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April 17 2014

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60 posts tagged "Frederic Fekkai"

Cut-And-Paste Makeup And “Aerodynamic” Hair, Backstage at Fendi

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Peter Philips likes to think outside the box. The makeup artist known for his way around a perfect complexion and a gorgeous rose-petal pink or red lip is just as often referenced for mixing makeup mediums—an embroidered eyelash here, a precious gemstone brow there. Blame it on his art school education. At Fendi, it was the latter inclination that, er, stuck. “The idea was to use colors from the collection, and the best way to do that is to use the actual collection,” Philips said as he glued pre-cut fabric strips onto models’ lower eyelids.

“It was a bathing suit,” Philips explained of the neoprene swatches in peach, teal, royal blue, neon orange, tan, and yellow that he placed beneath the lash line in a three-part system: “There is black on the bottom, pointed outward,” he elaborated, followed by a color strip in the middle, and a shorter, brighter piece on the inner corner. “After rehearsal, I noticed the blue really worked,” Philips said of why most models ended up with the same royal blue center. Otherwise, faces were left bare to appear “more young and playful” and less “theatrical”—a directive that came right from Karl Lagerfeld, who dropped by to pay his respects. (“I didn’t want to interrupt you; I just wanted to say hello,” the designer said to Philips in passing). Never one to miss a nail opportunity, Philips added to the season’s neutral polish palette with a nude-salmon varnish, the result of Chanel Le Vernis Nail Lacquer in Ming, a warm, shimmering pink, mixed with white and a few drops of its Mimosa, a sunny yellow.

The same pastel colors could be spotted in a range of embellished headbands that Lagerfeld made for the show to accessorize Sam McKnight’s “sharp, aerodynamic” updos. “It’s not soaking-wet,” McKnight explained of what he ultimately deemed a “malleable, sea-wet” texture, the result of strands that had been prepped with Frederic Fekkai Marine Summer Hair Beach Waves and divided into four sections. Creating a flat bun in the back to remove excess weight, McKnight folded hair over from one side followed by the other, which was twisted and pinned down. Having left the top section free, McKnight ultimately rolled that backward, attaching it to the finished coif. “There’s about 40 pins in each girl,” he estimated, “so we’re not advising them to go to the airport anytime soon.” Zing!

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / Gorunway.com

Backstage At Proenza, Where Simple Beauty Is Anything But

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Paul Hanlon was psyched backstage at Proenza Schouler. “This collection is quite exceptional—it’s beyond,” he effused. “These guys are always ahead of the pack.” This will be the hairstylist’s fifth season with Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, and at this point, he’s got the “Proenza girl” pegged—as well he should; Hanlon’s special brand of downtown cool has helped further define the designers’ woman. “She’s not a good girl, she’s a dangerous girl,” he offered—”whose hair looks like it needs a wash.”

With Kurt Cobain’s iconic, languid locks as his guide, Hanlon set to work on building a “vey stringy” texture, misting hair down with water and using his hands to layer Frédéric Fekkai’s Perfectly Luscious Curl Wave Activating Spray through the lengths. Every girl wore a stretchy latex, leather black cuff to elongate her neck, and rather than pull center-parted strands through the accessory, which he felt would look “too conceptual,” Hanlon had other plans. To give a “natural effect,” he braided under sections to remove extra weight and gathered hair into a ponytail, the base of which he spritzed with Fekkai’s Sheer Hold Hairspray. “We’re going to cut it right before they go out,” he explained of the elastic, tying mesh scarves on top of the cuffs and around the ponytail to further set the resulting indentation. Hanlon added a final “electric” element by using his fingers to rub the crown of the head for a frizzy, static effect, which created a further dichotomy between his contribution and the clothes. “You’ve got these incredibly expensive fabrics and hair that’s just whatever,” he said—a directive that came right from McCollough and Hernandez. “They’re really good at describing hair,” Hanlon attests. “I’m sure Lazaro was a hairdresser in a former life.”

Makeup artist Diane Kendal is a similarly longstanding member of team Proenza, and she too is well versed at channeling the house’s “urban feel,” which reliably calls for strong brows, smudged lids, and clean skin. Using MAC Studio Finish Concealer where needed, Kendal applied a nude-pink lipstick on the apples of the cheeks to get a sheer flush with a bit of sheen. Lower lash lines were then lined with its Eye Pencil in Coffee, which was also placed in the crease and blended over lids for a subtle stain. Skipping the mascara, Kendal’s finishing touch came via her signature “boyish” brows, which were filled in and brushed up. Even “real girl”-inspired beauty requires a few extra steps.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

“Very French,” “So Chic”—And Approachable!—Beauty Backstage At Joseph Altuzarra

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“I don’t want to create jealousy,” Tom Pecheux said backstage at Altuzarra, “but [Joseph's] definitely in my top three.” The famed face painter was so transfixed with the designer’s Spring collection, in fact, that recollections of the makeup test were a little fuzzy. “I don’t 100 percent remember [Joseph's] exact words [at the test] because I was hypnotized by his clothes,” Pecheux admitted. He did manage to retain a few key objectives, though. “We wanted the girls to be extremely sophisticated and perfect, but in a simple way.”

