13 posts tagged "Giorgio Armani Beauty"
In lieu of the “diaphanous” green shadow employed at Giorgio Armani’s Spring 2014 show in Milan, makeup artist Linda Cantello opted for a more subtle hue for his “One Night Only” celebration, held last evening at SuperPier in New York City. She dotted a forthcoming taupe formula in between the lashes to avoid any harsh lines, then applied a hint of the same color through the crease. But if designer’s most recent Privé collection was any indication, beige in the world of Armani is anything but boring. “Everyone is doing the nineties nude [this season], but this is a naughty nude,” explained the face painter of the sexy champagne tone. To keep the eyes looking soft, she skipped mascara. The skin was perfected using the brand’s CC cream (launching in March), which cancels any redness but lends a transparent—not cakey—finish. “He hates blush,” revealed Cantello, so obviously cheeks were kept bare per the boss’ orders. The lips, however, were dabbed with a custom-blended berry-pink lipstick that looked “lived in.” “We come with thousands of products and huge suitcases, but never have the right shade,” she said. Hence the reason the backstage team travels with a mobile beauty lab (essentially all the pigments and colors used by chemists to create the house’s cosmetics in a stationary location). “Of all the designers I’ve worked with, he pays the most attention to detail,” Cantello revealed, saying that Mr. Armani notices everything—including the tiny amount of gloss that wasn’t matted down before his second show this past season. But as his breathtaking couture illustrated last night, perfection, in addition to longevity, is all in the details.
This season, makeup artist Linda Cantello categorized the Armani woman as “delicate” and the “antithesis of the Prada lady,” which, funnily enough, was one of the few other shows to employ a bold use color on the lids for Spring 2014. The face painter’s approach, however, was less about women in revolt and more focused on creating a “passive” femininity on the runway. And while the underlying theme of the collection was Jardin Majorelle, she grappled with the choice between purple and green (not blue, which would have been too obvious a choice) to pick up on the amethyst and anemonelike tones in the clothes. In the end, a gentle wash of emerald won out. “Mr. Armani was very specific that it shouldn’t be too green—he wanted it to have a diaphanous, photo-transparent [quality],” she explained.
After priming skin with a BB cream to eliminate redness or any lingering effects of summer (i.e., a tan), she used Giorgio Armani Beauty Maestro Foundation to create the “pale perfection” requested by the designer. Complexions were then dusted with powder for a matte—but still luminous—finish. The alluring malachite shade wrapped around lids was a combination of sea foam and slightly deeper jade pigments (inspired by a Sarah Moon image from the seventies that was pinned to Cantello’s mirror). For translucency and the “essence of speed,” she mixed the eye shadow with Fluid Sheer in 2, the lightest hue in the range of radiance boosters. The formula was initially applied with a brush along the crease, outer corners, and lower lash lines, but Cantello used her finger to blend it out and down. To cancel dark shadows, a concealer was dotted on the inner corners of the eyes and a light stain was tapped onto lips to make the girls “look more healthy than dead.”
In contrast to the gentle makeup, the hair by Franco Gobbi was a bit more aggressive. There was certainly an eighties reference, illustrated by the side-swept waves (similar to the swoop seen at Emilio Pucci), and the length was pinned up off the neck to resemble an undercut. To finish, strands were misted with hair spray to lock in the fluffy texture. While I’m not entirely sold on this particular swoosh, Cantello’s gauzy shadow makes being green look absolutely gorgeous.
The past few years have seen the spinning trend reach dizzying new heights, and leading the two-wheeled, stationary charge are fashionable studios like Flywheel—and, more specifically, its co-founder Ruth Zukerman. Widely credited as the pioneer of New York’s indoor cycling scene (she opened the first dedicated studio here in 2006), Zukerman is more than mere cardio enthusiast: The Mount Holyoke grad has studied anatomy and exercise physiology extensively, and that education, plus her background as a dancer, figured largely in the creation of her cult fitness destination. Devotees of the studio’s intense hour-long classes appreciate the carefully curated soundtracks (courtesy of an in-house DJ), the personal tech packs on each bike (the better to record your metrics like speed, power, distance, and calories burnt with), and of course, the body sculpting results. It’s perhaps unsurprising that Zukerman herself, now in her fifties and looking more fit than ever, is the best advertisement of this. Here, Flywheel’s driving force shares her own beautifying go-tos, with some healthy food mainstays thrown in for good measure.
The Body-Conscious Masseuse: Jacob at the Standard Spa
“Jacob at the Standard Spa in Miami is a wonderful massage therapist. I always look for someone who really knows the body, and he is a wealth of knowledge. He knows how much pressure I need and has been known to literally stand on my calves and hamstrings. With all of the indoor cycling that I do I need this kind of treatment. After I leave him I feel as if I’m floating.”
For more information, visit www.standardhotels.com.
The Hair Team: Serge Normant at John Frieda Salon
“I have been seeing River Lloyd, currently at John Frieda, for 20 years! I admire his impeccable taste and skills with scissors. He knows me well and always knows what to do, and I trust his instincts. I put my hair completely in his hands. And Sharon Dorram is my hair color guru. While she’s big on blondes, she knows just the right brunette shade for me—always a rich and radiant color.”
For more information, visit www.johnfrieda.com.
The Solo Getaway: Miraval
“When I want a spa vacation, I prefer to go alone for the ultimate in peace and quiet. My favorite would be the Miraval spa in Catalina, Arizona. Surrounded by the Santa Catalina Mountains, it is absolutely beautiful. I practice yoga in a room facing these mountains and feel, and appreciate, the distance from New York City. The facial and massage treatments are all given by very experienced therapists and aestheticians, and I always leave feeling relaxed, buffed, and ready to get back to work!”
