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July 11 2014

styledotcom Modesty was the dominant theme during the second day of Berlin fashion week: stylem.ag/1lXloxm pic.twitter.com/U4SjhEhKlD

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5 posts tagged "Humberto Leon"

The Downtown Way to Wear the Color of the Year

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Beauty_BLOG_collage

“Simplistic” and “realistic” were two of the adjectives that face painter Aaron de Mey used to describe the makeup look he created for Opening Ceremony’s Fall 2014 collection. Those words, however, don’t exactly lend themselves to Pantone’s color of the year, Radiant Orchid—but that’s exactly what De Mey reached for to create the Antwerpen flush seen on the runway. “We wanted to do something that felt natural, youthful, and almost naive, so Aaron felt like the cheeks were a perfect way to play it,” said codesigner of the label, Humberto Leon. As for why De Mey employed the purple hue instead of your traditional pink or peach: “It’s refreshing, brighter, and a bit more direct,” he explained. The trick is to use a cream formula, like the Sephora + Pantone Universe Ravishing Dew Cream Blush applied at the show, and blend out the edges with concealer or foundation. “This makes the color feel like it’s coming from underneath the skin rather than on top,” he said. As for the placement, the pro noted wearing your blush high and central helps hide dark circles (and honestly, who doesn’t need help in that area?). The idea to use this punchy pigment on the apples instead of the spot that initially comes to mind (the lips) was also “less obvious and more surprising,” added Leon—kind of like the dripping chocolate wall (developed in tandem with chocolatiers and Princeton scientists) that inspired many a memorable NYFW Instagram moment.

To try the shade on for size, visit the Sephora + Pantone Universe Pop-Up Green House located in the Big Screen Plaza on West 29th Street between Sixth and Seventh Avenues from 11 a.m. to 7 p.m., March 27-29.

Photo: Getty; Courtesy of Sephora

Twin Peaks Meets Blue Velvet, Backstage at Kenzo

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kenzo“We’re taking a classic look and twisting it—a bit like a David Lynch film,” explained mane master Anthony Turner. Inspired by the collaboration between the designers (Carol Lim and Humberto Leon) and the famed director on the sculptural set and music for today’s show, the backstage pro crafted a “Twin Peaks ponytail.” After making a strong center part and securing the hair at the back of the head, he wrapped the band with extensions and “hacked off” the ends with scissors or “men’s clippers,” forming a blunt, severe line. To cancel any flyaways, L’Oréal Professionnel Mythic Oil was smoothed on top.

Another Lynch film, Blue Velvet, obviously served as a reference for face painter Aaron de Mey. He used MAC Chromaline in Marine Ultra on the upper rims, a shade he described as “Yves Klein blue.” His reason for selecting such a vibrant hue: “The [runway] is dark and tough, so this gives it an elevation and illumination.” As for the “fifties” wing shape, it was reminiscent of Sherilyn Fenn’s signature cat-eye in the aforementioned nineties series, de Mey explained. The finishing touch that channeled the cinematic theme were models’ flocked navy nails, whose fuzzy texture and color recalled—what else?—Isabella Rossellini’s crushed velvet robe.

Photo: Indigitalimages.com

A Sun-Savvy Bracelet You’ll Actually Want to Wear; Narciso Rodriguez May Venture Into Makeup; and More

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june-bracelet-cropAside from the announcement that Opening Ceremony’s Humberto Leon and Carol Lim have teamed up with Intel to design a smart bracelet, Gizmag.com reports on another piece of innovative arm candy that made its debut at the Consumer Electronics Association show in Las Vegas. Netatmo’s June bracelet, designed by Camille Toupet (who has collaborated with the likes of Louis Vuitton and Harry Winston), tracks your UV exposure. The gem—available in platinum, gold, and gunmetal—contains sensors that transmit data wirelessly to your smartphone, sending its wearer notifications on when to apply sunblock, put on a hat, and slip on sunglasses.

Narciso Rodriguez and Beauté Prestige International inked a deal regarding the brand’s “fragrance and cosmetic activities.” Seeing as the designer doesn’t have a makeup line just yet, perhaps this is a sign of things to come. [WWD]

It’s not just fake bags and Rolex watches people are pushing on both the streets and online—counterfeit beauty products are equally big business. MAC and Chanel are two of the many brands being consistently knocked off, and some of these imposter eyeshadows boast dangerous levels of lead and bacteria. Consider the few extra dollars you spend on the real deal a bargain in comparison to the bill you’ll rack up at the dermatologist’s office. [Yahoo! Shine]

The Viceroy Zihuatanejo is serving up “spa tapas.” These mini treatments—ranging from a 15-minute head massage to foot massage—are available while you sit on the sand. We could use one of these tapas right about now.

