19 posts tagged "Giambattista Valli"
This season, the designer created clothes for a “woman who was confident to dress in women’s clothes,” but the makeup, as describe by face painter Val Garland, was “healthy, wealthy, and handsome.” Brushed-up brows, perfected complexions, and lips topped with a clear mattifying formula from MAC comprised the look. “Just before they go out, we are going to give them a little massage on their cheeks so we get nice, natural color—but it’s not a blush,” she noted. The sheen on the high points of the face came courtesy of moisturizer, rather than a shimmery pigment, applied with a fan brush. “I’m a bit over the frosty sheen of highlighter, I think it’s dying a death,” Garland said. And similar to the London shows, she made a point of not picking up mascara. “It can look commercial when what you want to get across is something more directional,” she explained. But for those of us in the live real world and not on the runway, she suggests hanging onto our go-to tubes. “You can’t live without it—none of us can.” As much as I despise scrubbing off the black rings that form post-shower, I have to agree.
Hair pro Orlando Pita crafted a clean, natural ponytail—adding shine and canceling any flyaways with L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil. “This makes it shiny, touchable, and soft—all the things the girls’ [strands] aren’t during the season,” he said. The tails were bent slightly with a curling iron for movement. Asked if the hair would be tucked into the collars and high-necked pieces in the collection (a trend that’s held strong since New York), Pita said that would be a game-time decision left up to Valli. The “haphazard” feeling this finishing touch lends, however, is something the mane master fully supports: “It’s as if you just got up and threw on a T-shirt—except [the T-shirt] is actually a Giambattista Valli dress—and headed out the door.” That sounds like my kind of morning.
We can’t stop thinking about the hair in Giambattista Valli’s Pre-Fall lookbook. Platinum has swept the runways, but will pastels be next? The pale pink and sherbet strands seen here on model Linn Arvidsson certainly make a case for brightening up—and coordinating your hair to your outfit. To try the look temporarily, spritz on Bumble and Bumble Spraychalk in Blush, Mint, or Lavender.
Makeup artist Val Garland has worked with Giambattista Valli for many years now, so it’s safe to say she knows his girl by heart: “Dewy, expensive, quality skin, with rosy cheeks,” she noted. Even so, the designer proved he is not above throwing the occasional curveball. “This season, he told me he wanted a bit of drama,” Garland said. Enter the strong black line. “Gambattista’s woman is very Parisian—she’s a little bit cocky; she’s very sure of herself. She might wake up and not really care about how she looks because she has so much confidence,” Garland noted backstage before the show. In order to create a counterpoint to the designer’s soft, Monet-inspired clothing, Garland created a modern, graphic eye. “Instead of that couture fifties flick, we’ve made it a lot stronger and blockier,” she said. She worked using not one liner but two, starting with a black cream from MAC followed by a powder formula. “The first one is easy to apply, and the second gives it hold,” she explained. She finished with “lashings and lashings of mascara.” A barely there beige mouth courtesy of Lip Eraser rounded out the face and kept the emphasis on the eyes.
When it came to the tresses, Valli asked hair guru Orlando Pita to keep things straightforward and simple. “Giambattista said he wanted the hair to [appear] as though the girls had just run their fingers through it,” he explained. Pita blew hair dry with Schwarzkopf OSiS+ Volume spray, and brought texture to smooth strands with Dust It powder. Next, he curled a few sections in back before tousling them—ultimately securing the hair with several strategically placed pins and finishing the look with “not too much hair spray.” He said of the end result: “It’s supposed to look luxurious but not madame.”
I doubt that Giambattista Valli had Whitney Houston’s eighties hit “So Emotional” in mind when deciding on the look for today’s show, but the “tea-stained” eye makeup by Val Garland certainly brought the lyrics to mind. “She’s woken up from last night and she’s a bit brokenhearted,” explained the face painter of the designer’s muse.
To get the shadowy effect, she blended two colors from the MAC Spring ’14 Trend Forecast Eye Palette (March Mist and Cultivating Chic) to create a mushroom-rose hue and swept it across lids and underneath eyes—diffusing any harsh lines with a brush. A nude pencil was employed along the lower waterlines to cancel any redness the models have acquired at this point during fashion month. For seamless skin minus a heavy base, Garland broke down foundation with Care Blends Essential Oils and applied a bronze shade of Cream Colour Base in the hollows of the cheeks for subtle definition. The same oil was used to sheer out a pearly white highlighter before dabbing it on the tops of cheekbones, the inner corners, and just below the eyes. “There is always a shine detail somewhere at Valli—for Fall it was about a face stretching [sheen], this season it’s about a tear.” Lips, however, were “gloss negative,” with Mixing Medium Matte used to tone down the violet shade lightly patted onto models’ pouts.
Hair wasn’t a weepy affair for Orlando Pita: “She’s still very much a woman with personality and confidence that trusts in her natural beauty,” he said. To reflect this idea of empowerment, Pita made a French twist that was less “madame” and more deconstructed. “I’m always trying to achieve [a style] that appears as if a girl has done it herself,” he explained. To get that DIY feeling, he worked L’Oréal Professional Super or Texture Dust (depending on hair type) through the top section, then misted his hands with Elnett hair spray before scraping strands back with his fingers. Next, he rolled up the length and secured the twist on a diagonal with pins—keeping the sides tight but the crown area slightly loose, for an imperfect finish.
In the end, it seems that the Giambattista Valli girl doesn’t cry for long, or wait around for a man to bring her “forgive me” flowers—especially when she can buy them for herself, strewn across the shoulders of a well-tailored blazer (Look 27) or attention-grabbing mini (Look 29).
Throwback Thursday is a column on Beauty Counter in which we pore over the pages of our favorite glossies from decades past in search of a little modern-day makeup and hair inspiration.
The Model: Christy Turlington Burns
The Moment: Wet Hair
The Motivation: We admit we’re huge Christy Turlington Burns fans, but right now it seems the whole fashion world is, too. From Harper’s Bazaar‘s U.S. June/July cover to a new Calvin Klein underwear ad (where she reprises her role from the late eighties), this original super is proving that the nineties really are back. Not only does the above Nick Knight-lensed shot provide one more example of how gorgeous this top model is, but it highlights another trend: wet hair. We spotted damp strands (considered one of hairstylist Guido Palau’s trademark looks) on the Fall runways at Prada, Marni, and Giambattista Valli. A dip in the pool (or in the case of today’s NYC weather, getting caught in the rain) never looked so chic.