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September 2 2014

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2 posts tagged "Jack McCollough"

EXCLUSIVE: MAC Cosmetics x Proenza Schouler

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Design duo Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez are known for their signature laid-back look on the runway. In other words, a Proenza girl would never pile on the makeup to compliment her striated-wood platform heels or shag coat. She’d simply dab balm on her eyes and lips, or add a hint of blush to her cheeks if she felt the occasion warranted something slightly more “done,” and hit the downtown circuit looking cooler than ever.

Come April, however, the kings of no-makeup makeup are partnering with cosmetic giant MAC to create a limited-edition collection for spring that includes Ombre Face Powders, Lipsticks, Pro Longwear Eye Liners and Lip Pencils, Nail Lacquers, and a 129SE Powder Brush. While all the details haven’t been fully disclosed just yet, I’m expecting to see a lot of neutral shades (reflective of the label’s beauty DNA) punctuated by pops of vibrant color. All products will boast packaging inspired by a past collection, and, judging by the campaign image shot by Mario Sorrenti, I’m placing bets on Spring 2010‘s electric surf- and skater-inspired show.

Photo: Courtesy of MAC Cosmetics

Backstage At Proenza, Where Simple Beauty Is Anything But

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Paul Hanlon was psyched backstage at Proenza Schouler. “This collection is quite exceptional—it’s beyond,” he effused. “These guys are always ahead of the pack.” This will be the hairstylist’s fifth season with Jack McCollough and Lazaro Hernandez, and at this point, he’s got the “Proenza girl” pegged—as well he should; Hanlon’s special brand of downtown cool has helped further define the designers’ woman. “She’s not a good girl, she’s a dangerous girl,” he offered—”whose hair looks like it needs a wash.”

With Kurt Cobain’s iconic, languid locks as his guide, Hanlon set to work on building a “vey stringy” texture, misting hair down with water and using his hands to layer Frédéric Fekkai’s Perfectly Luscious Curl Wave Activating Spray through the lengths. Every girl wore a stretchy latex, leather black cuff to elongate her neck, and rather than pull center-parted strands through the accessory, which he felt would look “too conceptual,” Hanlon had other plans. To give a “natural effect,” he braided under sections to remove extra weight and gathered hair into a ponytail, the base of which he spritzed with Fekkai’s Sheer Hold Hairspray. “We’re going to cut it right before they go out,” he explained of the elastic, tying mesh scarves on top of the cuffs and around the ponytail to further set the resulting indentation. Hanlon added a final “electric” element by using his fingers to rub the crown of the head for a frizzy, static effect, which created a further dichotomy between his contribution and the clothes. “You’ve got these incredibly expensive fabrics and hair that’s just whatever,” he said—a directive that came right from McCollough and Hernandez. “They’re really good at describing hair,” Hanlon attests. “I’m sure Lazaro was a hairdresser in a former life.”

Makeup artist Diane Kendal is a similarly longstanding member of team Proenza, and she too is well versed at channeling the house’s “urban feel,” which reliably calls for strong brows, smudged lids, and clean skin. Using MAC Studio Finish Concealer where needed, Kendal applied a nude-pink lipstick on the apples of the cheeks to get a sheer flush with a bit of sheen. Lower lash lines were then lined with its Eye Pencil in Coffee, which was also placed in the crease and blended over lids for a subtle stain. Skipping the mascara, Kendal’s finishing touch came via her signature “boyish” brows, which were filled in and brushed up. Even “real girl”-inspired beauty requires a few extra steps.

Photo: Luca Cannonieri / GoRunway.com