48 posts tagged "Gucci Westman"
“It’s a modern take on an eccentric princess,” said Gucci Westman of the floating liner at Marchesa. “She has flawless skin and she’s only done one thing—that being an eyeliner.” To achieve it, Westman employed two jewel-tone shades and two different formulas, applying the Revlon ColorStay Crème Gel Eye Liner in Jade or Rio Blue (out in April) just above the crease, and layering it with a corresponding stripe of ColorStay Skinny Liquid Liner (available in June) in Green Spark or Electric Blue. Lashes were coated with a “tiny bit” of mascara and the tops of the cheekbones dabbed with Skinlights Face Illuminator. “Her outfit probably took much longer to put on than the makeup,” Westman quipped of her beauty muse.
Similar to Westman, hair pro Mark Hampton created two different looks—but instead of making a minor color tweak, he crafted completely different styles. The first was a series of tight cornrows done on the dark-haired models. Unlike Adam Selman’s use of braids earlier in the week, these were decidedly less Snoop Dogg and more “Highland girl,” Hampton explained. After he crafted five inverted braids at the crown, he gathered the length into a low-slung ponytail. His reasoning behind the recent resurgence of this particular plait: “They stop something from being too romantic and [provide] a younger, youth-culture vibe.”
The second look, for the blonds and gingers, was a “bad ballerina knot.” Hampton prepped strands with Toni&Guy Hair Meet Wardrobe Casual Sea Salt Texturising Spray for texture before pulling it all back into a high pony and winding it into a messy chignon. Wisps around the hairline were created with a small curling iron and topped off with Casual Flexible Hold Hairspray. As for why he doubled up on the dos: “[Georgina Chapman and Keren Craig] wanted to portray two different characters—one is a little bit more aggressive and the other is a little softer—and carry that thought across with the hair.”
A Spring 2014 trend was revived at Oscar de la Renta: wigs—short and choppy. Matching the hint of masculinity in the clothes (think pinstripes and leather), hair pro Orlando Pita tailored the faux strands to fit each model’s face—roughing them up with his own brand of dry shampoo. “We need to move on from the long hair thing, and I’d like to present an alternative to women,” he said. “You see [the look] on somebody like Jennifer Lawrence on the red carpet and it starts to look cool—it becomes a haircut and an evening dress instead of a hairdo and an evening dress.”
Gucci Westman cited Peter Lindbergh photos of Linda Evangelista as the inspiration for the “mousy gray-brown day eye,” which she crafted with four colors of Revlon ShadowLinks: Cocoa, Chocolate, Greige, and Charcoal. The roots of the top and bottom lashes were rimmed with a charcoal pencil, and the inner and outer corners of the upper waterline were given the same treatment to make it appear as if “they’d been crying,” she said. Cheeks were gently contoured, and lips were slicked with gloss in Super Natural. “Everything disappears except for the eye,” Westman noted.
Makeup artist Tom Pecheux “believes in green” this season. And it all started with a velvet chair (shown here) posted by fellow face painter Gucci Westman. He used various iterations of the shade at multiple shows already—including Peter Som, Altuzarra, and Derek Lam. At Som it was an olive green (MAC’s Cream Colour Base in Au Nature). “This eyeshadow is so disgusting, but I love it,” he said. The same went for the lipstick in Siss, a yellow-based nude: “I call it like a bird poo color, but if you look at the two [products] together, how chic is that?” He rimmed the eyes with a peacock green liner pencil before blurring it with gloss to lend a lived-in look to the makeup (similar to the sixties-inspired hair created by Eugene Souleiman, which Pecheux described as a “perfect hairdo” that a girl has slept on for a week). At Altuzarra, he sprinkled glitter with green undertones on models’ lids, and for Lam he created a green-gray hue that was “organic” but “intense.” Pecheux proclaimed green the new black in a message to Westman on Instagram, but now he’s making his flippant comment a serious statement for Fall 2014.
“This is Saturday morning makeup,” Gucci Westman said of the yé-yé girls- and Katharine Hepburn-inspired look at Rag & Bone. “It’s about fixing what you had on the night before.” If you’re not Joan Smalls (who closed the show), you likely don’t wake up after a Friday evening out on the town looking anything close to this—at least I don’t. But Westman says it’s possible to turn last night’s liner into this graphic shape by applying Revlon ColorStay Crème Gel Eye Liner in Black with a skinny brush and perfecting the shape by tracing over it with the Liquid Eye Pen. “Pointed Q-tips clean up everything,” Westman said as she sharpened the wing on a model’s eye. As for the rest of the face, things were rather pared-down in order to achieve the “tomboy” aesthetic. The Rag & Bone woman doesn’t wear blush, she explained: “It feels too finicky.” Instead, she contoured and highlighted in all the usual places (cheekbones, bridge of the nose, cupid’s bow, etc.). Any pink or red tones in the lips were canceled using a beige cream shadow (on darker complexions) or a white liner pencil for fair-skinned girls.
Aside from having his three-month-old son by his side backstage, hair pro Paul Hanlon was excited about working with the designers for the first time. “What I love about them is that they’re pushing [the hair and makeup] bit by bit every season,” he said. To achieve a lived-in texture, he loaded strands with Schwarzkopf OSiS+ Grip mousse “to take the cleanliness out” and raked Rough Rubber paste through the roots for “separation and dirtiness.” Dust It was added through the mid-lengths and ends to provide a “dreadlock-y” texture before hair was pulled into a low ponytail. Hanlon tucked the ends through the elastic to create an “urban sports knot” and finished with hair spray. “She hasn’t washed her hair all week; she’s been out; she hasn’t got a hairbrush or a comb; she’s just yanked her hair back with a band and it got all tangled and knotted,” he said of the muse. Yep, sounds about right.
In preparation for Jonathan Simkhai’s show this weekend, makeup artist Gucci Westman presents a bevy of vibrant bullets to choose from. The designer opted for a “clean” palette of white, black, cream, and pale blue for his Pre-Fall collection. If this was an indication of what we’ll see on Saturday’s runway, we hope he accessorizes his muted looks with a loud mouth.