42 posts tagged "Gucci Westman"
“When you have a brand with a signature feeling, you kind of just go with it,” Redken creative consultant Guido Palau said backstage at Rag & Bone, referencing designers David Neville and Marcus Wainwright’s signature style. And so, as she has in nearly every season past, the downtown cool girl reared her languid, texturized head of hair yet again. There were “Patti Smith goes to India” references being bandied about as well, but not in any kind of literal way. “She’s a traveler but she’s still rock ‘n’ roll,” Palau clarified, explaining why strands were a little bit more “dread-y” than usual thanks to Redken’s Full Frame 07 Protective Volumizing Mousse, which was slathered onto wet strands. Palau then added its Rough Paste 12 Working Material paste once the hair was dry. “It defines the texture,” he said of the sculpting product, as he set hair in twists to allow for movement.
The India component was actually Revlon artistic director Gucci Westman’s idea. “The boys were inspired by the jump in severe poverty and wealth [there],” Westman explained, which led her directly to that classic Indian beauty staple enjoyed by women of all income brackets: kohl eye liner. “I used three different eyeliners—a gel, a kohl pencil, and a liquid,” Westman said of her application technique, which relied heavily on Revlon Crème Gel Liner in Black, its Luxurious Color Eye Liner in Black, and its Liquid Liner in Blackest Black. For a slight change of pace, the face painter opted to trace the lower lid only, smudging as she went so it looked rough, “like decay.” Skin was kept “porcelain-y” thanks to a precise layering effort of a blend of skin correctors and luminizers, including the highlighter from Westman’s limited-edition shadow palette for fall in Midnight Express. To ensure that the effect was “pure and angelic,” she misted models with water as they hit the runway for an instant dewy look.
Every international fashion week has its fixtures, and the New York shows just wouldn’t be the same without Gucci Westman. The California-born makeup artist grew up in Sweden, studied makeup in Paris, and cut her teeth working alongside film directors (Vincent Gallo, Spike Jonze) and photographers (Annie Leibovitz) before earning a loyal but understated following among A-listers like Cameron Diaz and Drew Barrymore. As Revlon’s reigning global artistic director, Westman has redefined the brand’s vision of American beauty with her signature laid-back cool and effortless glamour—and it’s that same combination that allows her to leave her indelible mark backstage each season at shows like Oscar de la Renta and Vivienne Tam. Here, a matter of hours before she’ll debut the Fall makeup look backstage at Rag & Bone, we caught up with the Manhattan-based face-painting superstar to talk about skincare musts, fitness obsessions, and more.
The Hair Heroes: Three’s Company
“I have three favorites. I go to Tommy Guns to see my amazing colorist Tim Nolan, Orlo for a lovely catch-up and cut with my friend Orlando, and finally Blow, for the occasional, genius 15-minute blow-out paired with a mega-thorough manicure.”
The Nail Spot: Jin Soon Hand and Foot Spa, New York
“Jin Soon, love Jin!”
Visit www.jinsoon.com for more information.
The Skincare Routine: An (Extensive) Roster
“Are you ready? It’s a lot! I like to combine different brands as much as possible, so my skin has the ultimate response. From La Mer, I swear by The Moisturizing Lotion (I have been using it for the last decade) along with their Lip Balm and SPF 30 UV Protecting Lotion. Also in rotation: Dr. Hauschka Regenerating Serum, Rose Day Cream and Normalizing Day Oil. Eminence’s Coconut Milk Cleanser is heaven, the Strawberry Rhubarb Dermafoliant is a gentle exfoliant that I’m obsessed with, and the Clear Skin Probiotic Masque is so awakening. I put it on in the shower after the Dermafoliant and Pear & Poppy Seed Microderm Polisher, leave it on for 10 minutes, then put on Diptyque Rich Butter for the Body.”
