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August 22 2014

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36 posts tagged "Fendi"

“Punky” In Purple, Backstage At Fendi

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The mulberry mouth that dominated the Fall 2012 shows is having a bit of a resurgence this season, although it’s popping up in a few unexpected variations. “Kiki de Montparnasse. That was the reference for the lip,” Peter Philips said of the burnt-purple pouts he masterminded backstage at Fendi, explaining that the vampy jazz-age Parisian artist and muse served as a good starting point for the conceptualization of “a retro element that at the same time looked punky.”

Keeping skin matte with Chanel Pro Lumière Professional Finish Makeup and a dusting of its Poudre Universelle Libre, Philips concentrated his attention on an equally powdery pout, which he coated with its Rouge Allure Velvet in La Provocante. “The brows are strong because there is nothing on the lids,” he continued, brushing up arches and grooming them with Chanel Crayon Sourcils Sculpting Eyebrow Pencils before lacquering nails with a complementary shade of Le Vernis de Chanel in Vendetta, a rich blackened aubergine.

Sam McKnight was going for a similar edge. “Punk’s an idea that has been floating around,” the hairstylist confirmed of one of the season’s reigning themes, which led him to prep strands with Pantene Pro-V Deep Moisture Soufflé before weaving a ridged, Mohawk-inspired braid. “Karl [Lagerfeld] loves a graphic shape,” McKnight continued of the creative process that evolved to include spray-painted fox-fur headpieces pinned to the top of models’ coifs to add an embellished element to the silhouette. Finishing the look with a mist of Oribe Superfine Hair Spray, McKnight left the length of his plaits varied—on purpose. “I love all the bobs,” he effused of the bevy of short haircuts models like Daria Strokous, Kel Markey, and Karlie Kloss brought to the casting. “I feel it’s a little old-fashioned to have everyone have the same hair for a show, anyway.”

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / Gorunway.com

Cut-And-Paste Makeup And “Aerodynamic” Hair, Backstage at Fendi

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Peter Philips likes to think outside the box. The makeup artist known for his way around a perfect complexion and a gorgeous rose-petal pink or red lip is just as often referenced for mixing makeup mediums—an embroidered eyelash here, a precious gemstone brow there. Blame it on his art school education. At Fendi, it was the latter inclination that, er, stuck. “The idea was to use colors from the collection, and the best way to do that is to use the actual collection,” Philips said as he glued pre-cut fabric strips onto models’ lower eyelids.

“It was a bathing suit,” Philips explained of the neoprene swatches in peach, teal, royal blue, neon orange, tan, and yellow that he placed beneath the lash line in a three-part system: “There is black on the bottom, pointed outward,” he elaborated, followed by a color strip in the middle, and a shorter, brighter piece on the inner corner. “After rehearsal, I noticed the blue really worked,” Philips said of why most models ended up with the same royal blue center. Otherwise, faces were left bare to appear “more young and playful” and less “theatrical”—a directive that came right from Karl Lagerfeld, who dropped by to pay his respects. (“I didn’t want to interrupt you; I just wanted to say hello,” the designer said to Philips in passing). Never one to miss a nail opportunity, Philips added to the season’s neutral polish palette with a nude-salmon varnish, the result of Chanel Le Vernis Nail Lacquer in Ming, a warm, shimmering pink, mixed with white and a few drops of its Mimosa, a sunny yellow.

The same pastel colors could be spotted in a range of embellished headbands that Lagerfeld made for the show to accessorize Sam McKnight’s “sharp, aerodynamic” updos. “It’s not soaking-wet,” McKnight explained of what he ultimately deemed a “malleable, sea-wet” texture, the result of strands that had been prepped with Frederic Fekkai Marine Summer Hair Beach Waves and divided into four sections. Creating a flat bun in the back to remove excess weight, McKnight folded hair over from one side followed by the other, which was twisted and pinned down. Having left the top section free, McKnight ultimately rolled that backward, attaching it to the finished coif. “There’s about 40 pins in each girl,” he estimated, “so we’re not advising them to go to the airport anytime soon.” Zing!

