14 posts tagged "eye makeup"
The sun came out for Stella today, as this morning’s downpour didn’t exactly make for a good garden party, the setting for the designer’s Resort presentation. And backstage the beauty was just as bright. Makeup artist Vincent Oquendo created three different lash looks in royal blue, forest green, and—on four select girls—a combination of both colors. It’s not the first time we’ve seen fantastic fringe from McCartney: Clumpy cobalt lashes made a serious statement on her Fall 2012 runway. And lucky for Oquendo, he happened to be on the team (led by Pat McGrath) that devised those spidery blue eyes.
Today, however, he crafted his own vibrant mascaras by mixing gel liners from MAC Cosmetics—combining Fluidline in Waveline with Chromaline in Pure White to make the perfect navy; and Chromaline in Landscape Green, Marine Ultra, and Pure White to cook up the ultimate emerald. Next, he painted his bespoke blends onto the top lashes with a clean mascara wand, working the product into the roots to build a strong base before pulling the pigment out toward the tips. “You need to have a good foundation so that your lashes don’t wilt,” he explained. Oquendo layered “at least” three coats near the lash line, then went back in with more color and combed it through to the ends—strategically separating the hairs for a “feathered” effect.
To allow the eyes to take center stage, the rest of the maquillage was kept relatively simple. Face And Body Foundation provided a seamless and dewy canvas, while a combo of Cream Colour Base in Pearl and Luna (Hush for models with darker complexions) was used to highlight around the tear ducts, the center of the lids, cheekbones, cupid’s bow, and chin. For even more sheen, All Over Gloss was dabbed lightly onto the lids. To finish, Oquendo reached for Cremeblend Blush in Brit Wit and Posey—applying both shades to apples and lips for a fresh flush.
“I used to wear blue mascara in high school,” noted catwalker Devon Windsor of the colored-lash comeback. “I like that you can’t really see it until you’re under a bright light, so you could actually pull it off every day.” We like the sound of that, too.
Flashback Friday is a feature on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Ewa Witkowska
The Moment: Shine Time
The Motivation: We’ve touted the merits of glitter before: The Fall 2014 shows saw the sparkly stuff applied to lip, lid, and beyond. Should you want to make an impact, we suggest taking inspiration from this image of model Ewa Witkowska and entering the extreme end of the shine spectrum. Backstage pro Pat McGrath reached for latex to adhere reflective particles to catwalkers’ eyes at Dior, but for beauty civilians, a less temperamental, metallic cream shadow provides plenty of grip. To intensify your look, brush brows up and set with gel.
We always enjoy a throwback—even if it’s not on Thursday. Zoë Kravitz toughened up her micro-pleated Lanvin gown at the American Ballet Theatre’s Spring Gala with a simple black dot on her bottom lash line, a move that reminded us of the strategically placed sequins at Givenchy’s Spring 2012 show. And while we love a quick hit of shine, for those of us who don’t have the patience to slice and dice silver sparkles to Pat McGrath’s standards, accenting our eyes with the tip of a liquid liner pen seems like a much more reasonable—and still very rad—option.
Peter Philips’ inaugural backstage voyage as the creative and image director for Dior beauty started out with a relative bang—sixty-six models, branded water taxis, and Manahattanites floating across the East River en masse. (It’s not exactly the Seine, but if you close your eyes and hum a few bars of “La Vie en Rose,” you could almost pretend you were in Paris instead of on your way to Brooklyn.)
“There is an expression of scarves [in the clothes] and there’s a lot of movement when the girls walk, but the shapes are very graphic when they’re static,” noted the makeup artist. To mimic Raf Simons’ sharp aesthetic, Philips used the brand’s forthcoming It-Line Eye-Liner in It-Black (out in June), carefully etching the liquid formula straight across the upper lash line and running a parallel band along the bottom lashes, dragging it out just past the outer corners of the eyes to exaggerate their size. Next, Philips topped the liquid with a matte ebony powder from the 5 Couleurs Eyeshadow Palette in Bar (on shelves in August), making the lines slightly softer and significantly more stay-put. Pearly pink and white shadows from the same palette were employed as highlights (the pink on the lid and the white between the lines on the outer corners), and complexions were kept equally matte and luminous courtesy of the house’s new Diorskin Star Foundation (available in September). The final touch for many of the models was a dramatic strip of false lashes—a concept that seems to have carried over from the Fall 2014 season. “It’s not a big makeup statement, but it’s a look that fits with all sixty-six girls and makes them stronger,” he said.
As for the lack of Resort-like brights, Philips noted that the “steady line” that runs throughout the entire collection is black and any color seemed to clash. “It’s Raf’s version of Resort, so it’s a bit more strict,” he laughed. In any event, if you’re taking a cruise to BK, I’d say a dark and edgy eye is the way to go.
From London to Los Angeles, it was all about liner last night. Across the pond for Kate Moss’ Topshop launch, model Suki Waterhouse relied on makeup pro Charlotte Tilbury and her crew (as did Moss, Cara Delevingne, and Sienna Miller) to amp up her look from an earlier photo shoot. “We had to do a quick off-on turnaround to do the right base for the red carpet,” said Tilbury. The face painter’s eponymous Rock ‘N’ Kohl in Bedroom Black was applied in a feline shape, then smoked out underneath with shadow. On the other end of the eyeliner spectrum in sunny California, Jessica Biel opted for a subtle, sophisticated gray etched along her top lashes only. Whether you want to channel that cool Cali girl vibe, or become a badass Brit, it’s apparently as easy as picking up a pencil.