August 28 2014

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10 posts tagged "Francelle Daly"

New Wave a New Way, Backstage at 3.1 Phillip Lim


phillip-lim“When I saw the collection, it reminded me very much of who I was as a teenager,” said makeup artist Francelle Daly. Apparently, the face painter had Siouxsie & The Banshees, Nina Hagen, and Culture Club on repeat, as those were her references for the look at today’s show. Daly focused mainly on creating a squared-off eyebrow—taking the shape straight across and lending a bit of a curve to keep arches less “robotic” and more “feminine.” Lids were left naked, lashes were curled and coated with NARS Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara, and a combo of Nico and Zen blush was lightly dusted in the contours of the cheeks with a powder brush. Nails were painted with Crossroads, an eggplant-like lacquer from the designer’s forthcoming polish collection with the beauty brand.

For hair pro Paul Hanlon, Bryan Ferry and David Bowie acted as inspirations, along with eighties Esprit catalogs and photos taken by Herb Ritts and Bruce Weber. Fellow stylist Didier Malige was also on Hanlon’s mind. “I’m a big fan of him,” he said. Hanlon began by working Moroccanoil Volumizing Mousse through the mid-lengths and ends, and misted Root Boost in front before blow-drying. A generous amount of oil was used all over for separation and a “sweaty” effect. “I put a lot on the roots so that you see the comb marks,” he explained. A thicker curl cream was applied to the top section in order to mold the hair back off the face before it was pinned and fixed in place with strong-hold hairspray. “It’s what they used to do [in the eighties], but completely deconstructed,” Hanlon said. I think we can all agree that a literal interpretation of this particular era wasn’t missed.

Photo: Sonny Vandervelde;

Backstage At 3.1 Phillip Lim: Washed Up And Ready to Party



When Paul Hanlon talks about hair, it’s never just a step-by-step—he takes you on an entire journey. It’s almost like listening to your grammar school librarian read a book aloud—except the semicircle is filled with editors aggressively shoving mini-recorders and iPhones in the storyteller’s face. And at 3.1 Phillip Lim, the tale went something like this (imagine this being told in a cool British accent): “I wanted it to look a little bit shipwrecked, a little bit Robinson Crusoe—like a girl that has been washed ashore. She wouldn’t have a comb, she wouldn’t have a brush, she wouldn’t have a hair band. And the back has this slightly dreadlock-y, crustaceous [feeling].” See what I’m saying? The visual narrative makes the style so much more than just a wet-looking, vine-y knot. And for the record, the hair was not physically drenched in water, as these are obviously very expensive clothes, joked Hanlon.

To get this “savage” and “elemental” texture, he applied Schwarzkopf Osis Twin Curl (a two-phase cream and gel formula) from the middle of the head down, and soaked strands from roots to ends in Grip mousse (about three-quarters of a can, to be exact). A diffuser was used to rough-dry, but not in the same way one would scrunch hair in the eighties—”more of an ambient air dry,” Hanlon explained. The front section was swept across the forehead and the length divided into two pieces and tied in a knot (or two, for longer hair), just as you would your shoelaces, and pinned discreetly into place. Elastic hair spray was used to flatten different areas against the sides of the head (as if the models had fallen asleep out of exhaustion once they finally reached land), and right before show time, Hanlon misted Flatline and Sparkler all over for serious sheen. “I like the idea of when [the girls] walk out, people don’t really see how their hair has been done—it’s more of a question of where have they come from,” he added.

The makeup was less gritty and more refined. Face painter Francelle Daly called it a “monochromatic techno look.” So what does that entail exactly? NARS Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer was mixed with a few drops of Copacabana Illuminator for extra glimmer. The Luxor Multiple was applied with fingers on the high planes of the face (i.e., cheekbones, forehead, chin, bow of the lips, and down the bridge of the nose) and set with a blue-tinged powder from the Iceland Duo Eyeshadow palette—lending an opalescent finish. In addition to mascara on top and bottom and brushed-up brows, the “cyber glow” was completed with a touch of Années Folles Larger Than Life Lipgloss (a lilac shade launching for Spring 2014) pressed onto the models’ pouts. I like to think of this total package as club kid meets castaway.


The Fab Five: Satin-Finish Lipsticks


In today’s world of lipstick domination, the myriad product options can be dizzying. Between stains, lip tars, lipsticks, and lip balms—not to mention finishes that include shiny, matte, shimmering, and glossy—the options are literally endless. Satin finishes have caught our eye recently, though, boasting a semimatte texture that offers a best-of-all-worlds solution to the long-standing lip-color debate. “Satin-finish lipsticks do not have a lot of shine to them, which makes them different from a creamy or glossy texture,” explains NARS national makeup artist Francelle Daly. “They have a bit of moisture in the formula to help glide on the lip, but it’s not 100 percent matte, either. This makes it easier to apply, and they tend to stay put without drying out.” If this sounds like the kind of compromise you’ve been looking for, we’ve rounded up five of our favorite satin-finish ’sticks to help spread the lip love.

