18 posts tagged "Giorgio Armani"
In lieu of the “diaphanous” green shadow employed at Giorgio Armani’s Spring 2014 show in Milan, makeup artist Linda Cantello opted for a more subtle hue for his “One Night Only” celebration, held last evening at SuperPier in New York City. She dotted a forthcoming taupe formula in between the lashes to avoid any harsh lines, then applied a hint of the same color through the crease. But if designer’s most recent Privé collection was any indication, beige in the world of Armani is anything but boring. “Everyone is doing the nineties nude [this season], but this is a naughty nude,” explained the face painter of the sexy champagne tone. To keep the eyes looking soft, she skipped mascara. The skin was perfected using the brand’s CC cream (launching in March), which cancels any redness but lends a transparent—not cakey—finish. “He hates blush,” revealed Cantello, so obviously cheeks were kept bare per the boss’ orders. The lips, however, were dabbed with a custom-blended berry-pink lipstick that looked “lived in.” “We come with thousands of products and huge suitcases, but never have the right shade,” she said. Hence the reason the backstage team travels with a mobile beauty lab (essentially all the pigments and colors used by chemists to create the house’s cosmetics in a stationary location). “Of all the designers I’ve worked with, he pays the most attention to detail,” Cantello revealed, saying that Mr. Armani notices everything—including the tiny amount of gloss that wasn’t matted down before his second show this past season. But as his breathtaking couture illustrated last night, perfection, in addition to longevity, is all in the details.
This season, makeup artist Linda Cantello categorized the Armani woman as “delicate” and the “antithesis of the Prada lady,” which, funnily enough, was one of the few other shows to employ a bold use color on the lids for Spring 2014. The face painter’s approach, however, was less about women in revolt and more focused on creating a “passive” femininity on the runway. And while the underlying theme of the collection was Jardin Majorelle, she grappled with the choice between purple and green (not blue, which would have been too obvious a choice) to pick up on the amethyst and anemonelike tones in the clothes. In the end, a gentle wash of emerald won out. “Mr. Armani was very specific that it shouldn’t be too green—he wanted it to have a diaphanous, photo-transparent [quality],” she explained.
After priming skin with a BB cream to eliminate redness or any lingering effects of summer (i.e., a tan), she used Giorgio Armani Beauty Maestro Foundation to create the “pale perfection” requested by the designer. Complexions were then dusted with powder for a matte—but still luminous—finish. The alluring malachite shade wrapped around lids was a combination of sea foam and slightly deeper jade pigments (inspired by a Sarah Moon image from the seventies that was pinned to Cantello’s mirror). For translucency and the “essence of speed,” she mixed the eye shadow with Fluid Sheer in 2, the lightest hue in the range of radiance boosters. The formula was initially applied with a brush along the crease, outer corners, and lower lash lines, but Cantello used her finger to blend it out and down. To cancel dark shadows, a concealer was dotted on the inner corners of the eyes and a light stain was tapped onto lips to make the girls “look more healthy than dead.”
In contrast to the gentle makeup, the hair by Franco Gobbi was a bit more aggressive. There was certainly an eighties reference, illustrated by the side-swept waves (similar to the swoop seen at Emilio Pucci), and the length was pinned up off the neck to resemble an undercut. To finish, strands were misted with hair spray to lock in the fluffy texture. While I’m not entirely sold on this particular swoosh, Cantello’s gauzy shadow makes being green look absolutely gorgeous.
