face painters seem to be turning to unlikely shades of black and brown to add depth, darkness, and a new twist on an old favorite. At Vivienne Tam, Maud Laceppe mixed MAC Lip Liner in Currant, a dark bordeaux, with its Lip Pencil in Nightmoth, a deep raisin, before blending in equal parts of its Lipmix in Purple and Black for a nineties-era punk sophistication. At Kenneth Cole, Romy Soleimani applied MAC’s Chromagraphic Pencil in Black Black on the outer corners of lips, before using a brush to blend it into the mix of berry pigments she had applied to create an ombré effect. At Derek Lam, Tom Pecheux dabbed the center of his glossy burgundy pouts with Estée Lauder’s Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paint in Sinister, a dark black, to simulate “voluptuousness.” And backstage at 3.1 Phillip Lim yesterday, Francelle Daly turned to the NARS Eyeliner Pencil in Mambo, a chocolatey brown, to add a richness to models’ mouths. Then, just this morning, Lucia Pieroni did her part to strengthen the cause by mixing two new blackened-cherry shades of Clé de Peau’s Extra Rich Lipstick, Mister Lincoln and Tuscany, backstage at Vera Wang. Commence imitation at will.
Bohemian Beauty Rhapsody, Backstage At Derek Lam
“The buzzwords were bohemian, minimalism, structural architecture,” Orlando Pita said backstage at Derek Lam, rattling off a list of inspirational terms the designer had provided him with as a beauty directive for Fall. To Pita, that immediately meant texture. “We’re braiding hair and setting a wave,” he explained, adding extensions to ensure a uniform thickness at the bottom while prepping three-inch-wide sections with Phyto Workable Holding Spray before weaving them into plaits and pressing them with T3′s SinglePass Flat Iron. Nodding to the freewheeling feeling of the late seventies, Pita center-parted strands to “make the face more symmetrical” and ran his fingers through the crimped plackets. Then, taking two pins, he secured front sections behind models’ ears to give the shape a sense of uniformity.
Estée Lauder global Creative Makeup Director Tom Pecheux was speaking to Lam’s aptitude for giving incredibly rich fabrics a sense of casual comfort, which he also related to a bohemian sensibility—one that is rooted specifically in California. “You know when you ask people on the West Coast why they live on the West Coast and they say ‘quality of life’? It’s that kind of feeling,” he explained of the “very minimal” makeup that still managed to have a few complex twists and turns.
Following a massage with Estée Lauder Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator and its DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme, Pecheux created a base with Lauder’s Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup. “There’s no brow, no mascara, no contours, no highlighting,” he was quick to point out, turning his attention instead to a “stripe of eye shadow” in varying shades of lavender, rose, silver, and gray from Est—e Lauder’s forthcoming Pure Color Instant Intense EyeShadow Trios in Smoked Chrome, Steel Lilacs, and Sterling Plums, concentrating the sheer, shimmering pigment in the center of lids to catch the light on the runway. Lips were slicked with a blend of Lauder’s as-yet-unreleased Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Burnished Bronze, a sheer caramel, and its Pure Color High Intensity Lip Lacquer in Electric Wine, a deep garnet, before Pecheux pressed them with his fingertips to create a stain. As a finishing touch, he took another finger-dab of its Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paint in Sinister, a dark black, which he patted onto the center of mouths to simulate “voluptuousness.”
Estée Lauder Keeps Its Eyes On The Prize
Tom Pecheux is often credited with starting the blue shadow movement that swept the Spring shows, but the facepainter was quick to decline the credit backstage. When pressed on why he used azure pigments at shows like Altuzarra, Derek Lam and Anthony Vaccarello, the Estée Lauder creative director of makeup would simply revert to the word “aqua”—the reflection of sunrise on a lake, or the light bouncing off of a pool—pointing to those optical phenomena as the inspiration behind his go-to color palette of washed-out blues and iridescent grays. The same visual stimuli also likely inspired Lauder’s Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paints, which just launched in stores last month. The glass pots that the makeup artist tested out in the fashion week trenches look like classic cream shadows at first glance, but once you touch them, it becomes clear that the shimmering, pearlescent pigments are incredibly sheer—all the better to build a shockingly no-budge wash of color with. The burgundy Cosmic, green Extreme Emerald, and pewter Steel were some of Pecheux’s runway favorites, but the creamy copper Chained has been on heavy rotation around these parts, as it is easily blended with stronger hues, like the poppy Neon Fuchsia, to create a multi-dimensional foil-like effect. Fingers crossed Pecheux will be testing out a new shade range of the lid lacquers at the Fall shows.
The Fab Five: Eye Candy
If the influx of shoppers and Christmas decorations on Fifth Avenue hasn’t tipped you off, the holiday shopping season is in full swing. The most wonderful time of the year ushers in a month-long frenzy of overspending and overindulging, the latter of which just so happens to extend to our daily caloric intake and our eye makeup preferences as well. Lids that were once neutral and bare often get a little sparkle these days, which can be done in a way that’s not too over-the-top for the glitter-phobics among you. Whether you sweep on a fine sheen of shimmering powder or blend in a luminescent cream, these five pigment pots and palettes should help get you into the festive spirit—if those limited-edition, seasonal red Starbucks cups haven’t already done the trick.
Four Play
Clarins Eye Quartet
While it looks almost too pretty to touch, this palette contains the perfect mix of subtle, luminescent hues ideal for daytime wear, as well a gilded chunky glitter/shimmer hybrid that can be built up into a molten gold finish.
Green Goddess
Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Loose Color Concentrates in Nori
OCC’s products not only boast a 100 percent vegan and cruelty-free tag, they’re also extremely pigmented and long-lasting. A splash of the loose glitter (available in 36 dazzling shades) can be used on eyes, lips, cheeks, or brows and contains light-reflecting mica for ultimate sparkle. We’re particularly feeling Nori right now, a dark hunter green.
Gold Standard
Estée Lauder Pure Color Gélee Powder Eyeshadow in Cyber Gold
Makeup maestro Tom Pecheux is the genius behind these incredibly soft, easy-to-use pigments, which have a silky-smooth formula that applies like a gel but dries to a powder. Bonus: Each one, like the gorgeous Cyber Gold, provides enough shimmer to open up your eyes yet still look sophisticated.
Purple Haze
Dr. Hauschka Eye Shadow Solo in Smoky Violet
A favorite of the style and celebrity set, Dr. Hauschka’s holistic skincare offerings are beloved for their soothing, skin-saving ingredients. Containing extracts of black tea to nurture the delicate skin around your eye, this talc-infused iridescent powder provides a subtle sheen and will help keep puffy eyes at bay. Also, this aubergine color makes makes hazel eyes pop.
Into the Blue
Maybelline Eye Studio Color Tattoo 24hr Cream Gel Shadow in Tenacious Teal
Feeling dry from the winter cold? Go with a cream shadow formula, which provides more moisture than powders. We’re obsessed with the boldness of this hue, which can be ultra-vivid when layered into an opaque finnish. Once applied, it won’t budge but is still easily removable after a long night of merrymaking.