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July 30 2014

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45 posts tagged "Guerlain"

The House Guerlain Built

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guerlain

It’s been a busy season over at the landmark Guerlain flagship on the Champs-Elysées: A century after the building first opened, the French perfume house has unveiled a luxurious top-to-toe revamp courtesy of Peter Marino, a refresh that included annexing the old nightclub Montecristo next door and creating a restaurant called Le 68.

But that’s not all that’s new—or old, for that matter—chez Guerlain. The house is now celebrating the 160th anniversary of its famous gilded Bee bottle, which was created for the Empress Eugenie to contain her Eau de Cologne Impériale. It is also launching a Couture sequel (available in France March 2014) to its best-selling fragrance, La Petite Robe Noire. In a private walk-through, in-house perfumer Thierry Wasser discusses the storied brand’s new “homey” ambiance, from the food/fragrance connection to a heritage accessory revival—plus, what makes the newest Petite Robe Noire truly couture.

How do you describe the Guerlain flagship’s new ambiance?

When the Guerlain family built this building a century ago, it was a boutique, but it was also their home. We wanted the whole space to [feel] like a house: You can dine at the restaurant; write a postcard and mail it here; the perfume, beauty and skin care sections on the ground floor invite browsing; and the marble echoes the idea of wafts of fragrance—it just draws you in. Peter Marino’s attention to detail is amazing—there’s a shagreen banister that I love so much, I almost want to sleep next to it, right there on the stairs.

Upstairs, there’s still the tiered stand presenting the house library of creations, set amidst a rotating exhibition of historic perfume bottles and fragrance-inspired creations by contemporary artists. And if you want to take a nap, there’s always the spa on the third floor. It features an orchid garden, as well as works by Giacometti, Bérard and Jean-Michel Franck that were done for the original spa, which was the first in the world when it opened in 1939.

How did you and chef Guy Martin work together on the restaurant Le 68?

For the restaurant, there was just this instant connection: Guy is naturally curious and passionate about the seasons—at Guerlain we speak “seasons.” Basically, I said, this is who we are—185 years of fragrances—so just explore and do your thing. What I love is that with Shalimar, for example, everyone always talks about it as an oriental vanilla, but Guy seized on all its citrus notes and extrapolated it into a macaron with marmalade and a zing of bergamot. As it turns out, his mother wore Shalimar, so he understood immediately. He’s also [transformed] La Petite Robe Noire into a chocolate pastry. There are so many clever details—it’s a true feast.

What are the other new additions to the house?

Upstairs, there is a private salon for bespoke consultations, another space where bottles can be customized with ribbons, and a [room] where we’ve reintroduced limited-edition archival pieces like silk scarves, fans and perfumed gloves. When Guerlain was named official supplier to the Empress Eugenie, in 1853, it was also a gantier, or glove maker. I had to learn everything about leather treatment because if you miss the window for adding fragrance, it’s too late. My job was to find that moment. We did some gloves with Mitsouko, and others with La Petite Robe Noire, which is subtler.

Is there a story behind La Petite Robe Noire Couture?

This is La Petite Robe Noire’s glamorous sister; she’s the one who’s out there on the red carpet at night. She’s floral, fruity, bubbly, slightly eccentric and vivacious. You could say that the length has changed—there’s a different color and texture; it’s an evening gown. There’s still this gourmand and fruity character. The top note is sparkling because it’s like Oscar night, so I amped up the bergamot. But I emphasized its depth and presence with chypre to add mystery. My idea is not to create a collection, but rather, the woman who wears it has grown along with [the fragrance].
VISUELS MASTER DP LPRN.indd
68 Avenue des Champs-Élysées, Paris, France, +33 1 45 62 52 57

Photos: Francois Goizé

Beauty 411: Dawn and Samantha Goldworm

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goldworm

For New England-bred twin sisters Dawn and Samantha Goldworm, scent isn’t merely an accessory, it’s a lifestyle. It’s upon that credo that the platinum-maned pair have built 12.29, their olfactive branding company that has, since its launch in 2009, been busily creating custom scents for luxury boutiques, private homes, and a slew of runways—Rodarte, Jason Wu, and Prabal Gurung among them. And as of November, the sisters Goldworm have a home fragrance collection to call their own. The five new 12.29 candles (available at onlyscentremains.com) have dreamy scents and equally dreamy names—like A Vivid and Wild Beauty, a blend of milky florals and earth and fresh green notes—and a distinctly elegant presentation: Each is housed in fine porcelain courtesy of Limoges. Here, the fragrance-focused duo share their beauty favorites and, naturally, preferred scents.

