46 posts tagged "Estee Lauder"
“As you can see it’s kind of a raccoon eye,” makeup artist Tom Pecheux joked. “It’s very big and smoky.” To get the look, he applied a heavy dose of translucent powder to lids before coating them and the lower lash lines with a combination of two shadows—Estée Lauder Pure Color Eyeshadow in Ivy Envy (a forest green) and the “petrol blue” shade from a trio dubbed Camo Chrome—using a big, fluffy brush. The rest of the face was kept bare to keep the focus on the “lake” of color that wrapped around models’ eyes.
Hair pro Orlando Pita channeled the “multi-ethnic, indigenous tribes” that served as the designer’s inspiration via a strong center part. To translate the concept to the modern, urban woman, Pita began by boosting body—blowing it out after applying Phyto Phytovolume Actif Volumizing Spray and creating a wave from the ears down with the T3 BodyWaver iron. Next, he polished the top half using a mix of Glossing Cream and Strong Sculpting Gel. “Combining the two keeps it soft but still gives you the hold you want,” he explained before pulling strands back into a tight, low ponytail and wrapping the base with elastic. For a “bulbous” finish, he laced the tail with a Mason Pearson brush—a happy accident that occurred during the test. “My focus is never for people to try to do it at home—I could care less—but this is something one could attempt,” Pita noted of his creation. “You’re never going to get it to look as good as this, but that’s why we still have jobs.”
One of the original supers, Stephanie Seymour has had quite the career—her legendary body caught the eye of many (including Richard Avedon and Azzedine Alaïa, to whom she serves as a muse) and quickly landed her appearances in the Sports Illustrated swimsuit issue and Playboy, as well as the title of Victoria’s Secret Angel. Over the years, she was also the face of multiple brands, including Dior, Valentino, Marc Jacobs, Revlon, and L’Oréal. In addition, her turbulent personal life made headlines of its own—Seymour was tied to men such as John Casablancas (who founded Elite Model Management, her agency at the time), guitarist Tommy Andrews, Guns N’ Roses frontman Axl Rose (pictured here), and billionaire businessman Peter Brant (with whom she reconciled in 2010). Now, at the age of 45, Seymour seems to have settled down (at least for the moment), landing the role of spokesmodel for Estée Lauder. It seems to be a natural fit for the beauty-obsessed fashion icon—her childhood goal was to become an Avon lady, and she penned her own guide, Stephanie Seymour’s Beauty Secrets for Dummies, in 1998. The first person Seymour called after landing the job with the cosmetic giant was her mom, who always dreamed her daughter would one day work for the storied brand. That Avon gig may not have panned out, but in this case, we think mother knows best.
Derek Lam’s aesthetic is much like his approach to the culinary arts: “He doesn’t like to mix too many things,” said backstage fixture and creative makeup director of Estée Lauder, Tom Pecheux—the face painter with whom the designer has worked with since his very first show in 2004. “The flavors are very simple—he always starts with the quality of the ingredient,” he added. So when it came to creating a collection of cosmetics (out in January) with the storied beauty brand, it was only natural that Lam wouldn’t be launching an extensive line of products. “He’s not the kind of person that travels with three suitcases—Derek travels with a carry-on bag. My makeup bag is one bag. I believe that I can make anything you want with what I have,” quipped Pecheux. Taking that same approach, they packaged the five essentials the modern woman needs to complete her makeup “wardrobe” from day to night—a navy kajal crayon, gold cream shadow, black mascara, tawny liquid lipstick, and shimmery champagne gloss—into a blue satin minaudière. This same set of cosmetic tools was used to create the trio of buildable looks seen on the designer’s Spring 2014 runway. “We could have developed [an entire range], but that’s not Derek and that’s not me. I’d prefer to have the right product, than a lot,” he said. This dynamic duo seems to share the same brain, with one exception: “He likes to follow a recipe, and then afterwards, twist it. I never look at a recipe. I go to the market and see what there is. That’s why I never ask him what he’s working on, so I don’t have too many things floating around [in my head]. The makeup is always the cherry on the cake,” Pecheux explained. Here, I interviewed both designer and maquillage master separately—only to find that they were almost always on the exact same page:
What was your first reaction to Tom’s interpretation of “minimal” for your Spring show?
DL: My first reaction was “Terrific!” because I know that when I work with Tom, even when I say something simple, or if I say, “I just want it to be a no-makeup face,” he knows what I’m talking about. So when he came to me with the idea for the three looks, it was amazing because that’s exactly how I considered the evolution of the collection and how it was going to be shown on the runway. He picked up on one of the [prints], which in this case, was the check, and he reinterpreted it for the eye. Seeing one element, and kind of evolving it is also really what I do.
Do you also ascribe to his theory on blue? He’s said so many times that navy is so much less severe than black.
