3 posts tagged "Hakaan"
Lip color, like fur or chiffon, tends to be a seasonal thing. While all manners of pinks, berries, grays, nudes, reds, and oranges typically hit the runway for Spring, Fall often favors straightforward scarlets and the occasional smattering of dark bordeaux to keep things interesting. Case in point: MAC’s forthcoming matte crimson bullet in Runaway Red has been a backstage staple at shows like Diane von Furstenberg and Antonio Marras, while wine-stained mouths have made a convincing case at David Koma, Missoni, and even Damir Doma this morning in Paris.
In our personal life, however, we’re of the mind that certain shades shouldn’t be constricted to warmer or cooler months—none more so than varying takes on tangerine, which can be worn sheer and glossy or heavy and opaque no matter the weather outside. Charlotte Tilbury, it seems, couldn’t agree more. Yesterday at Hakaan, the makeup artist was adding to the season’s recurring masculine-feminine theme with a beauty look that was “handsome, boyish, but still sexy,” featuring, you guessed it, an orange pout. “It’s a mix of hard and softness,” Tilbury said of the matte lip she painted on using MAC Pro Lipmix in Orange mixed with its Lipstick in Ruby Woo, a vivid blend that stood out in stark contrast to the subtle wash of MAC Pro Sculpting Cream in Chestnut that Tilbury blended over eyes and then lacquered with MAC Pro Gloss Texture for glisten. Strong, structured brows and sculpted cheeks added that extra bit of toughness. But not all girls got the flame-colored treatment; some were only given a fingerful of concealer for a custom nude lip. In a show littered with boldfaced names, one has to wonder if the brighter pigment signified a certain pecking order—hierarchy determined by lipstick. If this logic holds true, Mariacarla, Natalia, Karolina, Freja, and even Arizona just officially out-supered Kasia, Natasha, and Anja.
Carmen Kass’ new crop at Balmain is only part of the big hair story developing in Paris this week. A hue we’re calling “Balenciaga Blond” is the other. The night before Nicholas Ghesquière sent his houndstooth coats and runway-ready brothel creepers down the catwalk, Redken’s Guido Palau was busy at work bleaching more than one head of hair. Dutch model Milou van Groesen (who was apparently “street cast” by Ghesquière but already has a huge following in the Netherlands) had her blond locks chopped, spiked, and turned platinum, as did Alexander Wang’s opener for Spring, Britt Maren, and Czech stunner Jana Knauerova, who went blond this May and platinum for Balenciaga. Our most favorite Palau transformation was Kasia Struss, who killed it at Balmain later in the day with her new, cornsilk-white hair.
The icy color is becoming something of a trend at the Spring shows. Iris Strubegger got in on the action at Hakaan, letting Christophe Robin lighten her locks for the show. And who can forget coif master Orlando Pita’s blond ambition for Abbey Lee Kershaw, who wowed at the New York shows with platinum strands, which she debuted at the Chanel Soho store opening? According to sources, Lee’s hair hasn’t been taking too well to all the lightening—presumably because to keep the color that saturated, it needs to be re-dyed every three weeks, according to celebrity stylist Marie Robinson. “You shouldn’t wash it more than a few times a week, and it also needs protein,” Robinson—a platinum blonde herself—added, mentioning that Joico’s K Pak line is a good option for at-home treatment. As to why the color is having a moment for Spring, Robinson’s bet is that it has something to do with Hollywood. “There are all those Marilyn Monroe movies coming out,” she said. “And Michelle Williams did it [at Cannes]. Unless you’re super naturally blonde, though, it’s not a good idea to do it yourself,” the colorist advises for those of you hoping to get the look. “You’re asking for trouble.” Brunettes, consider yourselves warned.
For those of you clicking through the Hakaan show this morning only to discover a Rihanna look-alike pop out at you in slide 7, let us explain: No, the “Umbrella” singer was not a backstage inspiration, and no, that is not a wig styled to mimic the Barbados beauty’s recent transition to fire-engine red locks. That is, however, model Milica Blagojevic’s real hair, dyed on site by colorist Christophe Robin, who also tinted Shirley Mallmann’s blond tresses a shade of lilac gray (that is not, however, a real nasal bridge piercing that Mallmann and the rest of her catwalking cohorts were spotted with on the runway). Robin had the distinguished task of taking both models back to their original colors post-show, so look out for Blagojevic as a brunette at Cacharel on Saturday.