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August 31 2014

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46 posts tagged "Estee Lauder"

Bohemian Beauty Rhapsody, Backstage At Derek Lam

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“The buzzwords were bohemian, minimalism, structural architecture,” Orlando Pita said backstage at Derek Lam, rattling off a list of inspirational terms the designer had provided him with as a beauty directive for Fall. To Pita, that immediately meant texture. “We’re braiding hair and setting a wave,” he explained, adding extensions to ensure a uniform thickness at the bottom while prepping three-inch-wide sections with Phyto Workable Holding Spray before weaving them into plaits and pressing them with T3′s SinglePass Flat Iron. Nodding to the freewheeling feeling of the late seventies, Pita center-parted strands to “make the face more symmetrical” and ran his fingers through the crimped plackets. Then, taking two pins, he secured front sections behind models’ ears to give the shape a sense of uniformity.

Estée Lauder global Creative Makeup Director Tom Pecheux was speaking to Lam’s aptitude for giving incredibly rich fabrics a sense of casual comfort, which he also related to a bohemian sensibility—one that is rooted specifically in California. “You know when you ask people on the West Coast why they live on the West Coast and they say ‘quality of life’? It’s that kind of feeling,” he explained of the “very minimal” makeup that still managed to have a few complex twists and turns.

Following a massage with Estée Lauder Idealist Even Skintone Illuminator and its DayWear Advanced Multi-Protection Anti-Oxidant Creme, Pecheux created a base with Lauder’s Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup. “There’s no brow, no mascara, no contours, no highlighting,” he was quick to point out, turning his attention instead to a “stripe of eye shadow” in varying shades of lavender, rose, silver, and gray from Est—e Lauder’s forthcoming Pure Color Instant Intense EyeShadow Trios in Smoked Chrome, Steel Lilacs, and Sterling Plums, concentrating the sheer, shimmering pigment in the center of lids to catch the light on the runway. Lips were slicked with a blend of Lauder’s as-yet-unreleased Pure Color Vivid Shine Lipstick in Burnished Bronze, a sheer caramel, and its Pure Color High Intensity Lip Lacquer in Electric Wine, a deep garnet, before Pecheux pressed them with his fingertips to create a stain. As a finishing touch, he took another finger-dab of its Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paint in Sinister, a dark black, which he patted onto the center of mouths to simulate “voluptuousness.”

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / Gorunway.com

Estée Lauder Keeps Its Eyes On The Prize

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Tom Pecheux is often credited with starting the blue shadow movement that swept the Spring shows, but the facepainter was quick to decline the credit backstage. When pressed on why he used azure pigments at shows like Altuzarra, Derek Lam and Anthony Vaccarello, the Estée Lauder creative director of makeup would simply revert to the word “aqua”—the reflection of sunrise on a lake, or the light bouncing off of a pool—pointing to those optical phenomena as the inspiration behind his go-to color palette of washed-out blues and iridescent grays. The same visual stimuli also likely inspired Lauder’s Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paints, which just launched in stores last month. The glass pots that the makeup artist tested out in the fashion week trenches look like classic cream shadows at first glance, but once you touch them, it becomes clear that the shimmering, pearlescent pigments are incredibly sheer—all the better to build a shockingly no-budge wash of color with. The burgundy Cosmic, green Extreme Emerald, and pewter Steel were some of Pecheux’s runway favorites, but the creamy copper Chained has been on heavy rotation around these parts, as it is easily blended with stronger hues, like the poppy Neon Fuchsia, to create a multi-dimensional foil-like effect. Fingers crossed Pecheux will be testing out a new shade range of the lid lacquers at the Fall shows.

Photo: Courtesy of Estée Lauder

The Fab Five: Eye Candy

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If the influx of shoppers and Christmas decorations on Fifth Avenue hasn’t tipped you off, the holiday shopping season is in full swing. The most wonderful time of the year ushers in a month-long frenzy of overspending and overindulging, the latter of which just so happens to extend to our daily caloric intake and our eye makeup preferences as well. Lids that were once neutral and bare often get a little sparkle these days, which can be done in a way that’s not too over-the-top for the glitter-phobics among you. Whether you sweep on a fine sheen of shimmering powder or blend in a luminescent cream, these five pigment pots and palettes should help get you into the festive spirit—if those limited-edition, seasonal red Starbucks cups haven’t already done the trick.



Four Play
Clarins Eye Quartet
While it looks almost too pretty to touch, this palette contains the perfect mix of subtle, luminescent hues ideal for daytime wear, as well a gilded chunky glitter/shimmer hybrid that can be built up into a molten gold finish.

Green Goddess
Obsessive Compulsive Cosmetics Loose Color Concentrates in Nori
OCC’s products not only boast a 100 percent vegan and cruelty-free tag, they’re also extremely pigmented and long-lasting. A splash of the loose glitter (available in 36 dazzling shades) can be used on eyes, lips, cheeks, or brows and contains light-reflecting mica for ultimate sparkle. We’re particularly feeling Nori right now, a dark hunter green.