This translated into a classic Catherine Deneuve-meets-Yves Saint Laurent face treated with MAC Face and Body Foundation and emphasized with a “very French” accent in the form of a navy, not black, stroke of eyeliner. “It’s royal blue, and I think it’s so chic,” Pecheux clarified of MAC’s Technakhol Pencil in Auto-de-blu, which he drew along models’ upper lash lines. “No wings,” he reminded his team of the lines’ elongated ends, which he wanted to be straight rather than turned upward. “I didn’t want any retro feeling,” Pecheux explained.

When asked why minimalism is emerging as an early trend at the shows in New York, Pecheux noted that “you don’t want anything feeling too heavy, because life is anything but light right now,” referencing the American and French elections and the European financial crisis. “In a way, people want to do less.” Paul Hanlon was on a similar tip, as he became one of many voices to reference Helmut Newton’s special brand of nineties-era minimalism this week, which he mixed with clean, precise equestrian- and Japanese-inspired lines. “But it’s very simple,” the coiffing star stressed of the sleek side parts he prepped with Frédéric Fekkai Full Blown Volume Styling Whip, gathered into a low ponytail that he coated with its Sheer Hold Hairspray for a flat-lacquered effect, and wove into what he called a “half-bow,” not a bun. “A bun would’ve been a cop out.”

Hanlon concurred that requests for a certain kind of subdued beauty have definitely been bandied about by designers so far this season—which is a good thing for people looking for an entry point into the world of high fashion. “Sometimes, when there’s a reference in the look, it can be a bit untouchable; when it’s simple, it makes you believe you can be that woman”—a woman, it’s safe to say, everyone in attendance was envisioning themselves as by the time Altuzarra’s finale hit the runway.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com

And The Blowout Battle Rages On

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The blow-out bar concept is well-charted territory. Between Blow and Drybar, you can get your hair straightened, smoothed, volumized, and “beach waved” all over the city. And while few of the Big Apple’s beauty bigwigs have jumped aboard the budget blow-dry service phenomenon, keeping their services hard to come by (and often hard on the pocketbook), Frédéric Fekkai is ready to get in on the action. “Blow-outs are part of Fekkai’s salon heritage,” the hair hero insists, explaining his new Summer Style Blow Out Bar concept. “We were the first to offer the blow-out regimen to New Yorkers with our signature blow-out. With the Summer Style Blow Out Bar, we want to offer accessible style to more women who are on the go and pressed for time.” How, you ask? By opening the doors to his Fifth Avenue Salon at Henri Bendel’s this summer from 7:30 to 11:30 a.m. and offering five classic blow-out styles for a mere $50. “[Our customer] may be on her way to work, coming from the gym or running to an event, but she knows her hair makes a big statement about her style and is looking for a quality service and a chic look that will last,” Fekkai explains, detailing the extent of his menu, which includes the straight and sleek New Yorker, the voluminous Dallas Chic, the loose, wavy Hollywood Glam, the supple, shiny Palm Beach Polish, and the beachy St. Barth’s Sexy. Things kick off May 24 and will only run through the end of August—for now. “We envisioned the concept as a whimsical summer pop-up and will see how it goes from there.” Fingers crossed it’s still around when fashion week starts up again in September.

Frédéric Fekkai Summer Style Blow Out Bar, Atrium balcony Henri Bendel, 712 Fifth Ave., NYC; for appointments, call (212) 753-9500.

Photo: Courtesy of Frederic Fekkai

Frédéric Fekkai Is Ready For Summer

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With golden-streaked, wavy-haired blondes like Gisele and Blake Lively collectively blanketing magazines, television sets, and movie screens for the better part of the last decade, requests for “beach hair” have been monopolizing salon professionals’ time of late. But getting those perfect, sun-kissed, texturized strands takes more than just a few designated pumps of salt spray, which is why Frédéric Fekkai debuted his Summer Hair line last year. The range began with the Fekkai Beach Waves, a lightweight spritz that allows for expert tousling, along with the Smooth Sailing Anti-Frizz Cream, which leaves hair super-soft and manageable while deflecting humidity and imparting a noticeable luster. Now, in an effort to update and round out the collection, the New York-based mane man has adjusted his original formulas and released two brand-new offerings. The After Sun Daily Mask addresses your deep-conditioning needs following a day spent in the sand and surf, while the Cooling Shine Mist provides UV protection and an instant dose of refreshing sheen, courtesy of peppermint oil and marine botanicals. The Mist will make an excellent, easy-to-apply addition to your beach bag, which, if you’re anything like us, you’ve already started mentally packing to pass the time while spring’s cold rain transitions into summer.

Photo: Courtesy of Frédéric Fekkai Is Ready For Summer