36 posts tagged "Fendi"
“It’s about purity of line,” hairstylist Sam McKnight explained of the sharp and minimal look he crafted at Fendi. “Karl sent me an illustration with a very small head.” To keep strands compact, McKnight employed a lot of Sebastian hairspray and made two side partings on either side of the face, dividing the hair into two small sections near the crown. Next, he folded the sections over one another, tying each off into a ponytail with a piece of elastic. “It’s like a basket weave or origami,” he noted of his technique. Then the sides were scraped back to cover the elastic and gathered into a low pony, which was later wrapped with a piece of the tail to hide the band. While the style appeared seamless, it required “pins and grips” (which were pulled out after the hair was set into place) and at least two pros per model to create.
Playing off the linear elements in the hair, face painter Peter Philips opted for cinematic highlighting and shading over a “proper makeup statement.” Seeing as the collection was filled with stark contrasts—tough fabrics and delicate orchids; fluffy furs and shiny, sleek jackets—he wanted to keep the look strong but simple, so as not to clash with or overtake the clothes. A full-coverage foundation was used to perfect complexions before it was powdered to a semi-matte finish. Then he applied a pure white Mehron CreamBlend Stick on the cheekbones. Philips said he tested out a pearly illuminator but found the result “too pretty,” and these girls needed to be “tough.” A taupe, matte pigment was run along the hollows of the cheeks, and eyes were given a graphic feel with a blend of two brown Make Up For Ever shadows (#17 and #165) just on the outer corners. Not wanting a cat-eye effect, Philips concentrated the color on “the spot between the socket and the eyeball,” angling it downward, “like old photos of Marlene Dietrich or seventies Guy Bourdin makeup.” Lips were topped off with transparent gloss. “It doesn’t look natural, but 50 percent of the makeup will blend in with the light on the catwalk,” he explained. And Philips was right. With drones buzzing overhead, the intense, almost-theatrical contours disappeared—all that remained were models’ perfectly chiseled features as Cara Delevingne kicked off the show, a Lagerfeld-like Fendi bug daintily dangling between her thumb and forefinger.
The moment: Chic Hardware
The motivation: As we shift toward a beauty landscape that celebrates individualism, edgy looks like androgynous hairstyles, wild lipstick shades, and designer grills hardly raise an eyebrow anymore. But the statement at the Christian Dior Fall 2001 runway show was delightfully shocking, even by today’s standards. Models wore multiple studs and hoops through their lips, septums, and other unexpected spots on their faces. The bold accessories were paired with colorful hairpieces and graphic makeup. Designers continue to experiment with punk rock jewelry, like the ear cuffs at Fendi and the knuckle rings at Chanel Couture—and they’re even letting models keep in their own adornments while they work. One chic example: Katlin Aas’ cluster of earrings in the Helmut Lang Pre-Fall lookbook. Her piercings were a nice contrast to the classic colors and silhouettes in the line. With fashion month in full swing, we can’t wait to see what rebellious touches will be in demand come fall.
One lip look we can’t stop thinking about is the rich “blueberry” mouth that made an appearance at Ann Yee this week. One would think that the purple-blue pouts created by MAC senior makeup artist Fatima Thomas would look slightly hypothermic, but the final result was anything but. A similar shade was used at Fendi for Fall 2013, but here’s proof that it works just as brilliantly without the fox fur mohawk.
Flashback Fridays is a feature on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Models: Naomi Campbell and Kirsten Owen
The Moment: Cropped Cuts
The Motivation: Surfacing first at Marc Jacobs’ Spring 2014 show, where models were sent onto a wrecked-beach runway with razored blond wigs (made to appear as if a kid had cut into them), then again at Fendi, where choppy black mops reigned supreme, it’s clear that something big is happening with short, almost-hacked-off hair. Miley Cyrus was an early advocate of the look, and as we watched, horrified, Lena Dunham joined the cropped-lock crew on the season finale of Girls. For all intents and purposes, it seems that long, luscious strands are out, and short and shorn are in. Should we decide to go the same route, we’ll be taking inspiration from this Peter Lindbergh-lensed shot, featuring a baby-faced Naomi Campbell and Kirsten Owen sporting the color that’s now trending: platinum.
Similar to the way Myspace used to be the social media outlet of choice for musicians, many young visual artists and creative types are using Tumblr as a platform for self-expression. Phace-Side, a blog that recently caught my eye, features intriguing drawings of notable people by 28-year-old Brooklyn-based costume designer and stylist Savannah Wyatt. “I used to make blind contour drawings of my friends for laughs, and I thought it would be funny to draw celebrities,” she says. The simple lines and bright colors juxtaposed with stark white paper call to mind the face charts used by makeup artists to plan and document a look. “I love the way that designers, like Marc Jacobs, use hair and makeup to get their stories across,” she adds. Above, five drawings Wyatt created exclusively for Style.com, inspired by her favorite hair and makeup statements from the Spring 2014 runways.