8 posts tagged "Francelle Daly"
In today’s world of lipstick domination, the myriad product options can be dizzying. Between stains, lip tars, lipsticks, and lip balms—not to mention finishes that include shiny, matte, shimmering, and glossy—the options are literally endless. Satin finishes have caught our eye recently, though, boasting a semimatte texture that offers a best-of-all-worlds solution to the long-standing lip-color debate. “Satin-finish lipsticks do not have a lot of shine to them, which makes them different from a creamy or glossy texture,” explains NARS national makeup artist Francelle Daly. “They have a bit of moisture in the formula to help glide on the lip, but it’s not 100 percent matte, either. This makes it easier to apply, and they tend to stay put without drying out.” If this sounds like the kind of compromise you’ve been looking for, we’ve rounded up five of our favorite satin-finish ’sticks to help spread the lip love.
Peaches and Cream
Jouer Hydrating Lipstick in Meg
The beauty of a satin lipstick is that it feels so good. This hydrating formula contains Cupuaçu butter from Brazil to keep lips supersoft, and has a thicker formula than other satin lipsticks.
Lipstick Queen Saint in Bright Rose
Lipstick Queen creator Poppy King is known for her obsession with lipsticks, and her unique, cult-loved formulas. Her sheer, silky Saint line contains the same colors as her Sinner collection, but with 90 percent less pigment. Don’t let that fool you, though; one application is enough to provide full coverage to lips.
NARS Satin Finish Lip Pencil in Majella
There’s nothing better than a multitasking beauty product, and this lipstick-in-a-pencil means you can skip the liner and still achieve a perfect pout. The formula is incredibly silky and easy to apply, and can be patted off for a stain effect if full-on color isn’t your thing.
The Okay Coral
Dior Addict Lipstick in Exotique, available in May
With spring (hopefully!) right around the corner, this new tulip-pink hue is the ideal addition to your makeup bag. The super-sheer formula delivers an almost dewy texture to lips, and is so light that you almost forget you’re wearing it!
Chanel Rouge Allure in Envoutant
Chanel’s latest offering delivers their most moisturizing formula to date. The rich plummy hue goes on sheer yet is heavily pigmented, so two coats will give you full coverage.
When NARS national makeup artist Francelle Daly and Phillip Lim started talking about the beauty look for the designer’s Spring show a few days before it happened, they were keeping it light. “We were looking through the clothes, listening to Nirvana,” she recalls of the test shoot. “Then I remembered myself as the music girl, going to Lollapalooza,” Daly continued, which is when the lightbulb went off: clumpy mascara.
“It’s modern grunge—without the grunge,” she explained of the “sophisticated” face-painting effort that began with a base of NARSkin Luminous Moisture Cream topped with its Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer and a spot treatment of the new-for-spring Radiant Creamy Concealers where needed. Contouring cheeks ever so slightly with its Bronzing Powder in Casino, Daly brushed brows up and started in on those eyes. Working NARS Eye Liner Pencil in Black Moon into the lash line, she turned to her trusty tube of Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara and pretty much went for it. “I hand-clumped them myself,” she effused of the chunky effect of curling the lashes, applying one to two coats of glossy pigment, letting that dry, and then adding eight to ten more swipes.
Paul Hanlon followed suit with a matted-down side part and an exaggerated, volumized, almost retro rock ‘n’ roll quiff on one side that was rendered positively contemporary thanks to copious amounts of TIGI Queen for A Day Thickening Spray that he heated into sections as he blow-dried to create a frothy texture. “Make it really flat on the sides or else it looks like a bit of a joke,” he instructed his team on how to keep it current, poring over the minutiae of every last hair.
Lim ordered up a nail moment, too, courtesy of Essie celebrity manicurist Michelle Saunders. “This is the half-and-half nail,” Saunders exclaimed of dual-colored tips painted on one side with Chinchilly, a mauve gray, and Brooch the Subject, a cappuccino, on the other. It was a far cry from the chipped black polish of true rock chic, but that was kind of the point.