THE WELL-SCENTED SALON: Whittemore House
“We followed Victoria and Larry from Bumble and Bumble to their own chic West Village salon, Whittemore House, years ago. We love the cucumber water they offer upon arrival, and Victoria is the queen of balayage. The salon also smells lovely, with a custom 12.29 scent that wafts throughout the space.”

45 Grove St., (212) 242-8880; whittemorehousesalon.com.

THE BEST BET FOR BLONDS: Oribe
“We are in love with the newly designed line of Oribe hair products. Not only is the packaging modern and chic, but the formulas smell delicious. We use the Oribe Ultra Gentle Conditioner and Gold Lust Nourishing Hair Oil.”

See oribe.com.

THE ARTFUL NAIL SPOT: Sakura
“I am a big fan of Japanese nail art, and Sakura is my go-to salon in NYC. It takes approximately two hours for a session, but the results are well worth it.” —Samantha

See nailspasakura.com.

THE POLISHES OF CHOICE
“Although not super well known for its nail products, NARS has the best color and quality polishes. I am currently obsessed with a deep Purple called Fury. My other go-tos are OPI Big Apple Red and Essie Ballet Slippers.” —Dawn

See narscosmetics.com; opi.com; essie.com.

THE FRENCH SKINCARE REGIMEN
“I swear by Amore Pacific skincare. All the products have a beautiful texture, and my skin is left smooth and luminous.” —Samantha

See amorepacific.com.

“I use a combination of Lancôme Absolue Premium Bx, La Roche-Posay Hydraphase, and Bioderma Créaline H20. My years in Paris changed my regimen. The French really know skincare best.” —Dawn

See lancome-usa.com; larocheposay-us; bioderma.com.

THE MINIMAL MAKEUP
“Neither of us wears a lot of makeup. Our mother always had a fresh, clean, natural face, and so we [gravitate] toward the same. However, we never leave the house without mascara: Lancôme Ôscillation or Definicils. And for Samantha, a touch of lipstick: MAC Ruby Woo or Lady Danger.”

See lancome-usa.com; maccosmetics.com.

THE SPA RETREAT
“The Mandarin Oriental Spa at the Time Warner Center in New York is the ultimate for a massage and relaxation.”

See mandarinoriental.com/newyork/luxury-spa.

THE FACIAL GETAWAY
“For the most luxurious facial, I love The Guerlain Spa on the Champs-Elysées in Paris. You can curate your session by choosing a Guerlain perfume to scent the entire experience. So decadent!” —Dawn

See guerlain.com

THE SCENT SCHEME
“I am loyal to the 1992 Purple Perfume by 12.29.” —Samantha

“The only scented product I wear on my person is my perfume. It is an animalic Oriental with a touch of spice; very sexy, deep, and personal. And I scent all of our family homes with amber, and of course the 12.29 candle collection.” —Dawn

See onlyscentremains.com.

THE DETOX
“Samantha and I regularly do juice detoxes when the seasons change to give our bodies a rest and rejuvenate. We also try to drink a fresh juice every morning. Our favorite juice spots in the city are Juice Press on East 10th Street and Organic Avenue on Third Avenue for its coconut water. In Paris, Bob’s Juice Bar in the Marais has great fresh juice and super-yummy food.”

See juicepress.com; organicavenue.com; and bobsjuicebar.com.

THE WELL-BALANCED WORKOUT: Yoga
“Yoga is our meditation. We have both been practicing it for years—it is our exercise, our discipline, and our balance. Our teachers are Lady Ruth Lauer-Manenti and Rima Rabbath at Jivamukti Yoga Center. The Jiva Cafe also has an amazing selection of vegan food.”

See jivamuktiyoga.com.