Oh yeah, absolutely. That’s again one of those things that we both share. I love navy for evening clothes. I just think it’s so flattering and welcoming. It’s also very understated, and in that way, [navy is] a little bit subversive. It’s got an unexpected quality.
If you had to choose, what is your favorite product in the collection?
DL: I love the eyeliner in Near Night…It’s the closest to my heart in terms of if you only had to have one product a beautifully outlined eye is always the thing to do.
TP: I do love the creamy eyeshadow in gold. It’s almost like a chic, luxurious nude color. It’s not too brown and works on every skin tone. The navy blue pencil is going to be your best friend, or your worst enemy, because it’s so stable it can be tough to take off!
What was your inspiration behind the clutch?
TP: I like a coffret. I used to be a smoker, but I quit. I thought the cigarette holder was really chic. Derek was very excited about it—but cigarettes are not necessarily good things to promote—so he thought about doing a clutch [instead].
DL: I always think [about] adding an element of glamour. She could have [this] little clutch in her tote or in her bag during the day…then [take it out] for the evening. I think that shows the romantic quality and how we view the collection [being incorporated] into a woman’s life. Doing it in a striped quilting is a play on something that’s [traditionally tied to] sportswear, but also translatable to evening.
Is there a beauty trend the Derek Lam woman would never try?
DL: I think that it’s anything that’s obvious. For the runway, we do add hair extensions, but we don’t do false eyelashes—it all stems from the idea of natural beauty.
TP: We’ve never used anything fake…fakeness is not part of our vocabulary.
Can you give me a sneak peek of what you have in mind for the beauty look for Fall?
TP: We never talk about his fashion. As much as we are friends and really adore working together, we rarely talk about business. Whatever he’s doing in February, I have no clue.
DL: Oh, it’s so soon, and now we’re in the midst of it! But I think that colors are so important. Last Fall, I did a very muted collection, and even Spring was relatively muted—with only the hit of bright yellow. I hope that when Tom sees the board we’ll get inspired and we can do something really exciting or unusual for the face.
I can’t wait to see what you both cook up come February.
Estée Lauder Derek Lam Collection, available January 2014 at esteelauder.com.
Aerin Lauder, granddaughter of the legendary Estée and founder of her own eponymous lifestyle brand (Aerin), has added author to her long list of titles. Her newly launched book, Beauty at Home, allows you to explore her Manhattan apartment, Madison Avenue office with a view, and Hamptons retreat. Aside from sneaking a peak at her closet and reading about her tea parties at the Plaza Hotel (she’s somewhat like a real, live Eloise), you get a better sense of her aesthetic and how she brings that to her line of cosmetics, candles, fragrances, furnishings, and accessories. Whether it’s the mix of modern with the contemporary, a love of bold prints and textures, or her willingness to experiment with color—you see all of these themes reflected in her workspace and homes. And since a lady never reveals all of her secrets, I had a few more questions about what was hiding in her drawers and how she keeps her bevy of beauty products stylishly contained:
Is your dressing table organized like your grandmother’s? [One drawer for lipsticks, another for eyeliners, etc.]
No, I wish I was that organized! I like to edit my products. I keep one of my shagreen trays full of beauty products and objects.
Are there specific products that you keep in all places—your apartment, office, and country home?
Do you keep any beauty products in your nightstand?
Is there a certain piece of decor that your grandmother referenced for a particular cosmetic or collection?
Estée’s favorite color combination was blue and white—she used it everywhere, from her home to her product packaging. This constantly influences me. The Ikat Jasmine Aerin fragrance box (shown above) is the perfect example.
You love keepsakes, but don’t feel the same way about clutter. How do you keep your bathroom/vanity neat when you’re consistently testing products?
I love using pretty decorative accessories, such as nesting bowls, to store products.
Does your theory on paint extend to cosmetics? ["If you don’t like a paint color, you can always change it. The important thing is to give it a try. If you don't, you'll never know."] Is there a shade you’d never wear?
I don’t see myself in a dark brown lipstick. Some people can pull it off really well, but it’s just not my color.
What was the best tip you learned from your grandmother regarding home decor?
Estée taught me to see gold as the perfect neutral; as a result, I use a lot of gold throughout my collections—it makes everything feel more luxurious.
What about her theories on beauty?
Estée always said, “Everything and everyone can be beautiful if you just take the time.”
Naturally, grandmother knows best.
Last week, we called out nail lacquers that are in line with the cosmos and the high fashion times (like the gold Zodiacs wrapped around models’ necks and wrists, embossed on leather totes, and dangling from fringed clutches—all seen at Valentino). But if you can’t wait for these Spring 2014 treasures to arrive in store, you can pick up one of Estée Lauder’s twelve holiday compacts. Done in matte gold and featuring the brand’s Lucidity Translucent Pressed Powder inside, these refillable, astrology-inspired collectibles make powdering your nose in public a far more glamorous gesture. Plus, they’re engravable, so you can write a message among the stars for yourself or a friend.