Estée Lauder’s Beauty Advisors Represent

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Estee Lauder Beauty Advisor

There is no shortage of collaborations in the beauty world (Jason Wu and Alber Elbaz recently partnered with Lancôme, Amy Smilovic of Tibi teamed up with Jin Soon, and the list could go on…), but it’s usually the compacts and colors inside them that benefit from these designer makeovers—not necessarily the women and men selling them behind the counter. Leave it to Estée Lauder, the classic cosmetic house, to switch up the game. The seemingly uptown brand turned to downtown designers Carol Lim and Humberto Leon, of Opening Ceremony, to create a custom-made Beauty Advisor wardrobe. Going back to the label’s heritage—Estée believed that the women pushing her products acted not only as salespeople but also served as beauty muses themselves—the design duo customized every aspect of their outfits, down to the buttons and specially made jacquard-print fabric (inspired by the iconic rope-weave pattern found on vintage packaging). Seeing as the original Mrs. Lauder was the first in the industry to tie her counter employees’ looks to specific seasons and launches, the new uniforms will also have modifiable elements—like a detachable belt that can be embellished with new colors and fabrics, depending on what comes down the pipeline. The pieces—including a peplum blouse, slim pant, pleated skirt, and blazer—have a retro silhouette but a thoroughly modern look, explained Lim and Leon. Leave it to Lauder to chicly part the sea of all-black ensembles that have become standard on the beauty-department floor.

Check out these exclusive behind-the-scenes shots and see how the looks came to life:

Estee Lauder Behind the Scenes

Photos: Courtesy of Estée Lauder

Taking A “Fumble In The Jungle,” Backstage At Kenzo

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Backstage at Kenzo, the evidence of Carol Lim and Humberto Leon’s already impactful influence on the house they took over two seasons ago was visible everywhere. We’d say, and this is a conservative estimate, that 30 percent of the production crew, hair and makeup artists, publicists, and catwalkers assembled there were wearing one of the design duo’s gotta-have-it logo sweatshirts or sweaters from Fall, with or without tiger head. They had an equally exciting lineup hung on racks for Spring, which had a bright, fun beauty look to match. “They wanted the girls to really have a progression,” said makeup artist Yadim, who explained that the models were meant to seem as though they had walked into the jungle and then got consumed by it.

This necessitated not one but six different eye liner looks. “It’s slightly rave, modern and graphic,” Yadim continued of the thick etching of MAC Chromaline in taupe, black, forest green, yellow, orange, and bright green that he traced around models’ lids, drawing it to a point in the inner corner of the eye and leaving a small gap in the otherwise fluid shape in the center of lower lash lines “for a surprise.” Marian Newman painted nails with a corresponding four-polish palette of MAC Nail Lacquers in a bright mandarin, a glossy taupe, a deep nude, and a rich emerald, for an added touch of color, although the eyes were still the focus. To make them stand out even more, Yadim kept upper and lower lashes heavy and clumpy with MAC Haute & Naughty mascara while taking down lips, beefing up brows, and giving cheeks a slight contour with MAC Blush in Taupe. “I’m also using lots of highlighter,” he emphasized of the concentrated brushstrokes of its Cream Colour Base in Pearl that he swept across cheekbones, along the brow ridge, down the bridge of the nose, and onto the Cupid’s bow of mouths, pulling Sui He over to illustrate how her skin glowed with a luminescent dewiness (and it did).

“She’s had a bit of a fumble in the jungle,” Anthony Turner elaborated of the idea, dousing hair with TIGI Catwalk Session Series Salt Spray as a rousing rendition of “Happy Birthday” broke out for Magda Laguinge. Letting strands air-dry to create a piece-y texture, the hairstylist explained that the thesis here hasn’t changed; his objective is still to “bring New York to Paris” with a cool, young feel that has an air of effortlessness to it—and a little something extra. “I’m going to rough them up a bit before they hit the runway,” Turner promised.

Photo: Greg Kessler