21 posts tagged "Giambattista Valli"
We had no plans to pull out our dark shadows this summer, but after spotting Nicola Peltz at the closing ceremony for the Shanghai International Film Festival this weekend, we’re seriously reconsidering. Peltz expertly paired her ultrafeminine Giambattista Valli couture gown with undone waves and a sultry charcoal eye. In our opinion, the look struck the perfect balance between sophisticate and smokeshow. We’re embracing the season’s fresh, no-makeup makeup look during the day, but for our next night out, a black cream smudged around our eyes (like Chanel Illusion D’Ombre Long Wear Luminous Eyeshadow in Mirifique) will serve as the perfect contrast to a crisp LWD (little white dress).
After burning Cire Trudon (specifically Solis Rex and Adb El Kader) in his atelier for years, Giambattista Valli joined forces with the historical candle company (once Napoleon’s official wax producer and supplier to the court of Louis XIV) in 2010 to craft his first bespoke bougie: Rose Poivrée. “When I was preparing to open my first store in Paris, I wanted to have my very own unique scent for the house of Valli. The idea was to blend two contrasting elements and find the equilibrium point. I chose a fresh, dewy rose—like those found in Le Petit Triannon at Versailles—and upon this delicate scent we added some ground black pepper from Tuscany. Rose Poivrée is a balance between Italy and France; it’s a spicy scent,” explained the designer. In honor of his recent boutique opening in Milan, a new Italian-inspired blend, Positano, was composed to set the mood. “Positano is like my Proust’s madeleine. White flowers, lemon, orange blossom—those are my scents. They are my heritage. I was born in the summertime, and they are the first scents I recall smelling,” he said. While Rose Poivrée was once a prized souvenir to bring home from the City of Light, this French favorite is now arriving stateside, along with Positano—especially good news for those of us on the show circuit, as these weighty candles add some serious bulk to already overstuffed luggage.
$95 each; visit ciretrudon.com for more information
This season, the designer created clothes for a “woman who was confident to dress in women’s clothes,” but the makeup, as describe by face painter Val Garland, was “healthy, wealthy, and handsome.” Brushed-up brows, perfected complexions, and lips topped with a clear mattifying formula from MAC comprised the look. “Just before they go out, we are going to give them a little massage on their cheeks so we get nice, natural color—but it’s not a blush,” she noted. The sheen on the high points of the face came courtesy of moisturizer, rather than a shimmery pigment, applied with a fan brush. “I’m a bit over the frosty sheen of highlighter, I think it’s dying a death,” Garland said. And similar to the London shows, she made a point of not picking up mascara. “It can look commercial when what you want to get across is something more directional,” she explained. But for those of us in the live real world and not on the runway, she suggests hanging onto our go-to tubes. “You can’t live without it—none of us can.” As much as I despise scrubbing off the black rings that form post-shower, I have to agree.
Hair pro Orlando Pita crafted a clean, natural ponytail—adding shine and canceling any flyaways with L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil. “This makes it shiny, touchable, and soft—all the things the girls’ [strands] aren’t during the season,” he said. The tails were bent slightly with a curling iron for movement. Asked if the hair would be tucked into the collars and high-necked pieces in the collection (a trend that’s held strong since New York), Pita said that would be a game-time decision left up to Valli. The “haphazard” feeling this finishing touch lends, however, is something the mane master fully supports: “It’s as if you just got up and threw on a T-shirt—except [the T-shirt] is actually a Giambattista Valli dress—and headed out the door.” That sounds like my kind of morning.
We can’t stop thinking about the hair in Giambattista Valli’s Pre-Fall lookbook. Platinum has swept the runways, but will pastels be next? The pale pink and sherbet strands seen here on model Linn Arvidsson certainly make a case for brightening up—and coordinating your hair to your outfit. To try the look temporarily, spritz on Bumble and Bumble Spraychalk in Blush, Mint, or Lavender.
Makeup artist Val Garland has worked with Giambattista Valli for many years now, so it’s safe to say she knows his girl by heart: “Dewy, expensive, quality skin, with rosy cheeks,” she noted. Even so, the designer proved he is not above throwing the occasional curveball. “This season, he told me he wanted a bit of drama,” Garland said. Enter the strong black line. “Gambattista’s woman is very Parisian—she’s a little bit cocky; she’s very sure of herself. She might wake up and not really care about how she looks because she has so much confidence,” Garland noted backstage before the show. In order to create a counterpoint to the designer’s soft, Monet-inspired clothing, Garland created a modern, graphic eye. “Instead of that couture fifties flick, we’ve made it a lot stronger and blockier,” she said. She worked using not one liner but two, starting with a black cream from MAC followed by a powder formula. “The first one is easy to apply, and the second gives it hold,” she explained. She finished with “lashings and lashings of mascara.” A barely there beige mouth courtesy of Lip Eraser rounded out the face and kept the emphasis on the eyes.
When it came to the tresses, Valli asked hair guru Orlando Pita to keep things straightforward and simple. “Giambattista said he wanted the hair to [appear] as though the girls had just run their fingers through it,” he explained. Pita blew hair dry with Schwarzkopf OSiS+ Volume spray, and brought texture to smooth strands with Dust It powder. Next, he curled a few sections in back before tousling them—ultimately securing the hair with several strategically placed pins and finishing the look with “not too much hair spray.” He said of the end result: “It’s supposed to look luxurious but not madame.”