Peaches and Cream
Jouer Hydrating Lipstick in Meg
The beauty of a satin lipstick is that it feels so good. This hydrating formula contains Cupuaçu butter from Brazil to keep lips supersoft, and has a thicker formula than other satin lipsticks.

Think Pink
Lipstick Queen Saint in Bright Rose
Lipstick Queen creator Poppy King is known for her obsession with lipsticks, and her unique, cult-loved formulas. Her sheer, silky Saint line contains the same colors as her Sinner collection, but with 90 percent less pigment. Don’t let that fool you, though; one application is enough to provide full coverage to lips.

Vine Time
NARS Satin Finish Lip Pencil in Majella
There’s nothing better than a multitasking beauty product, and this lipstick-in-a-pencil means you can skip the liner and still achieve a perfect pout. The formula is incredibly silky and easy to apply, and can be patted off for a stain effect if full-on color isn’t your thing.

The Okay Coral
Dior Addict Lipstick in Exotique, available in May
With spring (hopefully!) right around the corner, this new tulip-pink hue is the ideal addition to your makeup bag. The super-sheer formula delivers an almost dewy texture to lips, and is so light that you almost forget you’re wearing it!

Berry Best
Chanel Rouge Allure in Envoutant
Chanel’s latest offering delivers their most moisturizing formula to date. The rich plummy hue goes on sheer yet is heavily pigmented, so two coats will give you full coverage.

Photo: Courtesy of

Rock Chicks Unite, Backstage at 3.1 Phillip Lim


When NARS national makeup artist Francelle Daly and Phillip Lim started talking about the beauty look for the designer’s Spring show a few days before it happened, they were keeping it light. “We were looking through the clothes, listening to Nirvana,” she recalls of the test shoot. “Then I remembered myself as the music girl, going to Lollapalooza,” Daly continued, which is when the lightbulb went off: clumpy mascara.

“It’s modern grunge—without the grunge,” she explained of the “sophisticated” face-painting effort that began with a base of NARSkin Luminous Moisture Cream topped with its Pure Radiant Tinted Moisturizer and a spot treatment of the new-for-spring Radiant Creamy Concealers where needed. Contouring cheeks ever so slightly with its Bronzing Powder in Casino, Daly brushed brows up and started in on those eyes. Working NARS Eye Liner Pencil in Black Moon into the lash line, she turned to her trusty tube of Larger Than Life Lengthening Mascara and pretty much went for it. “I hand-clumped them myself,” she effused of the chunky effect of curling the lashes, applying one to two coats of glossy pigment, letting that dry, and then adding eight to ten more swipes.

Paul Hanlon followed suit with a matted-down side part and an exaggerated, volumized, almost retro rock ‘n’ roll quiff on one side that was rendered positively contemporary thanks to copious amounts of TIGI Queen for A Day Thickening Spray that he heated into sections as he blow-dried to create a frothy texture. “Make it really flat on the sides or else it looks like a bit of a joke,” he instructed his team on how to keep it current, poring over the minutiae of every last hair.

Lim ordered up a nail moment, too, courtesy of Essie celebrity manicurist Michelle Saunders. “This is the half-and-half nail,” Saunders exclaimed of dual-colored tips painted on one side with Chinchilly, a mauve gray, and Brooch the Subject, a cappuccino, on the other. It was a far cry from the chipped black polish of true rock chic, but that was kind of the point.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri /

Liner Notes


If you’ve taken a flip through the second issue of, you know that we’re particularly excited about the proliferation of colored cat-eyes on the Fall runways. After classic black iterations of the winged liner technique made a big showing for Spring, makeup artists came up with all kinds of newfangled updates on the retro flick at the shows in February. There was Pat McGrath’s thick scrawl of cobalt blue at Anna Sui, Francelle Daly’s slick of glossy red at 3.1 Phillip Lim, and Romy Soleimani’s custom mix of Obsessive Compulsive Liptars in shades of chartreuse and mustard, which she multitasked on eyes backstage at VPL. But getting that perfectly clean point—no matter the color—is easier said than done. We got a good liner lesson during a recent chat with celebrity makeup artist Pati Dubroff that’s definitely worth sharing: “Always use a pencil first to guide the shape.” Cream shadows and liquid liners will provide more stark opacity, she admits, but pencils are invaluable as a first step to getting a catlike effect—which is why we’ve been loving Dolce & Gabbana The Makeup’s new Crayon Intense liners of late. Part of its new floral-inspired Bouquet collection, the six-piece range includes three easy-to-wield existing shades like the deep green Agave, purple Lilac, and rose-gold Shimmer, as well as three new “fashion” shades in Acqua, a bright azure; Mint, a seafoam green; and Lemon, a bright yellow. After you sharpen the pencils, be sure to round the tip, then trace your upper lash line at will (editor’s note: keeping a makeup remover-soaked Q-tip on hand to correct any slip-ups is key). The three new shades happen to look pretty cool dragged straight out beneath the lower lash line as well.

$29 each, available April 2012 at Saks Fifth Avenue.

Photo: Courtesy of Dolce & Gabbana