For more information, visit www.miravalresorts.com.
In the annals of makeup geniuses, Linda Cantello ranks very high. The international makeup artist for Giorgio Armani cosmetics has been sharing her beauty wizardry with the masses since the latter part of the eighties, when, after graduating from London’s Harrow Art School she moved to Rome to build a beauty career. Since then she has worked with literally every iconic photographer in the biz—Klein, Avedon, Penn, Roversi, van Lamsweerde and Matadin et al.—playing a crucial role in building some of the most groundbreaking fashion images the world has ever seen. Here, the beloved makeup artist who splits her time between New York and a farmhouse outside of Paris gives us a peek inside her own beauty black book.
The Hair Hero: Christophe Robin
“I was one of Christophe Robin’s first clients; he calls me his godmother. I couldn’t live without my ritual every six weeks of a salon visit to get my blond back. He has a suite in the Le Meurice hotel, very chic, and very much like The Women. I wash my hair daily with his rose shampoo, and soak it once a week with his rose conditioner.”
Christophe Robin at Le Meurice, 228 Rue de Rivoli, 75001 Paris, France, +33 1 44 58 10 10.
The Signature Scent: Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle
“I have worn Frédéric Malle’s Carnal Flower since 2000, but have recently started wearing his Mediterranean Lily; I go to his store on rue de Grenelle, and spend hours talking to the guy who works there about old fragrances, new fragrances. I want to buy the entire store; I am a fragrance freak and have a weakness for buying it, even if I wear the same fragrance every day. Literally I am a sucker for anything that smells good…perfume, bath oils, candles. I have cupboards full.”
Available at www.fredericmalle.com.
The Makeup Essential: Giorgio Armani Maestro Foundation
“In my capacity as international makeup artist for Giorgio Armani cosmetics I do get to visit the amazing labs with Mr. Armani. It’s high tech and security is crazy, but I do pick up some incredible things there; pigments and bases to mix them with so my kit becomes a kind of portable lab. I get very excited before a visit. Maestro Foundation is my must-have foundation. It’s a whole new generation of makeup that feels incredible, looks invisible, and makes skin appear luminous every time. Anyone can wear it!”
Available at www.giorgioarmanibeauty-usa.com.
The Tip Pros: Blush Nail Lounge
“I like fast speedy fixes in New York, and I only love getting my nails done there. I go to Blush in the East Village; they do a great job and are lovely people.”
Blush, 218 East Fifth Street, NYC, (212) 375-1340.
The Liquid Lunch: Juice Press and Healthfully Organic Market
“My life is very schizophrenic, slow and indulgent in Paris, fast and healthy-ish in New York. I love Juice Press for juices, and Healthfully, my local health food store is great. They have a great range of organic beauty lines and a big selection of organic and raw products for such a small store. My latest obsession is shea butter; they have a wild, raw shea butter, karité, that’s amazing. I used to use emu oil years ago, and then progressed to argan oil, but now I use camellia oil on my face, and the raw shea on my legs and arms.”
For more information, visit www.juicepress.com and www.healthfully.com.
The Yearly Ritual: Panchakarma
“I have to confess that I don’t do yoga, and I am not a gym bunny, but I do try and get a Panchakarma every year. It’s a total detox for mind, body, and spirit, and very full on. The place I was going to, the Lancaster Health Center in Massachusetts was founded by the Maharishi, and was a total time warp; I loved it, but sadly it closed down a few months ago. They have a sister clinic in Germany so I might go there, or I would love to go to Kerala.”
For more information, visit www.ayurveda-germany.com.
The Regular Restaurants: New York and Paris Standbys
“My hands-down favorite restaurants in New York are ABC Kitchen and Omen. And in Paris my favorites are Prunier for its wonderful seafood and laid-back atmosphere. And Stella Maris has a Japanese chef cooking French food that is amazing.”
Omen, 113 Thompson St., NYC, (212) 925-8923; For more information, visit www.abckitchennyc.com, www.stellamaris-paris.com, and www.prunier.com.
If there’s one thing Giorgio Armani Beauty is known for around the world, it’s foundation. The luxury brand’s Luminous Silk foundation is the stuff of legend—and its latest skin-perfecting innovation, Maestro Fusion Makeup, will make a convert out of even the most makeup-adverse woman, mostly because it doesn’t look or feel like makeup. That’s thanks to the company’s expertise in formulation—and fashion. Giorgio Armani Cosmetics international makeup artist, Linda Cantello, creates new products for the brand based on what she sees in the backstage trenches, which is where she got the idea for her latest coup. In order to get the gorgeous, saturated plum lip Cantello painted onto models’ mouths at Mr. Armani’s Spring 2011 “Éclat de Pierres” Privé show, she blended a translucent gel with a high concentration of pigments to get a piercingly pure color. It served as the prototype for the new Lip Maestro, which is billed as a “matte lacquer,” although the red-capped, slim tube is so much more than that. Its velvety consistency has more of a sheen to it than a traditional flat-finish pout enhancer—but don’t call it a gloss. There’s zero stickiness to all 12, easy-on shades, which cover a range of pinks, roses, and crimsons, like the universally flattering #400, which is called “the red,” for good reason. “A little tip,” offers Cantello, “is to start with the bottom lip, then press your lips together for an even application.” Then smile.