2 posts tagged "Ineke Rühland"
With the onset of fall comes an influx of fragrances designed to woo you into sweater-wearing with a wealth of warm and cozy aromas (think: vanilla, musk, leather, woods, cinnamon, et al.). But the latest crop of scents from some of the perfumery industry’s niche stars might surprise you in their compositions. Predictably spring florals are given heady updates with new technologies and forward-thinking scent structures, while olfactory inspirations range from literature to the Ballets Russes; you gotta love the independent spirit. Here, we’ve picked our five favorites to get you through the season.
L’Artisan Parfumeur Seville a l’Aube
While the French brand’s eaux are frequently inspired by travel, L’Artisan’s master perfumer Bertrand Duchaufour was taken with the book The Perfume Lover, a tale of romance and fragrance by Denyse Beaulieu, this time around. Set during holy week in Seville, Andalusia, it depicts incense burners imbuing the southern Spanish city with a spicy aroma that mingles with the sweetness of orange flower tree-lined streets. Duchaufour’s spritzable version, which includes top notes of tangy green sap and rare infusions of Luiseiri lavender that are reminiscent of more classic eau de cologne, is mixed with an intoxicating jasmine accord and beeswax for an incredibly rich, fresh-tinged finish.
Ineke Ruhland Hothouse Flower: Gardenia
After training at Quest International, a fragrance house that was ultimately acquired by Givaudan, the Canadian Dutch-born Ruhland set up her own perfume studio in San Francisco in 2006, where she launched an alphabetical-themed lineup of botanical-based scents. She’s now up to H, for which she has released Hothouse Flower: Gardenia. “It’s really hard to get a good gardenia,” says Ruhland, pointing out that absolutes of the white flower are often blends of tuberose with green notes, which she’s done here to perfection. “Mine is super green,” she professes of the galbanum, cypress, fig, and frankincense-spiked scent.
Since focusing its detail-oriented energy on beauty last fall with an in-store apothecary, Anthropologie has established itself as more than just a destination for gorgeous sheet sets, garden party-appropriate dresses, and antique-inspired dressers. It’s also become a source for well-edited grooming products with a particular flair for scent. After a collaboration with bespoke fragrance favorite Le Labo, a selection of niche and novel flacons followed, pairing up-and-comers like Brooklyn’s D.S. & Durga with iconic brands like Annick Goutal. For its latest trick, the retail chain has debuted Floral Curiosities, a new partnership with perfumer Ineke Rühland. The underlying idea of the four-piece collection is to bottle the essence of rare botanicals. Angel’s Trumpet’s peach-colored blooms have been blended with refreshing notes of honeydew, Seville orange, cinnamon leaf, and allspice. Briar Rose, the thorny bush turned powdery scent, has been combined with black raspberry, bitter almond, and cacao absolute essences. Poet’s Jasmine’s white-petaled clusters inspired a herbal citrus eau, with hints of star anise, rosemary, and absinthe. And the orange flowers of Scarlet Larkspur have been reimagined as a floral oriental fragrance with notes of claret wine, nutmeg, saffron, and amyris wood. As to be expected, each is packaged in a bottle that happens to look fabulous perched atop of a shabby-chic vanity.