42 posts tagged "Gucci Westman"
Backstage at Rag & Bone, all of the usual beauty suspects seemed to be present and accounted for: Black eyeliner? Check. Texturized, broken-up hair? You bet. But there was something decidedly different guiding their execution for Fall. “The mood board was all sixties,” makeup artist Gucci Westman revealed, explaining the absence of the grunge-heroine influence that often guides the look at David Neville and Marcus Wainwright’s shows. “We had to evolve someday. We couldn’t do Kate Moss forever,” the Revlon global artistic director joked.
But the classic downtown cool-girl code that has long reigned here was not gone—far from it. “This felt more obscure,” Westman explained of the thin banana liner she was drawing through the crease of models’ eyes with an uncharacteristically elongated stroke of Revlon ColorStay Liquid Eye Pen in Blackest Black and its ColorStay Crème Gel Liner in Black. “The typical sixties shape starts closer to the nose,” she continued, pointing out that in contrast, her etchings began about a quarter of an inch from the inner corner of the eye and extended out toward the temple. “We want [the girls to feel pretty],” Westman continued, insisting that both the top and bottom lashes were slicked with Revlon PhotoReady 3D Volume Mascara in Blackest Black but that no fake lashes were used, to keep things authentic. Arches were groomed with Revlon Brow Fantasy pencils while lips were bumped up a touch with its ColorStay Ultimate Suede Lipstick in Supermodel, a sheer mauve-berry.
Guido Palau echoed the sixties feeling by starting off the Fall show where he left off for Spring and sculpting a super-deep side part. “It’s almost like a comb-over,” the Redken creative consultant pointed out as he prepped strands with Redken Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam Mousse to create grip before applying its Power Refresh 01 Aerosol Hair Powder through the lengths for a matte finish. “A regular side part seems sophisticated, but a deep side part is boyish and also has a rebellious feel,” Palau offered, spritzing Redken Quick Tease 15 Backcombing Finishing Spray through the lengths and gathering them into a ponytail before securing a “spiky bun.” Your classic Twiggy homage, this was not.
“Their girl, she doesn’t do a lot with her hair,” Guido Palau said backstage of David Neville and Marcus Wainwright’s Rag & Bone woman who, truth be told, typically favors a naturally languid, bed-head look. For Spring, the story wasn’t really that different. “It’s masculine/feminine, wet/dry, nineties minimalism,” Palau explained of the slicked-back in the front, rough-dried in the back hair he conceived with the designers. A dual texture was key to the look, which the Redken creative consultant prepped with its Guts 10 Volume Spray Foam Mousse, adding a finger-combed bend with Sultra’s The Bombshell oval curling iron before coating front panels with Redken’s Hardwear 16 Super Strong Sculpting Gel.
Makeup artist Gucci Westman kept things dually natural with “raw but beautiful” skin and an “androgynous” brow. Road-testing Revlon’s forthcoming PhotoReady BB Cream for a breathable application of light, complexion-enhancing coverage, the Revlon global artistic director dabbed her new-for-Spring Baby Stick in Pink Passion, a multitasking sheer pigment, onto models’ cheeks for a barely perceptible flush. Eyes were lined with its ColorStay Eyeliner in Brown before getting a few slicks of Grow Luscious Mascara just on the top lashes, after which Westman focused her attention on arches, which were filled in and brushed up with Revlon’s Brow Fantasy pencils. Mouths were slightly stained and then moisturized with Dr. Lipp’s Original Nipple Balm for Lips.
Westman asked one specific thing of her team as the un-air-conditioned backstage area at the 34th Street post office began to swelter: “No highlights or shimmery stuff.” The objective, she explained, was to get to the heart of old black-and-white photographs of Linda and Christy. “I didn’t want it to feel too cosmetic-y,” she clarified. “Sometimes it’s nice to see just skin.”
Beauty Nostalgia is a new, weekly column on Beauty Counter in which we ask influencers, tastemakers, and some of our favorite industry experts to wax poetic on the sticks, salves, and sprays that helped shape who they are today.
