37 posts tagged "James Kaliardos"
Backstage at DVF there was talk of more than what sits solely on the surface. “Diane is very socially aware, as you can see with the casting, which is very diverse—unlike many designers during fashion week,” said makeup artist James Kaliardos. To reflect each model’s individuality and let her inner beauty shine through, he opted for sheer, creamy textures in warm, neutral colors like copper and sand. After evening out the complexion and using translucent powder on the T-zone to cancel shine from the lights on the runway, Kaliardos “cheated black liner in the [upper] lash bed,” which provided definition and created the illusion of fuller fringe. He then wrapped the eyes with a blend of two cream shadows from the MAC Spring ’14 Trend Forecast Palette—New in Season and Cultivating Chic—to create a subtle and shimmery copper hue, then coated lashes with Haute & Naughty Lash mascara. The tops of cheekbones were patted with Casual Colour in Keep It Loose for a soft glow, and lips were slicked with either a peachy nude or taupe gloss, depending on skin tone. “You can’t compare someone from Africa to someone from Sweden—they’ll always look different, but both are beautiful,” he added.
The hair was kept quite simple, as the designer was inspired by how the models arrived at their fittings with loose, lived-in waves, explained Orlando Pita. He started with a middle part and worked in BioSilk Volumizing Therapy Styling Foam, Texturizing Powder, or Root Lifter (depending on hair type) before blow-drying to create texture. Next he went in with a curling iron and bent the hair under and over the barrel to form his signature “S” patterns (think: Botticelli waves for the modern woman). Strands were lightly glossed over with Silk Therapy to cancel any frizz or flyaways.
And while the look as a whole was certainly scaled back, Diane von Furstenberg definitely made a strong statement about beauty. I think Kaliardos summed it up perfectly: “Each girl is her own woman.”
French wild child and novelist Francoise Sagan, who drove race cars, kept bad boyfriends, and ended up in rehab in Saint-Tropez, inspired the clothes in the collection. She was essentially the original Lindsay Lohan “…except she could write,” explained Brian Wolk, one half of the Ruffian design duo. Another author and bad girl, this one British, inspired the makeup and hair: Lady Caroline Blackwood.
As a nod to the beauty muse and the sixties, makeup artist James Kaliardos circled the eye in a gray shade from MAC called March Mist with a 213 brush, and added shadow, dubbed Particularly Pretty (both colors from the Spring/Summer ’14 Trend Forecast Eye Palette), to both the middle of the lid and the cheeks as a highlighter. Four individual lashes were placed on the center of the upper lash line to open up the eye, and Haute & Naughty Mascara was brushed on both top and bottom. “It’s quite lash-y, but still a soft look,” explained the face painter. Lips were dabbed with a soft apricot called Trendy Twist (also from a Spring/Summer ’14 Trend Forecast Palette).
Hair pro Nick Irwin applied Catwalk by TIGI Curlesque Lightweight Mousse to the halo area before blow-drying and adding a deep side part, which he set with Sleek Mystique Look-Lock Hairspray. To create the appearance of a set that had fallen out, he wrapped sections around a curling rod and then finger-combed.
“We wanted to bring minimalism to nail art this season,” said Wolk, imploring finger painter Cheryl Natoli and their own brand of circular nail sticker-stencils (available soon on Birchbox) to get the signature Ruffian crescent shape. The three lacquers in their newly launched Crowdsourced Collection were used around the edges of a nude-colored nail bed, extending all the way to squared-off tips. They also debuted a treatment, base coat, matte finisher, as well as black, scented polish-remover towelettes (arriving later this fall) backstage.
Friday’s pummeling rain aside, summer is here, which means fewer layers, more time spent outside, and a host of beach weekends to come, if we’re lucky. But the season isn’t all about tanning opportunities and the tropical-themed cocktails that often come with them. Summer is often best spent reenergizing to help feel fully rejuvenated for Fall, and this year, we’ve asked some of our favorite fashion and beauty insiders to dish on how they unwind in the warm weather. For James Kaliardos, makeup artist and cofounder of Visionaire, V, and VMan, the next few months are best spent in New York. “The city begins to spark again, and the electricity of the melting pot always makes me smile as the temperature rises,” explains Kaliardos. And besides, he isn’t the kind of person to “laze about on vacation” anyway. “Life is too short to be not doing anything, and I can’t help but be constantly working away in my head—art ideas, makeup concepts.” There are a few places the backstage regular reserves for relaxation, though. Read on below for his picks, and click here for forty-plus other tips for soaking up the sun in style.
