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July 31 2014

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11 posts tagged "Georgina Chapman"

Split Personality Princesses, Backstage at Marchesa

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“It’s a modern take on an eccentric princess,” said Gucci Westman of the floating liner at Marchesa. “She has flawless skin and she’s only done one thing—that being an eyeliner.” To achieve it, Westman employed two jewel-tone shades and two different formulas, applying the Revlon ColorStay Crème Gel Eye Liner in Jade or Rio Blue (out in April) just above the crease, and layering it with a corresponding stripe of ColorStay Skinny Liquid Liner (available in June) in Green Spark or Electric Blue. Lashes were coated with a “tiny bit” of mascara and the tops of the cheekbones dabbed with Skinlights Face Illuminator. “Her outfit probably took much longer to put on than the makeup,” Westman quipped of her beauty muse.

Similar to Westman, hair pro Mark Hampton created two different looks—but instead of making a minor color tweak, he crafted completely different styles. The first was a series of tight cornrows done on the dark-haired models. Unlike Adam Selman’s use of braids earlier in the week, these were decidedly less Snoop Dogg and more “Highland girl,” Hampton explained. After he crafted five inverted braids at the crown, he gathered the length into a low-slung ponytail. His reasoning behind the recent resurgence of this particular plait: “They stop something from being too romantic and [provide] a younger, youth-culture vibe.”

The second look, for the blonds and gingers, was a “bad ballerina knot.” Hampton prepped strands with Toni&Guy Hair Meet Wardrobe Casual Sea Salt Texturising Spray for texture before pulling it all back into a high pony and winding it into a messy chignon. Wisps around the hairline were created with a small curling iron and topped off with Casual Flexible Hold Hairspray. As for why he doubled up on the dos: “[Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig] wanted to portray two different characters—one is a little bit more aggressive and the other is a little softer—and carry that thought across with the hair.”

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Photos: Getty; Courtesy of Toni&Guy Hair Meet Wardrobe

Marchesa Rolls Out the Red Carpet

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marchesa-revlonThe cofounders of Marchesa, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, took a beauty break from preparing for their forthcoming Fall show to celebrate their “Red Carpet” cosmetics collection with Revlon. Consisting of three nail lacquers, a trio of lipsticks, translucent powder, black liquid liner, and gold nail appliqués, it’s only natural that all the pieces were inspired by the label’s staple: the evening gown. “We wanted to reflect three different moods for what we feel the Marchesa woman could be: You have your romantic lip, your bold statement lip in the red, and then you have your vampy lip, which is very much taken from our Spring/Summer collection,” Chapman explained of the Pink Cognito, Love That Red, and Black Cherry shades. In addition, each bullet has a complementing nail polish: Gray Suede (a tulle-like nude with a hint of silver shimmer), Chameleon (a holographic green), and Valentine (a rich burgundy). The gold lattice pattern stamped on the packaging was inspired by the many “lace-heavy” pieces seen on last season’s runway. “We’d already done the embroidery on the nails, so we thought it was nice to reflect the other quality of Marchesa,” said Craig. As for whether or not these tubes and bottles will be used backstage in a little less than two weeks, they’re leaving that decision up to their go-to makeup artist, Gucci Westman. And when asked if feathers and tattoos would be making an encore, both Chapman and Craig turned to each other and laughed, “There’s usually a feather or two.”

Revlon by Marchesa Red Carpet Collection available in February.

Marchesa and Revlon: A Trend that Will Stick

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Last night, surrounded by Marchesa gowns from various seasons, I caught up with the co-founders of the label, Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig, to discuss their latest partnership and collection with Revlon, 3D Jewel Appliqués.

How did you decide which dresses were worthy of being worn on fingertips?

KC: It was quite a hard decision, but we whittled it down. We obviously didn’t want any of them to cannibalize each other, so each one has it’s own feeling, with different colors and textures.

What aspects of your design aesthetic were you specifically looking to translate onto stickers?

GC: For us, it was about getting the intricacies of the embroideries onto the nail, and what we’re really thrilled about is how they’ve managed to achieve this—if you feel them, they’re very 3-D. As Keren said, it was about finding embroideries that represented [various] parts of Marchesa, so that each [pattern] had a different point of view.

