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April 19 2014

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6 posts tagged "Isabel Marant"

French Filles, Backstage at Isabel Marant

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isabel-marant“She likes really good skin,” said Lisa Butler of Isabel Marant’s makeup vision. “That’s where we’ve been spending our time—making sure it is absolutely flawless, but without looking really made up.” After prepping complexions with Shu Uemura DepSea Hydrability Intense Moisturizing Concentrate, Bobbi Brown full-coverage foundation was dabbed only where needed to ensure models’ faces still had “dimension.” Butler skipped contouring and mascara, but created a highlight on the eyes without piling on products. A “blob” of & Other Stories Face Contour Cream (a shimmery taupe shade) was applied to the inner and outer corners, then joined in the crease—leaving the center of the lid bare. A shadow in the same tone was dusted over the top to set. MAC Paint Pot in Antique Diamond was dotted along the bottom lashes with fingers for “twinkle.” For brows that were “thick and bushy” without being “dark and heavy,” Butler combed Anastasia Tinted Brow Gel in Auburn or Blonde through arches. Because the clothes were “quite strong and dark,” a berry hue was rubbed into the middle of the lips to make models look “pretty, not harsh.”

“She’s undone rather than overdone,” Sam McKnight explained of the always chic Marant woman. It’s a story we’ve heard before, but it never gets old. Show me a girl who doesn’t want to be “natural, sexy, and French” and I’ll show you a liar. The hair pro achieved this coveted cool-girl vibe by blow-drying strands using L’Oréal Professionnel Tecni Art Mousse, adding a slight bend with a curling iron for movement, and misting Bumble and Bumble Dryspun Finish throughout for texture. This style may be inspired by Parisians, but I’m taking it back to New York (along with those polar vortex-worthy fur boots that came down the catwalk).

Photo: Sonny Vandevelde; Indigitalimages.com

Sweet (And Sophisticated) Sixteen

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Chloe Grace Moretz
At just 16, the star of the soon-to-be-released Kick-Ass 2, Chloë Grace Moretz, is, well, kicking ass and taking names when it comes to making red-carpet appearances. Swapping the cropped purple wig she dons as Hit-Girl in the comic-book-based film for effortless auburn waves at today’s photo call in London, Moretz’s natural hair and makeup are reminiscent of the deconstructed curls and barely-there maquillage seen this past season at shows like Isabel Marant and Jill Stuart. While she told Glamour.com in a recent interview that she isn’t afraid to take a fashion risk (demonstrated by the skinny Savile Row-inspired suit and crisp button-up worn here), she’s still trying to figure out what flatters her as far as cosmetics are concerned. “I’ve seen so many disastrous things!” she says of makeup looks gone wrong. In this instance, we think this on-screen assassin has done a bang-up job of less-is-more.

Photo: Dave J. Hogan/Getty Images

New Faces, Same Girl, Backstage At Isabel Marant

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Isabel Marant is a favorite stop on our Paris tour, as much for the clothes as for the hair and makeup. With a casting like the one the reigning queen of Parisian cool typically commands—which this season garnered perennial French favorites like Aymeline Valade and Julia Frauche, as well as an international coterie of catwalkers cut from the same cloth, like Nadja Bender, Kasia Struss, and Caroline Brasch Nielsen—very little is needed to ensure that models are runway-ready. But it’s that deliberate, light-handed approach that is so impressive. For Fall, the face-painting reins were handed over to Estée Lauder creative makeup director Tom Pecheux, who knows a thing or two about channeling that special brand of effortless, French chic. “I’ve known [Marant] for a long time; I do a lot of her campaigns, and it’s a really good connection between Isabel and me—and me and Estée Lauder,” he explained, shouting out the beauty giant that picked up sponsorship duties here for the first time.

To ensure that skin looked flawless “but not too made-up,” Pecheux focused most of his energy on a pre-makeup facial treatment. “The massage takes 25 minutes, the makeup takes five minutes,” he joked, creating small, circular motions with a mixture of Lauder’s Advanced Night Repair Synchronized Recovery Complex and Idealist Pore Minimizing Skin Refinisher, as well as an emollient layer of its Revitalizing Supreme Global Anti-Aging Creme on top. If needed, Pecheux applied a minimal coverage of its Double Wear Light Stay-in-Place Makeup before giving everyone a subtle dusting of its Lucidity Translucent Loose Powder in Transparent for a “matte satin” finish. Working on a “friendly, not aggressive” contour, Pecheux used a mixture of Lauder’s Pure Color Blush in Sensuous Rose and Blushing Nude to sculpt the face with peachy hues, instead of sharper taupes and browns, before “flattening” eyes with a swipe of the light beige shade in its Pure Color EyeShadow Duo in Vanilla Pods. To lift lids back up again, he scrawled a barely perceptible stroke of shimmering gray shadow from its forthcoming Pure Color Instant Intense EyeShadow Trio in Smoked Chrome right onto the lash line to catch the light as models walked. “We’re doing everything but mascara,” he laughed, curling lashes and slicking on a nude lip while beefing up arches with Lauder’s Artist’s Brow Pencil/Double Groomer. “In France, you think of the eyebrows,” Pecheux elaborated of the face-framing touch. “It’s [our] version of the British rose [complexion].”

