15 posts tagged "Hannah Murray"
The cat was out of the bag when the invitations to Topshop Unique’s Spring show went out last week; the enlarged, black-and-white screen print of Elizabeth Taylor in 1963′s Cleopatra all but spelled out the inspiration for the retail giant’s Spring presentation. “It’s Egyptian, and hieroglyphics,” nail guru Sophy Robson said, painting a base of four different custom-blended colors onto all of the models, including pink, red, blue, and gold lacquers, and then topping them off with a series of hieroglyphic-inspired stickers and hand designs (that’s 400-plus fingers total, if anyone’s counting). “There’s definitely an Elizabeth Taylor in Cleopatra influence,” hairstylist Paul Hanlon confirmed, although he steered clear of Liz’s iconic black boxed bob, which he thought would look “retro and tacky.” Instead, Hanlon took the collection’s heavy-on-the gold palette and applied it to the hair. “Gel can look cheap and I wanted something expensive,” he said, spritzing a glossing spray onto the top of models’ heads and applying sheets of real gold leaf in one of the most original coiffing techniques we’ve seen yet. “I’m putting honey onto the hair and blowing the gold leaf on top so it sticks, because it’s very delicate,” Hanlon explained matter-of-factly. (Yes, we said honey.) To add “a youthful, haphazard effect,” he let the ends hang down in damp waves and proceeded to crack the gold leaf with a makeup brush so it appeared as though someone had “hit it with a hammer.”
With all the glitz and nail art, makeup artist Hannah Murray’s only choice was to keep the face pared down. “It’s a little bit of a Helmut Lang nineties girl,” she said, dabbing on Topshop’s Duo Concealer and using its Skin Glow, a rose illuminator, on the forehead, down the nose, and on cheekbones for a “polished feel.” While we imagine the urge to paint on a set of bold, black, Liz-like arches was hard to resist, Murray made like the rest of the makeup establishment this season and used Topshop Eyeshadow in Walnut to naturally build brows so they looked “brushed-up and boyish.”
Last season, Topshop hit on the seventies trend. For Fall there was something a little more off-kilter afoot backstage. “It’s all about Katie Grand’s humor,” shear genius Paul Hanlon said of the super-stylist’s 101 Dalmatians‘ directive, which inspired him to employ Japanese geisha techniques for rolling hair into two dog ears and finishing them off with black ribbon bows. “We made the ear shapes no bigger than our fists; otherwise it would take away the chic element,” Hanlon said of the style, which he prepped with TIGI Bed Head Superstar Queen For a Day thickening spray. That element was decidedly diminished by the shiny black triangles makeup artist Hannah Murray drew onto ten models’ noses, but fun rather than fashion has been the name of the beauty game in London thus far (see face painter James O’Reilly’s confetti-clad faces at Louise Gray).
Almost a year after launching Topshop’s makeup line, Murray had the range’s vast selection of offerings at her disposal for playing. “This is a real Topshop girl who’s tough and cool, so I gave her a bold black, grungy eye,” Murray said of the Topshop Eye Kohl in Coal she etched along models’ inner and outer lash lines, asking them to blink to give the look an authentic smudge. Bleached brows were also on the agenda, with all 44 girls hitting the peroxide bottle. “I wanted the skin to be really creamy and by bleaching the brows, it gives this rich effect,” Murray explained of her decision to eschew Fall’s fuller brows.
To complete the Dalmatians theme, nail guru Sophy Robson painted spots onto nails. “It’s the new animal print,” she quipped of Topshop’s matte white polish topped off with glossy black puddles. Heel, ladies. We’re going to bet that Robson posts a tutorial on her well-read blog sometime soon with step-by-step instructions for duplication.
After Fall’s barefaced beauty moment, we were thrilled to see so much colorful makeup last week in New York. And with day four of London fashion week almost wrapped up, it seems brights are going to be very big indeed for Spring—particularly on eyes. To better serve Mary Katrantzou’s stellar digitized prints, face painter Val Garland channeled a box of Laduree’s pastel macarons, which resulted in a wash of different eye shadows, including shades of lavender, aqua, and buttercup yellow—a happy hue that makeup artist Hannah Murray also played with backstage at Michael van der Ham. Over at Louise Gray, James O’Riley took things in a slightly darker direction, etching a creamy royal blue line around both upper and lower lash lines using MAC’s Waveline Fluidline and coating lashes with a mix of MAC Pro Hi-Def Chromacake in Cyan and its Pro Lash Mixing Medium for a flash of contrasting color. A bold lid is fast becoming this season’s accessory of choice, and if you plan on finally taking a dip into that drawer of violet, gold, and emerald green shadows and liner pens you’ve been hoarding for looking-at-only purposes, we’ve gleaned a few good tips over the past couple of weeks that may be of assistance: Use a pencil or a matte shadow as a base to hold looser pigments in place; a simple smudge of Vaseline or Aquaphor can give a flat powder pigment a modern wet look; and remember, according to Lancôme creative director of makeup Aaron De Mey, matching your shadow to your clothes in homage to Kiki de Montparnasse’s signature style can be a very good thing.
Saturday Night Fever hit New York last week with Marc Jacobs’ Studio 54 divas, Badgley Mischka’s angelic disco dolls, and Halston’s, well, Halstonettes. Now the designers at London’s Topshop Unique have caught the seventies vibe. Backstage, where makeup artist Hannah Murray was hard at work, it was all about groomed power arches, made to look brushed up à la Brooke Shields with individual pencil strokes, and a patent leather-finish red lip created using Topshop’s Lipstick Pencil in Flame topped off with its Gloss in Cardinal Sin. Employing the rickracking technique Guido Palau used at big and little Marc, coif master Paul Hanlon brushed out texture into what he described as triangle-shaped, voluminous “Saturday night” hair. The twist came in the form of extensions in an “antique pastel shade” used to bulk out tresses. As for that quintessential seventies glow, Lady Gaga’s go-to tanner, James Read, was charged with giving models a dark high-maintenance bronze with Saint Tropez’ wash-off mousse, which he layered three times for a “real retro impact.” (Anyone who noticed Gaga’s next-level fake-baked complexion at the VMAs two weekends ago knows that Read does not mess around.)
We told you it was in the works last summer, and more details have finally surfaced about Topshop’s proposed beauty line. Set to bow in May at its top 30 locations (the Soho store included!), the U.K. retailer will be launching two cosmetics ranges: a core line of staples and a seasonal trend collection. Both were designed by the company’s consulting makeup artist Hannah Murray, who works on its ad campaigns and happened to whip up those feral eyebrows backstage at Unique last weekend, using select items from the new range. The products are designed to echo fashion-forward colors often found in Topshop’s clothing and to foster a newfound willingness to experiment—in other words, true to the try-and-see mentality currently sweeping the beauty world. A cement-colored nail polish, a strong lavender eye kohl, and a smoky eye palette are positioned to help women get their basics or push the envelope, all within a price range of $8 to $20. Click here for a sneak peek at the new line. [WWD]