1009 posts tagged "Fragrance"
A party at the Trading Museum Comme des Garçons this week in Paris celebrated British milliner Stephen Jones’ second fragrance collaboration with the house: Wisteria Hysteria. “It’s truly the counterpoint,” he said, his first eau being a violet-based scent. “I really wanted to do something that wasn’t a rose perfume or a jasmine perfume, but something a bit more esoteric.” The wisteria growing outside his home in London served as the inspiration, particularly the second flowering of the bloom that occurs in August. “Where before you might have a thousand flowers, it will only produce twenty the second time—but the scent of those is extraordinary,” he explained. “They smell peppery, almost like a carnation, and they’re unbelievably rich.” Combined with the resinous oils that have become a CDG signature, the final aroma is warm but not heady, clean but seductive. The composition was entirely Jones’ vision, a rarity in the fragrance business. “I remember reading a book by Luca Turin where he talks about Sarah Jessica Parker going in with this oil and that oil [for her perfume], and they said to her, ‘You’re doing a white floral, babe.’” The celebrity scent, however, is about churning out hundreds of thousands of bottles for the masses, whereas this is decidedly more niche. “What people want is individuality, that’s why they buy hats. It’s not necessarily the hat itself but the whole experience: They love the box, veiling, and these little bits of finishing.” And if you love the hat honcho’s chapeaux, you’ll particularly enjoy the coffer (a scaled-down hatbox) stuffed with white netting that holds the flacon. The summer breeze that blows the alluring aroma through the milliner’s home may come and go, but this bottle will re-create the olfactory experience year-round.
$165, available at the Trading Museum Comme des Garçons, 54 Rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré in Paris, alongside an exhibition of fourteen Stephen Jones hats, including the first chapeau he created for the label’s Fall collection in 1985. The fragrance launches stateside in the Comme des Garçons boutique in New York City’s Dover Street Market next week.
Scent, more than any of the other senses, is linked to emotion—largely because olfactory receptors are directly connected to the limbic system (i.e., the same part of the brain that is associated with feelings and memory). In this short film titled Sillage that appeared on Nowness.com, directors Santiago & Mauricio explore the meaning of this perfumery term, which is used to describe the trail of a fragrance. In the video, model Sigrid Agren runs and leaps like a gazelle in vintage Rodarte, leaving glitter and flower petals in her wake. Her seductive aroma causes male models to form en masse, wildly chasing her like a pack of lions clad in black leather. “Scent is one of the most powerful and primitive of senses, as it is directly connected to our inner animal,” explained the directors. This film, designed to look like a “moving human painting,” is so much sexier than the Axe effect.
Fun fact: Frida Giannini, Gucci’s creative director, owns approximately 8,000 vinyl records. If you look at the house’s heritage and relationship to the music world, her extensive personal collection shouldn’t come as much of a surprise: Everyone from Rod Stewart and Eric Clapton to Beyoncé and Bruno Mars have donned the Italian label. The Fall 2014 collection that came down the runway today, however, was certainly more dolly bird than dark and dramatic rock goddess. There was plenty of leather involved, but it came in the form of swingy minidresses and flat Chelsea boots. Never fear, the brand hasn’t entirely abandoned its guitar-smashing spirit in favor of the London look: Launching this month is Gucci Guilty Stud, a limited-edition flacon emblazoned with—what else?—gold and silver studs (four hundred per bottle, to be precise). Inside, the oriental floral eau (Pour Femme) and spicy blend laced with patchouli, lavender, and lemon (Pour Homme) remain unchanged; it’s simply the exterior that’s received an edgy update. If you decide to swap out your black bomber jacket for a tailored, pastel peacoat (like the one worn by Kasia Struss in look nine), consider contrasting that piece of candy-colored perfection with a fragrance that boasts a bit more bite.
Gucci Guilty Stud Pour Femme, $80, Pour Homme, $88; sephora.com
“Your brain can be tired, but your nose is just a transmitter. The nose can never be tired.”
In other words, if I were to be a body part during NYFW, I’d like to be the nose. The French perfumer extraordinaire has his own namesake line containing over 19 scents, but he’s also the sensorial genius behind such hits as Carven Le Parfum and Acqua di Parma Iris Nobile. His secret to developing some of the world’s most beloved eaux is taking a break every two hours to clear the mind and working with the windows open. In New York, the open-window policy often poses a challenge, as many buildings see it as a safety hazard and opt for central air instead. “Scents are flattened by air conditioning,” Kurkdjian explained. “For example, the [same scents] are flatter in the U.S. than they are in France.” The key to crafting great perfume, it appears, is as simple as a breath of fresh air.
If you manage to make it to Valentine’s Day after trudging through the snow during NYFW, why not celebrate both the day of romance and the end of the Manhattan portion (well, almost) of the fashion marathon with this set from Fendi. The coffer contains the label’s latest scent, L’Acquarossa (a blend of tangerine, bergamot, magnolia, lantana flower, patchouli, and musk), as well as a lip gloss and nail polish to match the lacquered bottle—the brand’s first foray into cosmetics. Interlocking Fs or stripes may initially come to mind when you think of this Italian house, but the label currently appears to be quite taken with crimson.