Giorgio Armani Beauty Doesn’t Miss a Beat; Rita Ora and Cara Delevingne Are Lovin’ It Late Night; and More
To promote its new thirty-six-shade collection of CC-cream lipsticks (the first of its kind), called Rouge Ecstasy, the classic cosmetics brand enlisted Danish beatboxer Felix Zenger to provide the vocals for a few gorgeous sets of lips. Watch the models mouth off above. [YouTube]
Although BFFs Rita Ora and Cara Delevingne were said to have split this summer, they were spotted at the golden arches in London in the early hours (3:30 a.m.). Nothing helps you kiss and make up—or rev up for fashion week—like an end-of-the-night excursion to McDonald’s. One big question remains: Did the superstar and supermodel supersize it? [Mirror UK]
Pantene Pro-V crowns Queen Latifah as the latest brand ambassador for its Truly Relaxed and Truly Natural Collections. [Twitter]
It’s not just editors who need care packages filled with Band-Aids, Starbucks cards, and Still Standing Spray for tired feet (yes, this exists, and I did, in fact, receive it)—Space NK teamed up with Next Models to keep the catwalkers looking top-notch for London fashion week. In addition to agency-approved snacks and water, the girls will get a few best-selling beauty goods from the Brit boutique. [Vogue UK]
“As I was developing the project, defining the fragrance and imagining the bottle, I instinctively thought of her, and of the passion that can be perceived behind her impeccable manners and confident look—a seductive combination that fully respects the spirit of my new perfume.” —Giorgio Armani on Si, his forthcoming women’s scent inspired, and fronted, by Cate Blanchett. [WWD]
Chanel has just revealed its five all-time best-selling nail polishes via a fun, New Order-backed video. And the winners are: Pirate, a beautiful basic red; Black Satin, the cult-classic onyx; Particulière, a taupey gray; Rouge Noir (or Vamp, for those in the know); and Beige, a gorgeous nude. When that fateful day comes that Jade is reintroduced into the permanent collection, we imagine a new version will be in order. [NYDN]
Despite her supermodel status, Cindy Crawford isn’t that unlike the rest of us. “I’m a normal woman. Sometimes I feel pretty good, and some days I’m like, Oh my God, nothing fits,” she says. “My new resolution is that by the time I am 50, I want to have come to terms with my body.” [Net-A-Porter]
Her mother may be an incredibly glamorous fashion designer, but Harper Beckham “is a tomboy,” according to mother Victoria, who is keen on keeping it that way. “I can’t put makeup on when Harper’s around, because she would join me immediately!” [Hello]
Aside from that showstopping, crystal-encrusted lip moment backstage at Dior, there has been a collective focus due north of models’ mouths at the couture shows this week, as designers are requesting luxe lids with regularity. And historically, no one loves a well-defined eye quite like Giorgio Armani, who actually came up with the flicked banana liner at his presentation yesterday on his own. “Mr. Armani always has his idea of how things should be, and then we work on it together,” explains the Italian house’s international makeup artist, Linda Cantello. “It’s a very contemporary couture look—sort of a mash-up of the eighties, the nineties, and a little of the fifties,” she continued of the beauty story here, which revolved around a palette of white, red, and black.
Such a stark approach requires perfect skin, according to Cantello, who started her base by massaging Armani’s brand-new Crema Nera Extrema, a lavish salve that uses extracts from the hardy South African survival plant Reviscentalis to quench and plump parched complexions, into the face. Following that up with a layer of Giorgio Armani Maestro foundation, Cantello etched on a graphic eye through the crease, which she paired with garnet lips—the result of a mix of the brand’s new matte Lip Maestro and the juicy, high-shine Flash Lacquer gloss, due out in April. “The one thing I hate is penciled-in lips,” Cantello pointed out of the rigid effect of precisely lining lips, relishing instead the myriad options now available to her, like glosses and balms in matte and shiny finishes. “In a show context, everything is perfect—but out there in the real world, you need to look at the woman and not the makeup.”
“Perfect,” it turns out, is a good way to describe hairstylist Franco Gobbi’s “urban tribal girl” coifs, which relied on laminated strands that were tucked and twisted into quasi-short cuts that dispensed all notions of volume in favor of a sleek, graphic texture with segmented, wet bangs created from flipped-over lengths. “She travels the world, east to west, and wherever she goes, she picks up little elements along the way,” he explained of Mr. Armani’s couture woman, who favored an “ethnic Mexican wrap” hairstyle that was prepped with Moroccanoil Oil Treatment to add glisten before being set with Sebastian Shaper Fierce Hairspray and tucked beneath a bevy of caps. Just because the season’s cuts are short, Gobbi notes, it doesn’t mean hair shouldn’t have texture. “Wet or dry, it [adds] a really chic touch.”