If the hair at Oscar de la Renta jogged your memory, that’s because you’ve seen it before—two seasons ago at Marc Jacobs. “We’re wrapping the hair around long pins in a zigzag pattern,” Orlando Pita explained of the classic rickracking technique before clamping strands with a hot iron, releasing them, then brushing them out for a fluffy finish. What was unique about the style’s appearance this time around was precisely that it appeared at Oscar de la Renta at all. “I’m just happy he wanted something different,” said Pita, who has been in charge of the classic ladies-who-lunch updos and blowouts that more often than not debut here (Spring 2011′s fabric-wrapped Heidi braids being the one, outstanding exception). Pita’s version of the seventies style also featured a middle part that he used to create two front sections, which he pulled back and pinned underneath a top layer of fuzz. “It’s young, fresh, and romantic,” he continued, referencing Renaissance paintings and Stevie Nicks, a name that isn’t typically bandied about backstage at one of de la Renta’s shows, either.
The references to the Fleetwood Mac front woman ended there (much to our chagrin) as Revlon global artistic director Gucci Westman took the makeup reins. “It’s all about the skin,” Westman said, prepping complexions with Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream and its Regenerating Serum so that Revlon’s Age Defying Spa Illuminator in Pink Light and its Illuminance Crème Shadow in Not Just Nude melted right in. A combination of Revlon’s Matte Eye Shadow in Rich Sable and its forthcoming Eye Shadow in Moonlit was layered onto lids, which were then dotted with the clear gloss from Westman’s limited-edition gloss palette in Bordeaux in the Snow and lined with Revlon Grow Luscious Lash Liner in Espresso for definition. Westman used its Brow Fantasy in Dark Blonde and Brunette to strengthen arches before brushing them up. “There’s a lot of color in the collection,” Westman pointed out, “so we just wanted to keep it simple.”
“It’s the best Spring collection they’ve ever done,” Revlon global artistic director Gucci Westman effused backstage at Rag & Bone. Mrs. David Neville is admittedly a little biased, but the layered pops of orange, green, and aqua in Neville and Marcus Wainwright’s surfer girls-at-a-rave presentation were certainly eye-catching-which is precisely why Westman chose to keep the makeup relatively muted. “I didn’t want to complicate things,” she explained, powdering models’ complexions to counteract the shininess that had cropped up on everyone’s face backstage—the Miami Heat’s Dwayne Wade included—thanks to the hot and humid weather. To achieve the kind of “healthy, vacation-y, effortless, and easy” finish she was after, Westman used Revlon Powder Blush in Tawny Peach and its Powder Bronzer to impart a natural flush, before carving out lids with a smudge of its Eyeshadow in 16H Addictive, a dark brown. After she lined lashes with Revlon’s Luxurious Color Eyeliner in Sueded Brown for added definition, Westman painted on a muted nude lip using its Super Lustrous Lipstick in Demure and Silver City Pink. Nail guru Jin Soon Choi also kept it neutral, coating nails with Revlon Nail Enamel in Smoky Canvas, a flattering shade of cool pale gray. “I’m over greige,” Choi said of the warmer slate hues that have been popular in seasons past.
The rave vibe was also alive and well in Guido Palau’s “easy, modern hippie” hair, which he prepped with Redken Satinwear 02 Ultimate Blowdry Lotion and gave a natural bend using Sulta’s Multi-Purpose Iron, before sticking a pair of clear goggle-like glasses above each model’s hairline. Luckily, the candy-flipping tribute ended there. We’re happy to report that nary a pacifier necklace or glow stick was spotted.
With the numbers for invasive plastic surgery down as injectables become more popular, the newly debuted laViv—which uses your own collagen cells—looks to be the next big thing in a vial. [L.A. Times]
Battling the brutal humidity? Makeup artist Gucci Westman has a pretty surprising secret for reducing shine: deodorant. “I sometimes dab it under my eyes and T-zone to help create a matte look,” she says. [Bella Sugar]
Embattled former News International chief executive Rebecca Brooks had climbed high on the media ladder before she was arrested and called in front of Parliament this week. How did she get to the top? Some are suggesting it has a lot to do with her curly mass of russet curls. [Evening Standard]
In other beauty crossover news, a newly released campaign finance report indicates that New York Governor Andrew Cuomo’s campaign paid $1,383.86 in January to hair and makeup artist Alx Galasinao to keep the candidate looking his best. The figure isn’t that scandalous, considering the cost of most high-profile glam squads. Just saying. [NYT]