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / Gorunway.com

“Dark, Nordic” Beauty, Backstage At Fendi

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“Karl likes an eye,” Peter Philips admitted backstage at Fendi this morning—a partiality that Lagerfeld has certainly made clear over the last three seasons at the Italian house. And while following Spring’s gold and silver foil eye shadow was certainly no small task, Philips made quick work of it for Fall, painting lids with a “feathered” white brushstroke of MAC Lipmix. “There are white details in the collection,” the makeup artist explained, referencing the antelope furs specifically while scrawling a thin black line across the upper lash line with Chanel’s Stylo Yeux Waterproof Eyeliner. A few slicks of mascara on top lashes only provided a hint of additional embellishment.

“I need pins! It’s a big-time pin situation over here,” Lily Donaldson chirped from Philips’ chair, beckoning Sam McKnight to come over and fix her double halo of hair twists. “It’s a dark, Nordic look,” the hairdresser remarked of the style, pointing out that his sleek, embellished coifs were meant to be “almost Victorian, not fairy-tale.” Prepping models’ strands with Sebastian Forte Strong Hold Gel, McKnight created precise middle parts, separating out two low pigtails, which he divided into sections and “twisted like a rope.” “There’s a childlike quality to it,” he surmised, fastening small elastics on each twist’s ends before ultimately removing them for an “undone” effect. It was labor-intensive, to say the least. “We started at 6 a.m.,” McKnight divulged of the call time for the 11:30 a.m. show.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

Base Training

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Even though the tides of fashion week haven’t fully crested yet, it’s looking like certain beauty trends will rise to the top. Flawless, natural, dewy skin is among the standouts, which one might argue never really goes out of style, but is definitely in greater demand at the moment along with all manner of nude and buff-toned makeup. It’s fitting, then, that a slew of new foundations has just hit counters to help impart that radiant complexion seen backstage. Here, we rounded up the most promising debuts backed by science, paired with customized brushes, and available in a veritable rainbow of flesh-toned shades.

What: Clinique Repairwear Laser Focus All-Smooth Makeup SPF 15
Best For: Correcting uneven spots
Seen At: Spiked with peptides to plump fine lines and ultrasomes to repair UV damage, this youth-preserving foundation was road-tested backstage at Karen Walker, where Clinique global color artist Jenna Menard employed its multi-action benefits, which marry the skin-smoothing abilities of the brand’s hit antiaging serum of the same name (Repairwear Laser Focus Wrinkle & UV Damage Corrector) with buildable coverage.

$32.50, www.clinique.com.

What: MAC Matchmaster SPF 15 Foundation
Best For: Airbrushing away fine lines
Seen At: This fluid’s moisturizing demi-matte finish is pretty amazing, as makeup artist Tom Pecheux illustrated when he turned to its line-reducing, soft-focus powders to help blur the appearance of dark shadows and wrinkles backstage at Marni . Available in a full spectrum of 14 light to deep-dark shades, the foundation glides on especially well when applied with the brand’s two new brushes—the 193 Angled Foundation Brush and the 190 Foundation Brush for allover coverage.

$32.50, www.maccosmetics.com.

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Scent of A Stylish Woman

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Summer is not usually a time for new fragrance discovery. It’s just too damn hot, to be frank. But now that breezy days are becoming a more regular occurrence, we feel ready to start thinking about our Fall fragrance repertoire, and it looks to be particularly fashionable this season. Designers from all of the style capitals are releasing new signature scents and with fashion week right around the corner, we thought we’d devote a round of sniff tests to rag trade regulars dabbling in the olfactory arts.

Fan di Fendi

To relaunch its fragrance house, Fendi looked internally for inspiration, plucking the Forever buckle from its iconic Baguette bag to grace its new bottle. The fragrance itself is as rich as it looks; created by perfumer François Demachy it has a lavish blend of Calabrian tangerine, yellow jasmine, Damascena rose, and Indonesian patchouli that is noticeably long-lasting.

$76, available at Saks Fifth Avenue, 611 Fifth Avenue, NYC; (212) 753-4000.

cK Forbidden Euphoria

Billed as a younger, sexier version of the first Euphoria scent, it’s not just the notes that have changed with this fruity floral: There’s also a new face. Blue-eyed beauty Natalia Vodianova has been replaced by Brooke Shields lookalike Barbara Palvin. She continues the cK tradition of titillating ads; the sexual innuendo in this one is explicit, as per usual. On the skin, the perfume’s bright mix of mandarin, peach blossom, pink peony, and cashmere woods retains the sophistication of its predecessor with a new spicy richness.

$80, www.macys.com.

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