Honey Do

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guerlain spa

As iconic New York spots go, few can rival the cachet of the Waldorf-Astoria, whose roster of notable tenants includes the likes of Cole Porter, Marilyn Monroe, and gangster Bugsy Siegel. Another reason to add the fabled hotel to your Big Apple itinerary? The Guerlain Spa, which, perched on the nineteenth floor, now holds a special spot in this jaded New Yorker’s heart. After successfully bypassing the ground-floor Guerlain boutique, I headed upstairs to be received in what is arguably one of the most opulent salon foyers in Manhattan, where guests can shop the brand’s skincare—though you’ll probably prefer to make your way to the Grand Salon, where a well-curated selection of glossies and Prosecco await. The labyrinthine spa offers all the intimacy and meticulous sense of detail of a well-hidden gem on a much larger scale (think fourteen-thousand square feet and fifteen treatment rooms). My indulgence of choice? The deeply nourishing, eighty-minute Abeille Royale Youth Facial, a new addition to the treatment menu. Its star player, royal jelly, has been prized since ancient times for its healing and renewing properties. Guerlain ups the ante of the time-honored ingredient with its Royale Jelly Concentrate, collected from the house’s signature bees (which are kept, dreamily enough, on the French island of Ouessant). In addition to no fewer than two masks, steam, light extractions, and a paraffin hand wrap, the facial’s apian theme continues with the recently launched Abeille Royale Face Treatment Oil—a luxurious, amber-hued oil that firms and hydrates skin simultaneously. What could be sweeter?

$295, 100 E. 50th St., New York, (212) 872-7200; guerlainspas.com.

#DiorRob Goes Viral; Shalimar’s Evolution; The Inevitable Rise of DD Creams; and More…

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Dior-Pattinson_sizedAfter months of eager anticipation, an image from Robert Pattinson’s forthcoming Dior Homme Parfum finally leaked over the weekend. The French fashion house released a steamy behind-the-scenes shot of RPatz grinning at a female model while draped over the side of a bathtub, tweeting, “A new story is about to start. #DiorRob.” That’s a hashtag we can get behind. [Dior Twitter]

Guerlain’s Shalimar became an instant classic upon its 1925 debut and still maintains a cult following. Lifestyle Mirror paid tribute to the iconic fragrance by charting its evolution—from its first print advertisement to Jade Jagger’s redesign of the bottle in 2010 and Natalia Vodianova’s recent campaigns.

Catching up on your Instagram and Facebook feeds in bed could be making you fat, according to researchers. Bright, high-contrast mobile screens can disturb circadian rhythms, making it more difficult to fall asleep and raising stress levels that can stoke appetites. The message: “Choose The Tonight Show over Twitter.”

With the rise of now-ubiquitous BB and CC creams, it was only a matter of time until DD (Daily Defense) creams hit the market. The new alphabetic product will reportedly offer increased antiaging properties to reduce fine lines and wrinkles over time—in addition to built-in color correcting, SPF, and skincare benefits.

The Fab Five: Bringing Home The Bronze

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Fab-Five-BronzersThe freak, rain-forest-like conditions that have befallen the New York area over the past few weeks have delayed the start of our summer beach weekends for the moment. But no matter; we’re plenty happy to get our glow on with a host of new bronzers that are currently hitting shelves. From powders and pigmented oils to liquids and creams, there are a ton of ways to simulate the sun until it makes its grand return. Read on below for five of our favorites.

Go for Gold
Guerlain Terra Ora Powder Compact
Guerlain is the gold standard when it comes to bronzers, so it should come as no surprise that its limited-edition offering for 2013 is one of our favorites. The wooden compact is pressed with its classic matte tan powder, which is accented with hints of finely milled white-, yellow-, and rose-gold flecks to subtly highlight the face—and the décolletage, if you’re feeling frisky.

Powder Hour
YSL Terre Saharienne Bronzing Powder
If you’re looking for something that is decidedly devoid of shimmer, the latest from YSL should do you right. Available in three face-flattering shades, including No. 10 Terre Amber, No. 2 Terre Ochre, and No. 3 Terre Tan, each one contours and sculpts cheeks while imparting a natural-looking glow.

Step Into Liquid
Estée Lauder Bronze Goddess Luminous Liquid Bronzer
When the summer heat gets so overbearing that patting on a powder seems simply impossible, liquid bronzers can become your best friend. This one melts into the skin to carve out a hint of golden color without the risk of caking or flaking.

Oil Future
Clarins Splendours Shimmer Body Oil
To keep the body bronzed and beautiful, we often prefer glimmering oils, and the latest from Clarins is no exception. The cocoa-scented fluid glides onto limbs, leaving behind a sleek, sun-effected shine.

Copper Top
Belmacz Eyeshadow in Stardust
This one is designated for eyes only, but its creamy copper color, which is loaded with light-reflecting pigments, is begging for some multitasking. (Your clavicles with thank you).

Photo: Courtesy of