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August 31 2014

styledotcom How to dress when the temps start to drop: stylem.ag/1tTGGmj pic.twitter.com/UbzzLm88hR

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46 posts tagged "Guerlain"

Not Your Grandmother’s Rose Perfume

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To spritz or not to spritz, that is the question. Style.com/Arabia critic and perfume industry legend Luca Turin reviews the latest fragrance launches and answers this age-old question.

Name: Guerlain La Petite Robe Noire Couture
Notes: Raspberry, rose, vetiver
Nomenclature: Spicy rose

“One of the mysteries of perfumery is the skillful management of both time and distance: In the olden days, as my 15-year-old son refers to anything that happened before 2000, many fragrances smelled downright wrong close up and early on. What the great perfumers like Jacques Guerlain and Germaine Cellier (to name but two) wanted was a delayed effect that would magically “knock out” the intended victim two hours in, at a range corresponding to the diagonal of a dinner table.

In this respect, LPRN Couture is a stunning success. Up close it is a strange cacophony of fruity, spicy, and floral notes, as if Nahéma had collided with Coco Mademoiselle. Step back—or better still—walk out of the room and come back after a few minutes, and you will immediately understand that this stage makeup was never intended for close-ups, but works best when you forget it and suddenly wonder, What’s that great smell?

One thing that especially endears it to me is the weird long-term freshness that Thierry Wasser somehow builds into the fabric of his fragrances, as if he alone was privy to a licorice-lavender accord that goes on forever. Beautiful work, and under the present low-cost, reduced-palette circumstances, borderline miraculous. I give it 4.5 stars, to leave room for proper 5-star miracles.”

See guerlain.com for more information

For another review from Turin’s bimonthly column, click here.

Spritz Your Way to Summer: 5 Must-Try Citrus Scents

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Brief history lesson: The story of eau de cologne dates back to the 16th century in Cologne, Germany, when a perfumer supposedly concocted a simple yet elegant blend of citrus notes combined with herbal ingredients. The formula wasn’t meant to be incredibly rich or powerful, but rather a subtle, even humble, mist of zest on the skin. And yet it turned out to be quite the olfactory hit—nothing short of insanely popular among European locals and travelers on holiday who often splashed it on like a refreshing tonic during the hazy summery months. Fast-forward to today and the allure of the classic, old-world citrus cologne hasn’t faded a bit. Indeed, the latest versions prove that no two are exactly alike, and that each rendering can produce a slightly different mood, thanks to the nuances of the botanicals used. Here, a thoughtful look at the newest twists on this summertime favorite. Click here to view the slideshow.

Critic’s Choice: Luca Turin’s Perfume Pick

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To spritz or not to spritz, that is the question. Style.com/Arabia critic and perfume industry legend Luca Turin reviews the latest fragrance launches and answers this age-old question.

Name: Guerlain L’Eau du Parfum 68
Notes: Mandarin, rose, benzoin
Nomenclature: Nostalgic oriental

“If, as I firmly believe, smell is a sort of timbre, then it can be said that Guerlain is—thank goodness—bucking a mighty trend by insisting on making perfumes played on real instruments as opposed to ringtones, door chimes, and electronic jingles. Indeed, there is an element of desperate, nostalgic conservatism about 68, as befits the twilight of an era. The first five minutes of 68 are a strange medley, recapitulating a century of great tunes. L’Heure Bleue is there and Shalimar, of course, but also some of the competition: the green glow of Worth’s Je Reviens and, oddly enough, a surprising quotation of Lush’s Dirty. Halfway into the drydown suddenly comes a strange twist: 68 abruptly turns into a luxuriously plush version of one of those dreadful, bare-bones masculines that come with cheap leather bomber jackets and a clapped-out BMW. It is as if Guerlain’s Russian prince now made a living as many real ones did—as a Paris taxi driver. The drydown carries on essentially until your next shower, in a soft, balsamic-salicylate accord which does not even need to be original: The mere fact that it is there and smells good is more than enough. Guerlain’s revenge on shallow, front-loaded, chemical perfumery is complete and, for once, served warm.”

$250; available at Bergdorf Goodman and select Saks Fifth Avenue, Neiman Marcus, and Bloomingdales locations

For another review from Turin’s bi-monthly column, click here.

Now This Is How You Carry Your Beauty Products

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moynatCurrent exhibitions at the Institut du Monde Arabe in Paris and the Milan furniture fair are celebrating the legendary Orient Express, which is poised to hit the rails anew after a five-year hiatus. For Moynat artistic director Ramesh Nair, it’s a comeback on a silver platter. “I’m really passionate about a return to the experience of travel, the journey rather than the destination as an end in itself,” he said the other day in the house’s Rue Saint-Honoré headquarters. A longtime rail traveler, Nair believes that the only way to truly see India, for example, is by train. “I’m always looking to revisit the past, but in a modern way,” he remarked.

In that spirit, the French heritage leather house, which is owned by Bernard Arnault separately from LVMH, will be offering up some deep-luxury designs created with the Orient Express in mind. For starters, Nair has signed a custom vanity case similar to those favored by well-heeled travelers back in the luxury railroad line’s heyday. It took seven hundred hours to craft this one-of-a-kind piece. Even so, Nair declined to take all the credit. “It really came together over lunch with [Guerlain perfumer] Thierry Wasser,” he explained. “He’s a constant traveler, he picks up inspiration everywhere, and he immediately sensed that Shalimar would be a perfect match for the Orient Express.” Inside the buttery blue trunk: swing-out trays in apple tree wood—a material favored by sculptors for its polish and resilience—that reveal a cascade of Guerlain makeup and four Baccarat bottles of Shalimar nestled at the bottom. Minus the beauty stash, the valise would work just as well as a jewelry box or watchcase. Its price? Let’s just say if you have to ask, you can’t afford it.

Meanwhile, New York is about to get its own chance to check out Moynat’s wares: On April 24, “Le Trunk Show” will touch down on the ground floor of the Dover Street Market. Look for a breakfast trunk custom-designed for Michelin-starred chef Yannick Alléno, another designed to display Pierre Hermé’s macarons, and a retro bicycle mounted with a picnic trunk in lieu of a basic basket.

The Fab Five: Winter Whites

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The blustery weather has subsided…at least for today. Keep the polar vortex spirit alive with these white-hot products. Considering the multiple appearances this shade made on the Spring 2014 runways—ranging from Altuzarra to Ralph Lauren—expect it to reign long after the ice has melted.

Napoleon Perdis China Doll Gel Eyeliner in Yang: Run a thin band of this creamy alabaster formula across your top lashes à la Kenzo Spring 2014, or use it all over your lid as a smudge-proof shadow base.

$25, napoleonperdis.com

Guerlain Gloss d’Enfer in Stardust: Top off your go-to lipstick with this limited-edition shade, or wear it alone to add a hint of multidimensional shimmer to a bare mouth.

$30, guerlain.com

Formula X for Sephora in Cloud Nine: Inspired by the French manicure, this translucent polish provides a wash of white in just one coat. Add another layer for a more opaque finish.

$10.50, sephora.com

Butter London Wink Cream Eye Shadow in Alabaster Gaze: Frost your lids with this silvery hue, or dab it on just the inner corners of your eyes for a brightening effect.

$18, butterlondon.com

Jin Soon Nail Polish Toppings in Polka White: Like a blizzard in a bottle—matte, white glitter pieces suspended in a clear base look like freshly fallen snow over your standard polish job.

$18, jinsoon.com (available in March)