6 posts tagged "Helmut Lang"
The moment: Chic Hardware
The motivation: As we shift toward a beauty landscape that celebrates individualism, edgy looks like androgynous hairstyles, wild lipstick shades, and designer grills hardly raise an eyebrow anymore. But the statement at the Christian Dior Fall 2001 runway show was delightfully shocking, even by today’s standards. Models wore multiple studs and hoops through their lips, septums, and other unexpected spots on their faces. The bold accessories were paired with colorful hairpieces and graphic makeup. Designers continue to experiment with punk rock jewelry, like the ear cuffs at Fendi and the knuckle rings at Chanel Couture—and they’re even letting models keep in their own adornments while they work. One chic example: Katlin Aas’ cluster of earrings in the Helmut Lang Pre-Fall lookbook. Her piercings were a nice contrast to the classic colors and silhouettes in the line. With fashion month in full swing, we can’t wait to see what rebellious touches will be in demand come fall.
What immediately caught my eye upon seeing the images of Helmut Lang’s Pre-Fall collection was model Katlin Aas’ multiple piercings that the designers let her keep in for the shots—along with her tattoo, which nicely complements the navy pieces in the mostly black and white line. With multiple catwalkers (such as Daiane Conterato) getting their cartilage pierced—and others putting their own stamp on things—the army of monotonous fashion robots that used to rule the runways seems to be steadily dissolving.
Joan Smalls and Selena Gomez were recently seen sporting black lipstick, but Rooney Mara’s deep merlot mouth, which she wore to the Oxfam charity gala in Dubai last night, was just as dramatic (and a lot more wearable). The diffused perimeter—an effect that appeared at both Mary Katrantzou and Helmut Lang for Spring 2014—made this strong shade look slightly softer. Break out your blending brush along with a berry-hued bullet (such as CK One Color Shine Lipstick in Naughty), and you’re pretty much holiday-party ready.
Celebs are breaking out the burgundy en masse (à la Helmut Lang Spring 2014). Whether you choose to coordinate it with what you’re wearing (like Kat Dennings and Taylor Swift) or completely contrast a white gown (illustrated by Rita Ora), riding this color wave will put you right on trend.
Not to be unexpected, but my chats with hair pro Paul Hanlon and face painter Hannah Murray at Helmut Lang were rife with references to the nineties—from Peter Lindbergh’s images of the era’s supermodels to one of the label’s original muses, Kirsten Owen. However, instead of grungy and destroyed, both artists approached the decade with a bit more polish and sophistication.
To juxtapose the slouchy silhouettes in the collection, Hanlon kept the hair less “street” and more groomed. “We were worried that if the hair was too natural, it would look wishy-washy and drab,” he explained. After prepping strands with Unite 7Seconds Condition Leave In Detangler and Session Whip (a weightless sculpting foam) for shine and girth, he blew the hair smooth and straight with a round bristle brush and touched up the ends with a flat iron. Next, Hanlon added a clean side part and liberally sprayed the top, section by section, with Max Control Spray Strong Hold. Once the hair was tucked neatly behind the model’s ears, he hit it again with some heat to lock everything into place. Then, a low tail was secured with an elastic and hidden underneath a custom black Helmut Lang cover (a strip of Velcro was affixed inside to give it grip). “Rather than putting the ponytail in tight, we kept it loose to provide an element of ease and reality…with this type of style and that accessory, the hair can look a little too S&M-y,” he said.
As for the makeup, Murray’s ode to the inspiration was obviously the brown-red mouth—a blend of two NARS Satin Lip Pencils in Golshan and Het Loo. “I’m using a lip brush to apply, and diffusing [the pigment] around the edges with a domed blending brush that’s normally reserved for the eyes to get intense color that doesn’t look too done,” she said. The rest of the face was left “raw,” only applying concealer—no base—where needed. To achieve a ruddy flush, Murray warmed up the same Golshan pencil used on the lips on the back of her hand and pressed it onto the lower half of the cheeks with her fingertips. Triple X Lip Gloss was tapped on the centers of the eyelids and the excess applied to the tops of the cheekbones to catch the light (although Murray disclosed that Egyptian Magic All-Purpose Skin Cream can be used for the same effect). The brows were left bare, aside from a clear setting gel, and lashes remained mascara-less. Looks like minimalism is back with quite a beautiful vengeance.