If you’ve taken a flip through the second issue of Style.com/Print, you know that we’re particularly excited about the proliferation of colored cat-eyes on the Fall runways. After classic black iterations of the winged liner technique made a big showing for Spring, makeup artists came up with all kinds of newfangled updates on the retro flick at the shows in February. There was Pat McGrath’s thick scrawl of cobalt blue at Anna Sui, Francelle Daly’s slick of glossy red at 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Romy Soleimani’s custom mix of Obsessive Compulsive Liptars in shades of chartreuse and mustard, which she multitasked on eyes backstage at VPL. But getting that perfectly clean point—no matter the color—is easier said than done. We got a good liner lesson during a recent chat with celebrity makeup artist Pati Dubroff that’s definitely worth sharing: “Always use a pencil first to guide the shape.” Cream shadows and liquid liners will provide more stark opacity, she admits, but pencils are invaluable as a first step to getting a catlike effect—which is why we’ve been loving Dolce & Gabbana The Makeup’s new Crayon Intense liners of late. Part of its new floral-inspired Bouquet collection, the six-piece range includes three easy-to-wield existing shades like the deep green Agave, purple Lilac, and rose-gold Shimmer, as well as three new “fashion” shades in Acqua, a bright azure; Mint, a seafoam green; and Lemon, a bright yellow. After you sharpen the pencils, be sure to round the tip, then trace your upper lash line at will (editor’s note: keeping a makeup remover-soaked Q-tip on hand to correct any slip-ups is key). The three new shades happen to look pretty cool dragged straight out beneath the lower lash line as well.
$29 each, available April 2012 at Saks Fifth Avenue.
Behind the makeup is a new video series in which Style.com takes you beyond backstage for an insider’s look at the unique creative relationship between designer, makeup artist and hairstylist at the idea conception phase. As you may have suspected, the glossy chignons and bold red lips that debut at the shows often see a series of incarnations before they hit the runway.
There’s detail oriented, and then there’s Phillip Lim. “I’m really hands-on,” Lim admitted last weekend when he summoned longtime collaborators, Nars brand ambassador Francelle Daly and hair stylist Odile Gilbert to his studio to talk beauty for his Fall collection. The meeting of the minds was truly something to behold: Lim took Daly and Gilbert through his designs piece by piece, shared his “neo-noir” inspiration with them presenting a Roy Lichtenstein photo as a starting off point for the makeup, and then sent them on their way to “search for magic,” as Gilbert eloquently put it. And the magic came…slowly. At fist, there was too much red in the “superhero” eyes Daly drew onto lids using NARS Lip Liner in Jungle Red and its Eyeliner Stylo in Nuits Blanches, which she dotted with a “special effect” in the form of its Triple X Gloss for an illustration-caliber shine. And the hair? Well, the hair vacillated between too soft and too sleek, until Lim actually took out a pen and a marker and drew the shape he was after. “I don’t speak the language [of beauty] so sometimes the only way to get there is to paint a picture,” he explained. When everything was said and done, Daly had used almost an entire tube of NARS Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara, which she had slicked onto custom-cut fake lashes, and Gilbert won Lim over with a texturized updo that she prepped with Kérastase Mousse Substantive and then fashioned into a curled under faux bob on one side with a long, straight section hanging down in the back—for the short term at least. When we arrived backstage at Lim’s show yesterday, he asked her to change the look one last time. “I had to do all 42 girls, in 45 minutes,” Gilbert exclaimed after the presentation. Magic, indeed. Above, watch the process unfold in real time.
Many designers, Phillip Lim among them, believe that every single detail is integral to a successful collection; you can’t have the right dress and jacket without the right beauty look to go with it. Lim’s Spring starting point was kites. Hairstylist Odile Gilbert’s? “The wind.” Coating locks with Kérastase’s new Fibre Architecte serum to create texture, Gilbert applied heat and tied the lengths into a knot, leaving four distinct strands out to be pinned to the side as though they has been blown back.
NARS national makeup artist Francelle Daly crafted clean skin and a metallic eye for a girl who was “edgy—a rebel.” Despite the bananalike shape Daly drew along the eyelid crease using a wet application of NARS Eyeshadow in Night Life, a silver, and the slate gray side of its Paris duo, it was not meant to be retro. “It’s not a sixties reference,” Daly insisted of that era’s preferred liner shape. “It’s geometry mixed with light and air,” she said, swiping a little bit of NARS Multiple in Copacabana along cheekbones and pressing a few fingertips of its new-for-spring Blush in Gaiety onto lips that had been taken down with concealer as she went. For a final touch, Daly painted mascara onto both the upper and lower lash lines, using NARS No. 2 brush dipped into its Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara. “It’s great for catching the short hairs,” she