The Pro: Gucci Westman, global artistic director for Revlon
The Product: “When I was 18, I was au pair to a family in Switzerland. I took care of two children, who were 2 and 9 years old, and I lived in the bedroom above the garage. I didn’t speak much French but the mother was a fashion journalist and she was always giving me products. I was just getting into skincare around this time, and I remember she gave me Clarins Beauty Flash Balm. The texture felt rich and luxurious, like a real cream. It had a peach color and smelled a little fruity with a floral undertone. This was my cream and it made me feel like a European woman. After that summer I moved back to Sweden and all my girlfriends wanted it. Anytime one of us was traveling we’d give each other money to buy it at Duty Free. We called it Baume Beauté Eclair to feel more French. Smelling it now reminds me of being 18 again and the feeling of putting it on before bed and having the scent waft around my face when I hit the pillow.” —As told to Kari Molvar
While it pains us to admit this, we’ve never been to Bora Bora. Or the Maldives. Or the Greek isles. Or Saint-Tropez—all those lavish seaside destinations which every year seem to figure large on the inspiration boards of summer makeup collections (and the travel plans of the rich and famous). We do, however, daydream about a holiday on the Riviera (French or Italian; either will do)—daydreams in which everything looks like a Slim Aarons photo come to life: tanned oily limbs, undulating water, and saturated colors. It’s precisely those hues—punchy coral red, rich turquoise, bright pink, and gold—that make up Revlon’s summer range, the aptly named Escapism collection. The brand’s global artistic director, Gucci Westman, culled inspiration for the products—which include a pale peach ColorBurst lip gloss in Bellini, Nail Enamels in Red Bikini (an orangey scarlet) and Sea Foam (a sheer turquoise), and the limited-edition Golden Highlighting Stick, which has particular showstopping qualities when dabbed onto the inner corners of eyes—from an actual visit to Saint-Tropez (quelle surprise!). But it’s the generously pigmented Photoready Cream Blush in the bright fuchsia Flushed that we will likely be patting on with the most frequency in the coming months, while retiring to one of New York and New Jersey’s many beach destinations, or staying close to home.
After getting a fair amount of play in Europe last season, high, voluminous hair is having a bit
of moment in New York for Fall, thanks in large part to Orlando Pita. “I’m three for two,” the
hairstylist said backstage at Oscar de la Renta, where he added another towering, teased style to his repertoire following equally gravity-defying stunts at Derek Lam and Carolina Herrera earlier in the week. “It really depends on what the designer wants,” Pita explained of his decision to go big, pointing out that de la Renta never wants a “the girl did it herself kind of thing.”
For Fall, the designer specifically requested a beauty look fit for “a young girl playing dress up,” according to his coiffing collaborator who used his T3 Elevate Heat-Seeking Volumizing Spray to coat sections of hair that he teased halfway down the shaft and then tucked into a faux bob, fastening a bejeweled, satin ribbon around the hairline (headbands; so hot for Fall 2012).
Revlon global artistic director, Gucci Westman, expounded upon de la Renta’s muse. “She’s an uptown girl who goes to private school,” the makeup artist said, building rosy, glowing skin with a combination of Revlon’s limited edition Highlighting Stick and PhotoReady Cream Blush, both from its forthcoming Escapism collection. “I wanted her to feel cooler and younger,” Westman continued, lining the upper lid with a stroke of Revlon’s ColorStay Liquid Liner in Black, which was slightly smudged so it appeared purposefully “not perfect.” To correspond with the sixties-inspired shapes in de la Renta’s clothes, Westman applied about four coats of its PhotoReady 3D Volume Mascara in Black so lashes were dark and dense.
The big beauty surprise was in the nails, though. Manicurist Yuna Park had the honor of debuting three of the new lacquers that will be a part of de la Renta’s Essential Luxuries collection that bows in October. “We’re matching the nails to the outfits and the hands to the toes,” Park said, alternating between Essential Aubergine, a deep berry, Essential Larimar, a pale blue and Essential Carnation, a true red. “The quality of the polish is pretty amazing,” she effused. “You get exactly what you see in the bottle.