3 posts tagged "INOA"
As anyone who watched the commercials during the Golden Globe Awards is well aware, Gwen Stefani recently signed on as the newest member of L’Oréal’s celebrity spokesperson roster (they’ve got J. Lo and Beyoncé, too, for those of you counting). Stefani fronts ads for the beauty giant’s Infallible Le Rouge lipstick collection, a good match considering her appreciation for a glossy, vibrant red pout. Her other beauty statement, of course, is the platinum blond ‘do she’s been dyeing since well before No Doubt lit up the garage rock scene back in the early nineties.
The songstress-turned-fashion designer clearly has a thing for hair dye. For her L.A.M.B. show tonight, Stefani requested that models get L’Oréal Professionnel INOA treatments courtesy of famed New York colorist Eva Scrivo. “Being a designer and a woman, Gwen saw the link between color and fabric and fashion,” Scrivo told us last week when we sat in on an exclusive color session to prep models for Stefani’s Fall runway, which is loosely based around the idea of gangs. “It’s about boldness and girl power,” Scrivo said of the collection. “Adding dimension to the color adds dimension to the style, and it makes such a difference to the quality of the hair.”
Quality is the key word here; the whole wonder of INOA is its ammonia-free, oil delivery system, which allows it to deposit color molecules without busting the hair cuticle wide open. “The biggest trend for Fall is shiny, healthy hair—not specific colors,” Scrivo said. So don’t expect cotton-candy streaks tonight like those we’ve already seen backstage at Prabal Gurung, Theyskens’ Theory, and Jeremy Scott. What will you see? “A lot of matte browns with violet undertones, so colors that still have red in them, but cooler, more wearable reds.” For blondes, Scrivo is betting is on balayage highlights with “true neutral beige undertones—not too cool or warm.”
“We’re just basically ‘richening’ the hair,” Scrivo surmised of her undertaking, which included dyeing models’ brows. This, dear readers, is an easier, more permanent way to get Fall’s bigger, bushier arches. “You need to use a different formula because the hair is ashier,” Scrivo said of the dye mixture she was applying to the face. “It’s great because all the superfluous little hairs grab the color so they look thicker”—a welcomed alternative to applying pencils and powders on a daily basis.
Rossano Ferretti is into empire building. The Italian-born-and-bred hairstylist cut his teeth at his mother’s two-chair salon outside of Parma before heading to London to hone his craft. Then, after spells tending to Naomi and Linda’s tresses in the eighties and nineties and coiffing backstage for Armani and Chanel, he used his scissor skills to set up an eponymous salon system that currently spans the globe from Mexico to Serbia, with a Madrid-based international hair academy in between. This past January, Metodo Rossano Ferretti arrived in Paris, welcoming the likes of Carine Roitfeld and Salma Hayek to its hair spa. A cool five months later, Ferretti officially opened his 20th outpost last week in New York. So, why has the hair guru decided that now is the time to take Manhattan? “Because now, I am ready,” an ascot-wearing Ferretti told me from his freshly painted atelier on the sixth floor of Madison Avenue’s historic Fuller building. “Ready to lead the city.” Spoken like a true conqueror.
Ferretti’s midtown destination is sparse and chic and retains the same minimalist design elements that can be found at all of his properties as far as Mumbai (Ferretti picks out all of the black, white, and gray-toned furniture for his salons himself). The 2,300-square-foot space contains just eight cutting and four coloring chairs. In addition to a mani/pedi station and a VIP room, it also boasts the first INOA Color Room in the U.S., which is nestled into the southwest corner to benefit from two walls of light-flooding windows. Key to the salon’s ultimate success, however, is the presence of Ferretti himself; the shear genius intends on being on site ten days out of every month to “embrace [his] clients” and personally give them the tailored cuts that he is known for—plus a hefty dose of honest opinion. “Your haircut, it’s like getting an Alfa Romeo in red because that’s what everyone does,” Ferretti endearingly said of my choppy lob on a recent visit to his new digs. He went on to explain that I could “explode” my beauty with a shorter, jaw-framing ‘do; otherwise, letting my raven-colored locks grow back to their former waist-grazing length is really my only recourse. I’m not sure whether I will heed his advice in the immediate future, but I sure do love an Italian sports car metaphor, which—in conjunction with a treatment menu that includes Shu Uemura’s Art of Hair rituals and Kérastase styling products—will likely be enough to make me a repeat customer.
Rossano Ferretti Hair & Spa, 595 Madison Avenue at 57th Street, sixth floor, NYC; 212-759-9300; www.metodorossanoferretti.com.
When I was a kid, I had blond hair—flaxen, almost. Then, one day when I was seven years old, I realized it wasn’t blond anymore. I think I hadn’t had blond hair for a long time, but it had taken a while for reality to catch up with self-perception. Up to that day, I’d thought of myself as a boisterous, cherubic, blond-haired child, but apparently, none of that was true. Ten years later, I experienced the same jolt in reverse: After my family moved to Orlando, abundant sunshine (and chlorine) had bleached my coffee-colored hair back to flaxen. At that point, however, I saw myself as a dark character—the type of brooding beauty who wore turtlenecks and read Sartre and smoked Gitanes. Imagine my surprise, then, when on a visit to my future college, I overheard my pre-frosh host describe me as “tan and blond; very Florida.” What?
This history is all a lot of preface to a simple observation: Hair color is a state of mind. And for the majority of my adult life, my state of mind has been redhead. Not ginger, not fire engine red, but the auburn toastiness of Katharine Hepburn and Charlotte Rampling—that’s me, I figure. It is very, very hard to achieve this color via a dye job. The one time in my twenties I attempted to go red, I wound up with hair the color of a lollipop. Soon, the color washed down to something like a Nacho Dorito™, and I haven’t attempted red since. Until now: L’Oréal Professionnel has just introduced its new, ammonia-free INOA color system, which will roll out to salons nationwide next month. With it comes the promise of both subtle, hyper-pigmented, non-toxic color and the chance to have the job handled by a choice list of master colorists—which is what convinced me to give the process a preview. Auburn or bust…
I told Joel Warren, co-founder of Warren-Tricomi, that I wanted to err on the side of conservatism. He mixed up a shade just a little off my natural color and got to work. I barely noticed: When you have your hair dyed with INOA, there’s no smell and virtually no sting. There’s another big benefit, too. INOA uses MEA (monoethanolamine), an ammonia alternative that gently pries apart the hair cuticle, rather than busting it wide open like cops on a manhunt, which helps minimize damage. And among the 13 patents pending on INOA are technologies that deliver boosted lipid protection; I’ll skip the rest of the jargon here and simply attest that after the process, my hair felt strong and smooth, maybe even better than it had before. But what about the color? INOA delivered. Like all reds, there’s some fade after the first wash, and it’s possible my conservatism bit me in the ass, because I was having trouble seeing the color after a couple of weeks. But then, one day, I caught sight of my hair in a shop mirror, by chance, and it struck me that I’d gotten exactly what I’d always wanted: a warm, subtle red that you pick out in the right light. For once, I felt precisely like myself.