Paul Hanlon became another newly christened member of team Marant after shooting with the photographer David Sims on the set of Marant’s Spring ad campaign in Saint-Tropez. “I’m a big fan of her,” Hanlon said with genuine enthusiasm. “Every girl who sits in my chair says she wants to wear the clothes, which is a refreshing environment to be in.” Trying to work a bit of consistency back into the fold, Hanlon gave everyone extensions, not to lengthen but to thicken the hair, before applying Frédéric Fekkai Full Volume Mousse to add a subtle texture. “[Marant] wanted the hair to look more conditioned than it has,” Hanlon said, layering in its Silky Straight Ironless Smooth Finish Serum. “Like a young Carla Bruni or Jane Birkin—not so rock ‘n’ roll,” he explained of the barely perceptible shift in focus. Fashioning loosely centered parts, Hanlon proceeded to run lengths through a curling iron, just once, to create a very soft wave that he spritzed with a bit of water and shook out to “lighten the richness.” The Isabel Marant girl isn’t interested in a just-out-of-the-salon set, after all.

Catherine McNeil: Web Designer

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We go backstage at Isabel Marant every season not so much to see the beauty look—which is a reliable mix of cool girl with a hint of natural grit—but to actually see the cool girls; the casting at Marant’s show is some of the best in Paris. Aymeline, Kati, Kasia, Nadja, Iselin—the gang was all present and accounted for on the runway there earlier this month, as was Catherine McNeil. McNeil is one of our all-time favorite models (that face!), and after a two-year hiatus, she returned to the catwalk with a recently trimmed, chin-grazing bob for a limited engagement at the Spring shows, where she walked at Saint Laurent, Kenzo, and Hermès, to name a few. But it was at Marant that we spotted her latest acquisition: an impeccably placed new tattoo. “I got it about six months ago,” the Australian stunner told us of the spiderweb inked onto her inner ear, which plays a starring role in her new, Benny Horne-lensed Vogue Australia cover shoot that also happens to feature the rest of McNeil’s, um, body of work (at last count, we tallied ten visible pieces of skin art). Needless to say, the story’s white wardrobe needed little accessorizing.

Photo: Benny Horne for Vogue Australia, November 2012

“Sexy, Cool” Isabel Marant Beauty, in Eight Easy Steps

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While watching the magic unfold backstage at the shows is endlessly enthralling, it’s always nice to have a few palate-cleansing moments of real, natural beauty—which can be just as inspiring as a dramatic red lip or a slicked-back, side-parted ponytail. That’s why we look forward to Isabel Marant every season, where you can typically find “sexy, cool girls” like Carmen Kass, Anja Rubik, and Aline Weber congregating en masse. And we’re not the only ones (it’s worth pointing out that backstage beauty reportage is an American and British game. It’s rare to see the French editors in the interview hunt, but you can count on them to turn up for Marant’s presentations). Recognizing that it’s this kind of hair and makeup that is often the most enviable—and user-friendly—we thought we’d provide a how-to courtesy of makeup artist Karim Rahman and hairstylist Stephane Lancien, the latter of whom left us with these indelible words this afternoon: “When you feel comfortable, that’s beautiful.”

1. On a clean, freshly built dewy base, apply “a lot” of bronzer underneath the cheekbones, just below the hairline and under the chin to contour the skin. Rahman likes L’Oréal Glam Bronze, but any matte bronzer (read: sparkle-free) will work.

2. Apply a translucent powder to the T-zone (across the forehead, down the bridge of the nose, and on the chin) to manage shine and keep the warmth concentrated to the outline of the face.

3. Curl lashes (skip the mascara) and apply a very thin stroke of black kohl liner along the upper lash line, as close to the lashes as possible, for definition; use an angled brush to diffuse the pigment toward the temple, giving the illusion of an elongated wing without actually drawing one.

4. Brush brows up and fill in slightly if needed.

5. Moisturize lips with a clear balm and then use your finger to press a sheer, brick red lipstick into the center of the mouth, blending outwards. Rahman is a fan of L’Oréal Paris’ new Rouge Caresse Lipstick in no. 602.

6. Spritz sections of hair with L’Oréal Paris Elnett Hair Spray.

7. Apply heat, twisting individual sections as you hit them with the blow-dryer for a slightly textured, tousled wave.

8. Part naturally, pair with a new-era Western shirt, et voilà: chic, personified.