“To stimulate my mind, I love visiting the archaeological sites of Greece—the Oracle at Delphi, the museums of Athens. In terms of the body, for total relaxation and rejuvenation in a setting that always inspires me, my go-to is The Post Ranch Inn in Big Sur, California. Nestled above the clouds of the geologically youngest place on Earth, this is the most perfect, romantic, and holistically beautiful place to get away from it all. I always book a long daily massage in the tree-house spa that looks out over the forest.”
The Post Ranch Inn, 47900 California 1, Big Sur, CA, (831) 667-2200.
Day at the Museum
“If I can’t get away—and, thankfully, I love New York!—my summer ritual is a bike ride up to the Met to discover another treasure. As I ride, I always notice something I hadn’t seen before—good for the body and the mind! My tip: the incredible (and ahead-of-its-time) painting of a bat in the recently opened Art of the Arab Lands wing. Just brilliant!”
The Metropolitan Museum of Art, 1000 Fifth Avenue, New York, NY 10028;
Intelligent Nutrients. I love their spray elixirs [http://www.intelligentnutrients.com/shop-by-collection/multi-functional-aromas/certified-organic-intelligent-nutrients-nurturetm-take-comfort], which invigorate the spirit and smell delicious. I mix them, spraying different scents in different areas of my body or clothes.”
Intelligent Nutrients Aromatics, $68, www.intelligentnutrients.com.
Last Spring, blue made a strong case for eye makeup color of the season, as liners and shadows in shades that ranged from aqua and turquoise to cobalt and navy turned up on the runways in full force. And it’s proved a hard habit to kick for Fall, too, as makeup artists like Diane Kendal and Hannah Murray have turned to midnight and robin’s-egg iterations of the hue at shows like Jason Wu and Topshop Unique, respectively. But there’s another color that’s staking a claim to the season, and it’s a rather unexpected one at that. “There’s a sort of seventies feeling to it,” James Kaliardos said of MAC’s forthcoming Rusted Red cream eye shadow that he blended onto lids backstage at Diane von Furstenberg, which followed a similar move by Charlotte Tilbury at Prabal Gurung, where she used the ruddy color to create a fresh, young, stained effect on eyes. In their more saturated outings, cranberry lids have showed up at Cynthia Rowley, courtesy of Romy Soleimani and her trusty compact of Stila Eyeshadow in Pigalle; at Altuzarra, where Tom Pecheux swiped MAC’s metallic raspberry eye shadow in Loves Lure underneath models’ lower lash lines for a “spooky” feel; and just yesterday at Gucci, where Pat McGrath borrowed a deep claret from Frida Giannini’s collection and turned it into a greasy, bold eye, replete with bleached brows for a molten finish. We have a feeling it won’t be the last we’ll be seeing of the color in Europe.
Wearing makeup to the beach is a questionable move, although if you grew up in a NorCal surf town, like Rodarte’s Laura and Kate Mulleavy, it was probably also hard to avoid. “It’s the idea of mascara that has been applied on the beach,” James Kaliardos said of the makeup look he created for the sister duo’s Fall Santa Cruz-themed collection. “It’s a bit messy,” he continued, “as if it fell onto [models'] faces.”
Dusting lids with NARS Single Eye Shadow in Bengali, a matte dark brown shade that Kaliardos swept underneath the lower lash line as well, he worked its forthcoming Eye Paint in Mesopotamia, a similar shade, through the crease to provide a little slip. Then, taking NARS’ as-yet-unreleased Larger Than Life Long-Wear Eyeliner in Via De’Martelli, a dark chocolate, he dotted on a chunky, “speckled” bit of pigment for a haphazard effect. NARS Larger Than Life Volumizing Mascara added additional dimension to lashes while its Velvet Matte Lip Pencil in Belle de Jour gave pouts a subdued nude finish.
Odile Gilbert was going for a “rocker princess” look, which she achieved by building a “cool, undone” texture into models’ manes. Prepping hair with John Frieda Frizz-Ease Curl Reviver Styling Mousse, Gilbert took strands through a two-inch curling iron to create a loose bend. Brushing out the waves for a more natural appearance, she created interwoven plaits on either side of the head, which were joined together in a rosette that segued into a single braid in the back. Using Frizz-Ease Hair Serum Thermal Protection Formula on the ends to create piecey separation, Gilbert crowned select models with barbed-wire headbands, including Nadja Bender, Irina Kravchenko, Kate King, and Tilda Lindstam.