Gold Standard
Estée Lauder Pure Color Gélee Powder Eyeshadow in Cyber Gold
Makeup maestro Tom Pecheux is the genius behind these incredibly soft, easy-to-use pigments, which have a silky-smooth formula that applies like a gel but dries to a powder. Bonus: Each one, like the gorgeous Cyber Gold, provides enough shimmer to open up your eyes yet still look sophisticated.

Purple Haze
Dr. Hauschka Eye Shadow Solo in Smoky Violet
A favorite of the style and celebrity set, Dr. Hauschka’s holistic skincare offerings are beloved for their soothing, skin-saving ingredients. Containing extracts of black tea to nurture the delicate skin around your eye, this talc-infused iridescent powder provides a subtle sheen and will help keep puffy eyes at bay. Also, this aubergine color makes makes hazel eyes pop.

Into the Blue
Maybelline Eye Studio Color Tattoo 24hr Cream Gel Shadow in Tenacious Teal
Feeling dry from the winter cold? Go with a cream shadow formula, which provides more moisture than powders. We’re obsessed with the boldness of this hue, which can be ultra-vivid when layered into an opaque finnish. Once applied, it won’t budge but is still easily removable after a long night of merrymaking.

Eau De Marni, Revealed

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After announcing last fall that she would launch her first fragrance—with Estée Lauder, no less—Marni creative director Consuelo Castiglioni has finally revealed more details about her house’s debut scent. “It’s for a woman who dresses for herself, who doesn’t follow trends but is sophisticated and also maybe a little eccentric,” the designer explains of the blend of spicy and woody notes tinged by an intense rose heart—all of which should sound familiar to the Marni faithful, who will be equally excited by the perfume’s bottle. Based on a flacon Castiglioni found at a flea market, the glass orb has been polka-dotted and topped with a red cap. “I wanted a bottle that was kind of traditional—that is, one that lasts over time, like the clothes we make,” she tells WWD. “It isn’t seasonal. I think this bottle reflects our concept—you want to keep it.” Ditto the Nick Knight-lensed ad campaign shots starring Raquel Zimmermann. [WWD]

Photo: Courtesy of Marni

The Envy-Inducing Beauty Of “La Parisienne,” Backstage at Anthony Vaccarello

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“What is amazing with Anthony [Vaccarello] is that in two seasons, he created his woman,” Estée Lauder creative director of makeup Tom Pecheux said backstage at the designer’s Spring show. And for most admirers of Vaccarello’s work, that woman is Anja Rubik in the pelvic bone-baring white-gown-heard-round-the-world from the Met ball this year. There was some of that here (see Rubik’s show-closing black gown), but as Pecheux rightly pointed out, while some designers are “showing a dream that is unreachable,” Vaccarello’s clothes are much more wearable this season—some of them, at least. So too was the makeup. Gone was the molten, burgundy-tinged black smoky eye from Fall; in its place, something much more natural. “It’s more like the girl hanging out by the pool, not coming out of the club,” Pecheux suggested—or, rather, the reflection of the light off a pool, an optical phenomenon that inspired his color palette of washed-out blues and iridescent grays that created “La Parisienne,” the kind of face-painting effort that is barely perceptible yet striking.

Fittingly, French-born Estée Lauder face Constance Jablonski was in Pecheux’s chair as he administered a massage using his trusty tub of Estée Lauder Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Crème and its Idealist Pore Minimizing Skin Refinisher that he topped with a finger-patted application of Lauder’s Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup and Double Wear Stay-in-Place Flawless Wear Concealer to create a base. Brushing its Pure Color Blush in Blushing Nude upward underneath cheekbones, “so the color fades into the cheek” and contours while providing a flush, Pecheux toiled over eyes, which he lined with a forthcoming aqua shade of Estée Lauder Pure Color Intense Kajal Eyeliner, which was blended out for just a trace of blue and topped with its as-yet-unreleased Pure Color Stay-On Shadow Paint in Sinister and Steel. A dab of its Pure Color Gloss in Opulent Opal added a light-reflecting effect meant to mimic the middle section of Vaccarello’s collection, which included “materials that looked like liquid,” according to Pecheux. Swiping glossy brown pigment on the inside lashes and a richer black color on the outer corners with Lauder’s Sumptuous Two Tone Mascara, Pecheux brushed up brows and created what he likes to call “the French kiss,” a nude mouth slicked with its Pure Color Long Lasting Lipstick in Vanilla Truffle, a honey-hued neutral, and accented with the slightly darker Barely Nude only in the center of pouts.

Anthony Turner sculpted “very French hair” in complement. “It’s confident in a very understated way,” he elaborated of strands that were spritzed with L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni.Art Volume Architect, finger-combed in back and dried with a large round brush in the front to get a little volume. “It’s cool but not grungy,” he continued of the sweeping side parts that he let fall over Cara Delevingne and Arizona Muse’s right eyes. “We’ve always done vampy hair here so it’s nice to do something that’s wearable,” Turner surmised of the coifs—which was a true enough sentiment. Delevingne’s hair, we could easily sport; the dress she wore in look 17, however, maybe a little less so.

Photo: Courtesy of Estée Lauder