I know we’re here to talk about nails, but those temporary tattoos that made their way down your Spring 2014 runway, are those coming to the masses anytime soon?

KC: Oh, that would be fun!
GC: But you’ll have to ask Revlon, and Scott [Campbell].

So, should we expect to see nail appliqués backstage that match your designs next season?

KC: Maybe. Oh my, that’s right around the corner.

Is this your solution for every woman who dreams of wearing one of your dresses?

KC: What’s fun about them is that they’re great with just a jean and a T-shirt.

True—for those days you can’t saunter down the street in a ball gown.

Revlon by Marchesa 3D Jewel Appliqués, $10 each.

Photo: Courtesy of Revlon

Marchesa Makes Its Mark

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marchesa-ss-2014-runway-tattooWe always expect to see plenty of feminine frippery at Marchesa, but inked-up models? Not the first thought that comes to mind. Yes, co-founders Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig added some edge to their Fall 2010 collection with tattoo-printed tights, but this year they went for the real deal (well…almost) with butterflies and roses temporarily stamped on a handful of models’ wrists, arms, shoulders, and necks. The duo implored renowned New York-based tattoo artist Scott Campbell to create the delicate designs. (He is Marc Jacobs’ go-to guy, branding the boys in Louis Vuitton’s Spring 2011 menswear show; and new husband to actress Lake Bell, responsible for her recent New York magazine cover, where she appeared wearing only a gray bloom that stretched from her left thigh to her right shoulder.)

As a thank-you to Craig and Chapman, who created Bell’s bridal gown, Campbell drew up more than twenty different water-transferable patterns to enhance the plethora of tulle, organza, and lace that made its way down the runway. “It’s a way of interpreting a very soft, girly subject matter in a more assertive way,” said Campbell. And even though this is far from his first rose rodeo, he said he’s not entirely jaded by the somewhat cliché flower—at least not yet: “Drawing roses is kind of like repeating a mantra; I really love them.” And with so many models putting their own stamp on things these days—from mainstays like Catherine McNeil and Erin Wasson to women on the rise—the tats that gently scaled the bodies at yesterday’s show not only made an impression but also seemed perfectly at home in the world of high fashion.

Photo: Fabio Iona / Indigitalimages.com

Eau De Marchesa

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Marchesa’s Georgina Chapman has had her hands in a few different honey pots of late. Following the launch of a capsule makeup collection for Le Métier de Beauté a few years back, Canon just announced that Chapman would join Ron Howard’s Project Imagina8ion as the guest director of a short film that will premiere at Project Imaginat10n, the first photography-inspired film festival, next year. Also on her agenda: a new fragrance with Sephora. “We thought it was such a simple idea—and we really loved the idea of the collaborative spirit,” Chapman said at a dinner at New York’s Crown restaurant this week to fête the arrival of Parfum d’Extase, the first fragrance from the fashion house she built with Marchesa co-founder Keren Craig. Taking into account the design duo’s knack for red carpet-ready gowns, it should come as no surprise that the iris root, freesia, violet leaf, night-blooming jasmine, and ambrox eau is meant to be the epitome of luxury—or that Chapman herself has always kept it pretty classy when it comes to signature scents. “I think my first fragrance was Opium in the eighties,” she admits (no brief love affairs with Bath & Body Works’ treasure trove of teen queen fruity florals here). But it’s the scent’s olfactory intrigue that Chapman is most excited about. “We came up with the story of what we wanted [it] to encapsulate, to feel sensual and feminine yet still embrace and celebrate the wearer’s unique style and sensibility, and then we did blind smellings,” she recalls. “We smelled about ten different scents and this one had a mystery. It was a bit intoxicating.” Less deliberation went into the bottle, which Chapman had “a clear idea about” from the get-go: Designed by Malin Ericson of the creative agency Vanessa Stevens + Company, the flacon evokes a raw, bejeweled quartz crystal, its faceted topper a near exact match of a Marchesa minaudière clasp. It’s another phase of what will hopefully be many more crossover efforts from Chapman, although she’s keeping mum on her next move. “We’ll just have to wait and see what happens.”

Photo: Courtesy of Sephora